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Just remove cover, clean up surfaces and refit making sure you tighten up bolts in opposites so the cover presses evenly creating the best seal. No leaks and hey presto. Just remember to refit the clutch arm into the basket. Pretty straight forward job


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Discussion Starter #4
Just remove cover, clean up surfaces and refit making sure you tighten up bolts in opposites so the cover presses evenly creating the best seal. No leaks and hey presto. Just remember to refit the clutch arm into the basket. Pretty straight forward job

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Good to know, will do, thanks gman !
 

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Discussion Starter #5
So, took the fairing apart today, checked under the bike with a torch light for where the leak comes from.
Seems that there is a bunch of hardened fat right behind the water overflow bottle, a bit higher, don't see anywhere else where the leak could come from.
Will on Friday change the gasket, but anyone has another idea ?
 

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So, took the fairing apart today, checked under the bike with a torch light for where the leak comes from.
Seems that there is a bunch of hardened fat right behind the water overflow bottle, a bit higher, don't see anywhere else where the leak could come from.
Will on Friday change the gasket, but anyone has another idea ?
My E/F radiator overflow bottles are on the left. I think there was some leakage one time from the valve cover gasket, that rubber membrane that's still OEM, but nothing since. Both bikes have been ship-shape. And both are still on their original clutches. That's not saying much with regards to the F1, but I'm overly impressed with the E.

If I had some advice from experience, I'd offer it. :dunno
 

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Discussion Starter #7
My E/F radiator overflow bottles are on the left. I think there was some leakage one time from the valve cover gasket, that rubber membrane that's still OEM, but nothing since. Both bikes have been ship-shape. And both are still on their original clutches. That's not saying much with regards to the F1, but I'm overly impressed with the E.

If I had some advice from experience, I'd offer it. :dunno
Thanks E1, mine (overflow bottle) is on the right side, covering the clutch.
I am not too worry about it.
It was not a major leak, but was worried about getting some oil on my back tire...not good at all you can imagine !
I will undo the clutch gasket tomorrow and see. probably that the OEM has to be changed after 17 years of use, not worried, will inform tomorrow and post some pics...
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
So guys, I did the clutch gasket yesterday, the bike is pretty ready for the 1st of April, a couple of cleaning still to do.

Here are the promised pics (click on them to enlarge) :

The draining of the clutch oil. I used a carton board to have it dripped in a bucket, as I only wanted to empty the clutch container.

1. Where the drip was coming from :

2. The emptying of the clutch lodge :

3. The uncovered clutch :

4. The polishing of the inside of the cover. Here, the old sticking gasket was removed with a very sharp knife-like instrument, being careful not to get any scratches on to it, then, it was polished manually with very thin sand paper :


5. The cover with the new gasket is placed back on the bike :

6. Now just the fairing needs to be put back on the 9, it's a bit of a bitch to do that alone, but make sure you place under the bike a cover or a carton. It will make it easier to slide the fairing under, and will prevent scratches.



The last thing I wanted to point out, is that the replacement of the clutch cover screwing should be done "cross wise", and the pressure applied on the screws of +/- 10 N (Newtons - 1 N = 9.81 m/s²). Now where it is important, is that when you are done re-screwing all the screws, wait between 15 to 30 minutes so that the gasket can rest and "relax". Then, you should do the step of applying again the same pressure on all the nuts to make sure that the pressure is the same everywhere and correctly applied. I used a special instrument which torques when the pressure is reached, so you know you are good.

Now, the meaning of this post is not to re-invent the wheel, but maybe, and this by also posting some pics, only done to help people who have never done it before.

Hope it can be used for other people future use.

nomeg1
 

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I take my clutch cover off every weekend to check clutch plates after races. Havent replaced a gasket in 10 years. Actually have 2 with the spacer for my slider clutch, and I go around clockwise too. But who reads directions..lol
 

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So guys, I did the clutch gasket yesterday, the bike is pretty ready for the 1st of April, a couple of cleaning still to do.

The last thing I wanted to point out, is that the replacement of the clutch cover screwing should be done "cross wise", and the pressure applied on the screws of +/- 10 N [/B] (Newtons - 1 N = 9.81 m/s²). [/B]
nomeg1
Good reference for future jobs, with pics and everything! Digna DIY. Just a little repair: 1N isn't 9.81m/s2. Because 9.81 m/s2 is the resultant acceleration from the gravity force. So the apple gets 9.81 meters per second quickier that it was at last second (at least in vaccum). 1 Newton is 0.2248 pounds of force, or about 102 grams of force. 10 N rougly 1kg of torque.:nerd:

I'm Not picking on your foot, since I'm sure you know that and just made a small mistake.:dblthumb2:
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I take my clutch cover off every weekend to check clutch plates after races. Havent replaced a gasket in 10 years. Actually have 2 with the spacer for my slider clutch, and I go around clockwise too. But who reads directions..lol
Well, my 9 is going to be next month 17 years old, and I believe it is the first time it has ever been changed, but hey, good for you.
You are not racing with a fairing I take ?

