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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So I had to drain the cooling system. I studied everything that I would need to know about this project beforehand. Being somewhat mechanically inclined, I decided to undertake the project. I can't seem to bleed the system effectively. What is more, the 'idiot' light telling me that the motor is overheating comes on before the fan, which does not come on at all. I tested the fan when everything was apart and it worked. Anyway, might anyone be able to give me some tips on this procedure so that I might be able to figure out why I must fail so miserably.:banghead I am really bummed because I don't want to damage the bike I love so much!

Please help.

Thanks, Dace
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
not that I could see. the instructions that I have say to use the bleeder bolt on top of the thermostat housing.
 

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There is a bleeder bolt on the LH side, close to the clutch slave. Look for a steel pipe and you'll see a bleed/drain bolt at the lowest point of the pipe's bend. You undo it slightly until some coolant flows and tight it back.
 

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Actually, on my GPz 1100 (which is pretty similar to the zx11) there are three bleeder screws. They need to be done in this order: As Claude said, at the bottom of the engine near the water pump, is the small bolt in a metal pipe that connects up to the rubber coolant hose; then (take off the gas tank) between the frame, at the top of the cylinder head, is another coolant hose with a similar bolt pointing up at you; lastly is the third similar bolt up at the thermostat housing. You need to loosen these bolts (in that order) until you get a good coolant stream, then tighten them up 'till snug. Make sure you watch the coolant level in the rad and the overflow tank, so you're not sucking air....otherwise you'll have to start again. A good reason your fan isn't kicking on is possibly due to the fan switch being stuck in an air bubble.


DW
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
thanks guys, I'll look into the other bleed nipples
 

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there is a bleed screw in the water pump right above the water pipe entering the pump.(upper center of water pump cover)this one must be bled or the pump will hold alot of air.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
There is only one bleed nipple on the bike for the cooling system. I did find a screw in the end of the water pipe that comes from the pump to the block. I also did see the screw above the inlet pipe to the pump, but I thought it was just the mounting bolt for the pipe.
 

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I only found on on my 2000 zx-11. It was at the T-stat housing....I'm not saying it's not more than one on there but that's alll I could find. I've had no troubles since bleeding the system a month ago.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I only found on on my 2000 zx-11. It was at the T-stat housing....I'm not saying it's not more than one on there but that's alll I could find. I've had no troubles since bleeding the system a month ago.
the way I understand it, the zx-11 and the zrx1100 have the same engine. the zrx is tuned down a bit. When you bled your system, was it straight forward? Mine has not been. Maybe it is getting too hot and the coolant is starting to boil because it is not under pressure? I don't know. But for something that should be clear and easy to do, for me it was not. Hmmm...:headscratch
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I just finished the project. What I found is that the second time things were much easier. Always the case. I looked into the two other points that water was supposed to be bled from. The one on the pump only holds down the inlet pipe. The block feed pipe bolt released coolant. Coolant came right out of the thermostat bleed nipple. Done. I am letting the bike cool to see where the reservoir level is. I think I am good (hope).

Dace
 
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