Kawasaki Ninja ZX Forum banner

1 - 20 of 26 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
16 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Hi people,I am new to this site, but have been a Kawasaki follower for over 20 years. I bought my first ZX7R in the year 2000 and have had many more since and a Yamaha/Honda/and Suzuki in between, but always gone back to Kawasaki for reliability, power and good looks.
I bought my latest ZX7R last year and rode it home last June, but didn't like the sound of it as it just didn't sound as Kawasaki's do. So I need some help from the experts here.

The bike is a P5 year 2000 and has been tampered with , in as much as the air recycling valves been removed and I am sure the carbs have been tampered with too and the previous owner had never got it running perfect.
I took the carbs off to examine what's what and found that the jets have been changed to 36 idle and 165 / 170 main jets. The Haynes manual says 42 idle and 200 /210 main jets with float height set to 13MM +or- 2.
I changed the jets to 200 and 190 with idle at 42 and set the levels as per manual and given the whole lot a good clean out job with air blasting and the air jets on 2 turns out and used the sincronizer to balance the carbs too.
The bike starts fairly easy and seems to idle OK but on revving it over 4000, it pos and bangs from the exhaust and carbs, all of which is confusing, as pops from the exhaust means lean fuel and pops from the carbs means too rich.
I have taken the carbs off and put on at least 10 times and always checked and double checked the settings, but bike does not seem to want to play ball.
I have new set of plugs, ignition coils, new leads, good working order fuel pump and all hoses seem good.
I don't know what it is I am over looking , so any advice would be most appreciated.
I am also looking to get a set of carbs from a ZX9 to fit in place of the original as a last resort, but I am not even sure if that will work.
I know I can throw money at it and let an expert sort it out for me, but where is fun in that, I like a challenge and don't give up that easily and I am hoping some of you bright sparks will be able to offer some help.

Cheers
Nader
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
16 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Thanks for a speedy reply and some very useful information. I am surprised to learn that Haynes manual is offering the wrong information. Well according to the page you have provided, the original setting was not far from the Kawasaki OEM, but the bike was sounding rough and had no low end power, hence why I was interested in taking the carbs apart.
I will put back the old jets and try again, at least the bike was running then without any pops and bangs but needed revving up to get the best from standing still.

What are your thoughts about getting a ZX9R set of carbs to try? will the jet sizes make much difference for the better or worst?
I will be back here again to report after putting the old jets back in .
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
16 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
I have put the old jets back in and adjusted the float levels and 1 3/4 turn out on pilot but still no joy.
I checked for sparks and there is sparks but very weak, so I must have a secondary issue here as well as the carbs.
Electrical is not my strongest point, but I do have a basic knowledge and have ago attitude to solving problems.
Among all things, one thing has got me very confused. I took the HT coils out to check and trace for any possible poor connections or broken lines, but lost track of what wire connects to which terminal.
The coils have two spade connectors but no identification marks on them to distinguish between the +ve feed terminal and the other, all they have is, one with a Grey body colour insulation and the other is Black insulation at base of each spade.

