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Discussion Starter #1
I did my first clutch today.:eek:hno Thought I followed the manual step by step, but obviously not. I got it all back together and took it for a test ride down the block and it slips like crazy. worse than the old one. I'm going to tear it apart next weekend and try again, any tips or advice would be greatly appreciated.
 

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Going to need a bit more info, for instance what did you do, change, etc, tell us exactly what you changed or did not change, and the answers will start slipping in!
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I used an EBC SRK kit, replacing the friction and separator plates, along with new, slightly stiffer springs. I started with a friction plate rotating in separator plates. ending with a friction plate one notch over. I soaked the friction plates for about 5 hours in fresh oil before install. I slipped on the pressure plate, installed the new springs and torqued everything according the manual. Filled it with fresh oil and took it for a test ride down the block. The clutch doesn't engage until almost full release of the lever and when i hit the throttle it just revs up and slips. Seems to shift fine though.

I had started taking everything apart last weekend while waiting for the clutch and sprocket set I ordered. I had the clutch slave off and hangin and sometime during the week I think one of the kids must have pulled on the clutch lever cause friday i found a puddle of fluid under the bike and an empty clutch res. I pushed the slave in by hand and bled it real well today. could this be the problem??
 

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It's best to gravity bleed the clutch. If you indeed have the clutch plates orientated correct then re-bleed the clutch.

Josh
 

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If he's slippin it's not engaging properly and bleeding the clutch isn' going to do any good. What you need to do is take the stack back out and compare the height with the old stack. You should be within 3mm of the old stack due to wear. Now when installing the pressure plate you should be able to push the clutch push rod by hand with the pressure plate and have about 3mm of bolt threaded before the spring catches. If you are still slipping then either you forgot a piece or put a piece in backwards. Recheck the pushrod and forcing cap on the slave cylinder side and make sure that the "throw out bearing" is seated properly in the pressure plate on the clutch side. I know that little bearing likes to fall out and sometimes go is crooked and wont let the clutch engage properly.
 

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BTW, you only need to soak the plates for about 10 seconds. IE; they only need to be wet. Just a tip. Put them in oil, take the bike apart, and they will have soaked more than enough.
 

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Taking it apart seems like a good idea, usually its something small. Did you wipe the plates before you put them in, or were they dripping with oil and now sticking?
 

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after a second look, the only possible reason i can see for the last disc being offset is to prevent damage to the steel plates if the friction plates completely wear out. they would bottom out causing the clutch to slip... if this is true than not compling with this procedure would not cause the clutch to slip
 

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The last friction being off-set locks everything in place. If it is lined up with the rest the drum just spins.

Not sure how much of a discussion there needs to becaincecevery single motorcycle clutch is done this way.

Josh
 

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Discussion Starter #14
as far as soak time the instructions for the clutch on the box say to soak for at least a few hours. and i pulled the plates straight from the soak and slapped them together dripping wet. that shouldn't matter since its a wet clutch, right? its always dripping wet.
 

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Right... Don't worry about the soaking part.

Keep in mind Squidge started riding a bike just last year.

Josh
 

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Right... Don't worry about the soaking part.

Keep in mind Squidge started riding a bike just last year.

Josh
Lol... where the fuck did you get this information from?

:crackup


Ive done clutches before broham. And I most certainly did not just start riding last year.


You do not need to soak clutches for more than a few minutes... Trust me on this. Or don't, I don't give a fuck. While you are wasting 24 hours waiting on your new clutch to soak, I will be done and over with it and riding the bike.

Do you honestly think ANY shop in the world soaks the clutch plates overnight? Fuck no. Not even for "a few hours". When I bought my 7 (had a bad clutch in it before they sold it to me), they told me the clutch just showed up via UPS and to come pick the bike up in 2-3 hours. I rode it an hour home in heavy traffic.

I put a clutch in a Hawnduh (car - I didn't pull the transmission though), a couple 4 wheelers, and one bike. Never had to soak shit for any longer than a few minutes. I never said you didn't have to "soak" them. I said you don't have to soak them overnight. Get a pan, take some new oil, put the shit in there... Then start taking the old one out. By the time you need the new stuff, they are more than ready.
 

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LOL...

It's not a big deal, just throw them in a pan with some oil... remove cover, badda bing badd boom install plates and wrap the bitch up.

Does it hurt to soak them overnight? No.

Does soaking them from a few seconds to 5 minutes hurt? No.

I wouldn't install them bone dry though. Maybe I would. But probably not. maybe just let the bike idle a few moments to get things juicy.

Either way, if the clutch is slipping:

The clutch isn't fully engaging.
The last plate wasn't installed 1-notch over
The springs were somehow installed incorrectly.


Josh
 

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Now now fellas,were all 7 owners here:cheers
 
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