Good reference for future jobs, with pics and everything! Digna DIY. Just a little repair: 1N isn't 9.81m/s2. Because 9.81 m/s2 is the resultant acceleration from the gravity force. So the apple gets 9.81 meters per second quickier that it was at last second (at least in vaccum). 1 Newton is 0.2248 pounds of force, or about 102 grams of force. 10 N rougly 1kg of torque.:nerd:

I'm Not picking on your foot, since I'm sure you know that and just made a small mistake.:dblthumb2:
No sweat, and you are right (I gave the unit of 1 G (gravity) : 9.81 m/s² which is the earth down-force acceleration (the apple !)), actually, 1 N : 1 KG m/s² (kilo * meter / squ. seconds), or 1 N is the force of Earth's gravity on a mass of about 102 g = (1⁄9.81 kg), or ≈ 0.10197 kp (kilogram-force).
And yes, I hope others will profit from the pics...
 

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Sorry, didn't mean to sound like a jerk. Yes, I do have full fairing on it. Once you take it off, it becomes old hand. Tip it to side so oil doesn't come out and pull everything off. Hope it all went well for you and got the leak fixed.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Sorry, didn't mean to sound like a jerk. Yes, I do have full fairing on it. Once you take it off, it becomes old hand. Tip it to side so oil doesn't come out and pull everything off. Hope it all went well for you and got the leak fixed.
No sweat dude, I understood what you meant.
Old hand ? I think it's a bitch...:grump:
Yes, all went fine (pretty easy stuff, just remain clean), now, next week Tuesday I will fire it up for the first time this year, and start my season !
 

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Discussion Starter #14
OK guys, getting there...
Fired the 9 yesterday not without help of a booster, as the battery was too weak to crank the engine.
Did 1 mistake, did not close the gas income during winter nor emptied the carbs, so my carbs were sort of a bit stuck, probably from this Bio-ethanol stuff they add in the gas today over here. Rattled a bit, let is run for 15', and all was fine.
After the clutch change, I leveled the oil, but as foreseen, will have to add a touch Tuesday when I will be doing my 2014 inaugural ride.
Can't wait, and they announce a full sun-shining day with t° around 15/17° C (59/63° F), Yeehaaa...
Let's the good times roll...
 

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Let us the good times roll?

The hydrocarbon fumes from the oil are making you loopy Nomeg.

Nice right-up and pictorial!
 

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Discussion Starter #16 (Edited)
Let us the good times roll?

The hydrocarbon fumes from the oil are making you loopy Nomeg.

Nice right-up and pictorial!
Hu ? wrongly written ?

No, ain't sniffed no fumes, long time since...don't need to, got my family, and the 9 ! :animated-smileys-lo

Thanks !

PS : by the way, the clutch bolts were tightened with a pressure of 12 N, and not 10.
 

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Hu ? wrongly written ?

No, ain't sniffed no fumes, long time since...don't need to, got my family, and the 9 ! :animated-smileys-lo

Thanks !

PS : by the way, the clutch bolts were tightened with a pressure of 12 N, and not 10.
Uh-huh. Let's = 'Let us...'
It's = It is.
Possessive form of 'its' is always i-t-s without an apostrophe, as in 'its skin.'

No big. Just correcting it because it sounded oddly funny and because I think I learn something when I look up and explain why.

12 Nm is like nearly nothing, right? I'd err on the side of caution with the clutch and go with 12 instead of 10.
 

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Discussion Starter #18 (Edited)
Uh-huh. Let's = 'Let us...'
It's = It is.
Possessive form of 'its' is always i-t-s without an apostrophe, as in 'its skin.'

No big. Just correcting it because it sounded oddly funny and because I think I learn something when I look up and explain why.

12 Nm is like nearly nothing, right? I'd err on the side of caution with the clutch and go with 12 instead of 10.
Yeah, well my mistake,I knew it, but the English teacher at the Uni was a bit*h...
12 N-m is what my friend mechanic suggested, more was almost impossible to tight the nuts anymore, as he started w/ 15 N-m.

But yes, I agree, it doesn't sound much as 12 N-m is only 1.22 kilogram-force meter or 8.85 pound-force foot (checked a conversion chart !)

Went today to the workshop to check the oil level. Was a bit low still (from the loss of uncovering the clutch), but now, I filled it up a bit too much, goes over the middle level, not good & shite !
We'll let it run Tuesday, and then see. If ever, my friend has an oil-vacuum-sucker.
He doesn't like it to be too high he said !
 
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