If the black is commonly used as a -ve ground colour, then the other side in Grey must be the +ve terminal !!! or is it? In other words, how do I know to which terminal should the Red power supply attach to?
I have bought a ZX9R C carburetors, which I have been assured will fit my ZX7R, so maybe I can fit them as is and hope for the best and then concentrate on getting the electrics sorted, but I do need some help in identifying the correct connections to the coils first.
I have read a lot about the weak sparks in most of the forums and there is a lot to check and eliminate before buying a CDI, or a Pick up Coil.
Any hints or help is most appreciated.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
16 Posts
I've got a ZXR750L1 that i'm presently restoring, well trying to get it to work! My first question is , do you have a Haynes manual? By studying the wiring diagram , you should be able to work out which wire is which and there's also advice on diagnosis of the coils by measuring the resistance.
With the carbs, I cheated and sent them away. The bike has been dormant for around 10 years or so and after an initial clean and reasemble, they still wouldn't work so I sent them away. It was costly but well worth it in the end. I now have a bike that fires.
I'll have a look at mine and hopefully the colours should be similar. Try posting a picture of your dilemma.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
16 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
I've got a ZXR750L1 that i'm presently restoring, well trying to get it to work! My first question is , do you have a Haynes manual? By studying the wiring diagram , you should be able to work out which wire is which and there's also advice on diagnosis of the coils by measuring the resistance.
With the carbs, I cheated and sent them away. The bike has been dormant for around 10 years or so and after an initial clean and reasemble, they still wouldn't work so I sent them away. It was costly but well worth it in the end. I now have a bike that fires.
I'll have a look at mine and hopefully the colours should be similar. Try posting a picture of your dilemma.
Thank you for your input, any guidance is appreciated. Yes I do have a Haynes Manual, but it has no information about the terminal ID, yet some information in there is wrong, so I am told.
The carbs are more of a secondary issue now, as I believe the cause of the problem may have been the electrical in the first place or may be both but to lesser extent, the carbs.
But my question still remains. The coils have two terminals for the low voltage input and no markings to say which is which! (+ve or -ve)
But where the spades protrude from the casing, one is Grey casing colour and the other is Black. Cables going into the terminals are Red and Dotted Green. so what goes to where?
I should have noted them when I took them off, yes I told you so is ringing in my ear :)
I try and upload a photo, but not sure how as yet. will see soon.
Nader
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
16 Posts
It shouldn't really matter. The coils form part of an 'AC' circuit. They 'transform' the low voltage pulses into High voltage (High Tension) pulses for the spark plugs, so can work either way. The Haynes manual should be accurate, espeically more mechanical and electric items, maybe get the odd spec wrong.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
16 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
Thanks for that, I must admit I sort of guessed that this might be the case, but the colouring of the cables and the spades ends made me start to doubt myself.
I will check the resistance again and now that my new purchase of ZX9R carbs have arrived, I will fit them too and try again.
Just to recap, the bike was working before I set upon it, but not satisfactory, which is why I started with the carbs but some of the electrical issues can give the same sort of symptoms as fueling.
But thanks again. I will be keeping you all posted as to what the problem was, if I ever find it :)
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
2,286 Posts
If trying to fit ZX9 carbs on the ZX7 you may need other pieces. Adapter plate, manifolds and airbox are different.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
16 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
Well, I have put the new carbs in and the original Kawasaki coils and still nothing. But here is what I found out that I have not heard anywhere or anyone talking about it.
I put the ohm meter across the terminals of the low tension circuit of the coils and it read 3.2 Ohm, well within the limit.
I then put the meter across the naked ends of the HT leads at plug end, and it read well within limit 14.7 ohm (kawasaki manual says 12 to 18)
But when I put the rubber plug ends on and try to read , it was showing 25 ohm and above !!! Kawasaki does not say there should be different readings.
I then put a metal piece in and checked for spark with the cap in place, and it was weak and barely visible.
I the just used the naked end of the cable to check for spark against the bikes body and hey presto, big fat blue sparks
So the question here is, what is inside the rubber spark plug cap that offers 10k ohm and above as resistance? and why should it suddenly be defective? Will a change of all caps get the bike singing and dancing again? They are expensive to buy new and old ones cant be trusted.
I thought it was only a bent metal inside it to accommodate the wire at one end and the plug top at the other, so why the resistance and drop in the quality of spark?
Any ideas anyone?
18164
18165
Kawasaki coils (1).jpg Kawasaki coils (2).jpg
18166
Kawasaki coils (1).jpg Kawasaki coils (2).jpg Kawasaki coils (1).jpg
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
16 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
If trying to fit ZX9 carbs on the ZX7 you may need other pieces. Adapter plate, manifolds and airbox are different.
I have used the plate from my 7R and couple of other short pipes on the cooling side and it went in without any trouble, but I am yet to start the bike once I get over the electrical problems.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
16 Posts
Discussion Starter #13
Sorry about the large photos, not sure how to get rid of them and stick with the thumb nail size:oops::oops:
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
2,286 Posts
I’m not sure how the plate from a 7R would fit onto ZX9 carbs, they are different. Carb body sizes are different and air boxes are different. Any photos to show how it fit?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
16 Posts
Discussion Starter #16
I’m not sure how the plate from a 7R would fit onto ZX9 carbs, they are different. Carb body sizes are different and air boxes are different. Any photos to show how it fits

I checked the looks of the carbs on ebay before I settled for the one I bought from a ZX9R C model. the plate from the zx7r fits perfectly and a couple of cooling pipes change and fuel pipe change made the whole thing fit in perfectly.
It has a throutle position sensor at one end, which is now redundant and the cables fit between the two sets of carbs as 7r does, so no issue there.
I will add photos, once I can workout how to insert small photos and not the giant ones above :)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
16 Posts
Discussion Starter #17

·
Registered
Joined
·
16 Posts
Similar to a zxr750 then. The spark cap has xd05f and a few letters after that but I still think that that is the cause of your issue.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
16 Posts
Discussion Starter #19
For those of you still interested in helping me out with my ZX7R starting issue, I will continue to write here.
I took the plug heads off and then unscrewed the inner brass piece (looks like a carburetor jet) and out popped a fuse looking thing and a long spring. The fuse looking thing is the resistor and on measuring each and every one of them, they all came in around 5k ohm which is as it should be.
I have 12.8V at the battery terminals and 11.89 at the coils primary and all the joints checked on the middle to back end of the bike reads within tolerances.
Yet I have a very weak spark at the plug points !!Coils have been tested to read spot on in both circuits, leads are wire and plug tops now all within limits.
Question, If the CDI was faulty, would I still be getting sparks, albeit all sparks are weak and barely visible?
I will take the front of the bike apart and expose all the wires from the switch on wards to see if I find any faults there.

I had a P6 2003 some time ago and i was stranded in west end, but the RAC man came to my aid and found the fault with the main switch and proceeded to repair my bike there and then with some soldering. Same bike let me down again at another time and this time it kept blowing main fuse and it took the bike shop a day to find it was chaffing wires around the front of the bike, wires coming out of the main frame. So I will be looking at these too.
As before, any hints or heads up is much appreciated.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
16 Posts
Discussion Starter #20
Similar to a zxr750 then. The spark cap has xd05f and a few letters after that but I still think that that is the cause of your issue.
I found that I can take the resistor out of the plug caps, but unsure if they are a necessary parts to be there, or the bike can just as easily do without the resistor in the caps.
Any ideas about that? I haven't tried running the bike without the resistors in the caps as yet, but I am getting desperate.
After a good clean of the caps and removal and reassembly of the inner parts, all plug caps when measured, read between 4.88 to 5.1 KOHM which is as stated in the book.
I will battle on for now.
 
1 - 20 of 26 Posts
Top