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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I adjusted the idle speed to about 1k in hopes of getting rid of that "clunk" into first gear from a stop. Didnt work

When the bike is turned on from a cold start, the rpms slowly rise to about 2k while warming up. After a 45-60 seconds or so, they start to fall back into the normal idle range.

I started noticing this after I adjusted the idle but is that the normal warm up procedure? I dont recall the bike going up to 2k
 

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1: Your idle shouldn't be that low.
2: That "clunk" is normal, and every bike does it.
3: Every bike I have ever ridden (with a choke) will start out low when cold and choked and jump up to 2k, 3k, even sometimes 4k RPM as it warms up. Then I just back the choke off a little bit so it comes back down. Rinse and repeat until warm enough to ride.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
^Its not that low anymore since it did nothing for the clunk. Its back around 1100

Quite a few threads mentioned lowering it to 1k got rid of the clunk...o well

so what im seeing is normal...good to know
 

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Quinton Phuckin Tarantino
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I agree with what's posted ^^^. Some bikes you can adjust some of the clunk out but not the 14. I noticed on my bikes its worse when It's cold . The oil is thick when the engine is cold causing extra drag inside the clutch assembly the result is a harder neutral to first shift . As it warms up the oil thins out and the shift quality gets better .
 

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clunk

That is pretty normal for the bike. You can adjust it a little bit by adjusting the play in the chain and check the rubber cush drive for wear. We on another forum (klrworld.com) pull the rear wheel and shim the cush drive with aluminum parts of beer\soda cans. It works really well and helps the clunk a bit.
 

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After warm-up, I pull the clutch lever in and give it a couple quick throttle blips before shifting into gear.
 

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I let my 14 idle until the revs drop down to normal idle RPM. At that point the temp gauge is up around 2 bands. It doesn't hardly clicks or jumps at all at that point.
When it is cold, it is going to click when you shift into 1st!
 

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No different on the '12 model. Quite a hefty clunk compared to the R1 and even the Ducati 1198 I just sold! The '12 model also has an 'automatic idle adjustment' so you can't manually wind it up or down. Must say that neutral is VERY easy to find at standstill though compared to the Yam and the Duke.
 

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When I start it when cold it goes up to 2 grand.That is the cold start system which is normal.It then goes down to 1050.I set it with my PC and laptop.I then go riding.Every big bike I had clunked going to start.
Craig
 

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1: Your idle shouldn't be that low.
2: That "clunk" is normal, and every bike does it.
3: Every bike I have ever ridden (with a choke) will start out low when cold and choked and jump up to 2k, 3k, even sometimes 4k RPM as it warms up. Then I just back the choke off a little bit so it comes back down. Rinse and repeat until warm enough to ride.
The Brough Superior SS100 didn't clunk going into low gear.
 

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The Brough Superior SS100 didn't clunk going into low gear.
Bruff Sups had chokes. ZX-14s don't. The fast idle is controlled by the ECU. If you let it run until the idle settles down, it's ready to go. When warmed, set the idle adjustment to 1100 rpm to minimize 'clunk'.
 

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The 14 manual suggests that you let the bike warm up for 2 minutes even if you are already warmed up and stop for gas or Doritos. Slosh that oil all over that puppy.
With a choked bike like my Katana 1100, you manually apply the choke and as soon as the idle starts to ramp up, you back off the choke to make the fuel less rich.
I assume that is what the ZX is doing electronically for us. Most geared cars do the same thing. They go up to 1500-2000 then back down to ~900rpm when it has satisfied it's parameters.
 

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Quinton Phuckin Tarantino
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There are very few bikes I have ridden through the years that have not "clunked" into gear especially when they are cold . The big kawi's trans is also big along with a big clutch , it's not the silky smoothest trans ever but it is tough imho . I'll deal with the "clunk" as long as I keep dealing with it for many miles down the road .
 

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The Brough Superior SS100 didn't clunk going into low gear.
That's your example lol?

That barely counts. I just (as in less than 15 minutes ago) got off of two different ATVs that both clunk, and one of them doesn't even have a clutch. My Suzuki, Honda, and both Kawis clunked. My Uncles road king and co-workers sportster clunk. The SV1k I rode last summer clunked. The 09 6R clunked.

Though if you do have one of those, please share pictures.
 

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That's your example lol?

That barely counts. I just (as in less than 15 minutes ago) got off of two different ATVs that both clunk, and one of them doesn't even have a clutch. My Suzuki, Honda, and both Kawis clunked. My Uncles road king and co-workers sportster clunk. The SV1k I rode last summer clunked. The 09 6R clunked.

Though if you do have one of those, please share pictures.


 

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Nice...Is that burnt dead skin on the top pipe or did the pipes "blue" completely differently? :smile
 

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The Beast Increases Idle To 1,500 RPM To Warm Itself.. Then Settles Down At An Even 1,000 RPM Not Much Of A Clunk At All For Me..
 

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Nice...Is that burnt dead skin on the top pipe or did the pipes "blue" completely differently? :smile
The shorter rear pipe and the rear cylinder, being masked from direct airflow, produces more heat, thusly more pipe bluing. Believe it or not, they actually had and wore leather riding gear back then. Shorts and flip-flops were invented later.:lol
 
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