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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi guys.

So I am in the process of installing a new clutch on my 07 ZX14.

I was looking in the manual and saw this below. Those 2 spring washers go in first then I build the clutch pack.

But on some videos on youtube those spring washers go in after a clutch plate and steel plate, so now I am really confused.

Heres the images:

07 manual shows this.


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Youtube however shows this. As you can see in this images, those spring washers are coming out with a few plates still in there.

Wheel Tire Automotive tire Tread Motor vehicle


Can someone clarify which way the plates go so I don't mess this up?

Also do we know if it went in differently on a different model? Maybe it changed on the latter years?

Wanted to ask before I break something lol.

Thanks :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Mine didn't come out like that at all :O mine came out as per the diagram.

All I can think is maybe the later models it changed? Or maybe with the trak king plates it changes?
 

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Anti Judder springs in first, They are different so make sure you get them in the right way.
Then the first friction plate has a larger inner so it goes over the springs allowing them to contact the next Steel Plate.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks Kev/Slorg (y)
 
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Discussion Starter · #8 · (Edited)
Ah bless you Kev that's really helpful! Appreciate you taking time to upload that for me, I can see the direction of the springs now.

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So I've just been making a list of the torque settings that I am going to need.

STEP 1 – Sump Plug & Oil Filter
Sump Plug: 30 nm
Oil Filter: 31 nm (apply a bead of oil to the rubber ring)

STEP 2 – Clutch Springs & Clutch Cover
Clutch Plate Spring Bolts 8.8nm
Clutch Cover Mounting Bolts 9.8nm

STEP 3 – Clutch Slave Cylinder
Clutch Slave Cylinder Bolts Non-specified. Just nip up.
Clutch Hose Banjo Bolt 25nm
Clutch Slave Cylinder Bleed Valve: 7.8 nm

And I have my plates soaking in oil over night, now this is the bit that's worrying me.. The oil. But it's too late now as the plates are soaking in it, but I was shocked to see it red in colour. Going to be a weird oil sight glass with red oil in it.

So my local store is called Halfords and they sell motorcycle oil and not too much to choose from. I put my reg in and it said this was the right oil for my "car" hmm I'm sure they meant motorbike lol but I was worried about it saying Fully Synth as I have just binned that V300 stuff that was v expensive oil. I then looked at the Castrol Power 1 non-racing oil and it said that was not suitable for my motorcycle, so I didn't really have any choice but to go with the one that said it was suitable.

I did read an Amazon review about this oil and someone asked would it be ok for his ZX14 and the answer was yes from the supplier, so I just hope this is OK.

I have a feeling the slave cylinder was at fault here as there seems to be more meat on the old plates than the new ones. I think my "friend" who pumped my clutch maybe 100 times pushed the slave cylinder piston out too much and it wouldn't retract fully, because I was also complaining about my lever coming back to the bar too far to, this would make sense, so maybe nothing wrong with my old oil or clutch in the first place and I have just spend £570 for nothing. Mind you, it won't need to be done again for a while.

The lesson I have learned here is always check the cheapest thing first, the slave cylinder, but to be honest, I didn't really know what a slave cylinder was until this saga started lol so it's all a learning process that we all have to go through. I am just grateful for you guys on hand because without your experience I ain't sure I would have got this back on the road on my own.

So hopefully tomorrow I am set to start and put the bike back together again with any luck. I am just waiting on a stainless clutch line to arrive to do the brand new clutch slave cylinder, and if it slips after that I'll totally give up lol.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Nope I didn't measure them before they went in the oil. But they were all wrapped Kawasaki Original Factory Parts, just shocked me as they looked like they had less plate on than the ones I took out. Maybe they will beef up a bit after they have absorbed some oil.
 

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I have a feeling the slave cylinder was at fault here as there seems to be more meat on the old plates than the new ones. I think my "friend" who pumped my clutch maybe 100 times pushed the slave cylinder piston out too much and it wouldn't retract fully, because I was also complaining about my lever coming back to the bar too far to, this would make sense, so maybe nothing wrong with my old oil or clutch in the first place and I have just spend £570 for nothing. Mind you, it won't need to be done again for a while.

The lesson I have learned here is always check the cheapest thing first, the slave cylinder, but to be honest, I didn't really know what a slave cylinder was until this saga started lol so it's all a learning process that we all have to go through.
Don't let it bother you. Those are rookie numbers. I regularly end up with boxes full of unopened oem spare parts, and justify keeping them "just in case".

All that matters is the job get done right and works how you expect. (y)
 
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