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I'm pretty sure you all have read one day or another a report about chain maintenance. But here's another one. What is unusual on this one is that they recommend to replace sprockets only with every second chain... Just want to share the info...

I posted a part of it below.


http://www.canyonchasers.net/shop/generic/chain.php

A common misconception with chain replacement is to change you chain and sprockets at the same time. This is only true if you use aluminum sprockets. If you use steel or factory sprockets, the rule of thumb is two chains to one set of sprockets. That is, of course, if you replace your chains before they are so bad they damage the steel sprockets. Unless you wish to change your gearing when your chain wears out, simply replace the chain. A good chain costs about $100, and a rear sprocket can run around $75 or more. Even if the second chain wears out a little bit faster than the first chain, you'll still end up saving a grundle of money without compromising safety.
 

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Can't speak for anyone else, but as I use a scotoiler on the ZZR my chain was in pretty good condition even after 3 years, but regardless of that I replaced both the chain and sprockets as the cost was not that great, and if you only do it once every 3 years the cost per mile is negligible to make it almost pointless to try and save a few pounds. Just my opinion though.
 

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I think the general rule of thumb is to change the chain and sprockets together after 10000-15000km (7k-10k miles) depending on how hard you ride!!!

Keep it lubed with good quality wax and it will last long. Also important to keep the correct chain tension! A loose or too tight chain will wear much quicker!!
 

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I'm one of those that swear by them, after I took my chain off at 10k it looked and felt as good as new, in fact a neighbour took it to use on a bike project he is building! At the end of the day its one less thing to worry about when you have a correctly fitted scottoiler, you just jump on and ride, no chain lube no hassle. I personally had the touring kit behind the number plate and a dual injector on the sprocket and that worked for me, in fact the oil reservoir is still half full!
 

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The way I understand chain wear is the pins begin to wear against the plates once the grease inside the rollers wears out or leaks out due to damaged or worn O rings. This causes the pin to pin distance to increase, but typically over a relatively short length of the chain. This is what leads to "tight spots".

The sprockets and chain wear as a system. Changing a chain without changing the sprocket will certainly contribute to premature chain wear if there were any tight spots on the old chain. Those tight spots will mean that your sprocket is only engaging on one link of the chain at some point.

The ZX-11 has one of the very best OEM chains I've ever run across. 30k miles is not at all unusual given good maintenance.
 

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Hello there, I am a new member just trying to find out more information on my bike. I know I need a new chain. And seeing that this thread is on chains I was hoping someone would be able to suggest 'anything' that could help me through this process. I could easily take my bike into a mechanic like some girls might but I want to try to do things on my own. So....any suggestions? I need to buy the chain first I figure....then what? Arggg.....

I ride a '01 Kawi ZX6R with 30+ Kms. Any suggestions can only be helpful suggestions so thank you in advanced :)
 

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Hello there, I am a new member just trying to find out more information on my bike. I know I need a new chain. And seeing that this thread is on chains I was hoping someone would be able to suggest 'anything' that could help me through this process. I could easily take my bike into a mechanic like some girls might but I want to try to do things on my own. So....any suggestions? I need to buy the chain first I figure....then what? Arggg.....

I ride a '01 Kawi ZX6R with 30+ Kms. Any suggestions can only be helpful suggestions so thank you in advanced :)
You're going to need some tools. An impact wrench is a huge help in getting the countershaft nut off. Then you'll need a chain tool, which helps you remove the old chain and install the new chain. You'll also need a torque wrench to properly put stuff back together. Some sort of grinder is also needed to grind the old rivit off.

The job itself isn't particularly difficult. I'd say if you're serious about motorcycle maintenance the tools are obviously a requirement and a valuable investment - you'll use them for the rest of your wrenching life.

Time to decide if you want to make the tool investment and get serious.
 

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Amen to that, can't imagine havin a bike and not havin the tools to do at least the simple and basic maintanence. It's fun and rewarding knowing you did it yourself.

I would suggest you invest in a good factory service manual gives you all your torque specs and a detailed script to follow to complete the job correctly. and tells some of the things to not do as well. Should be available from your local dealer. Good luck :fingersex :cheers

Where's Guelph??
 
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