That would be not-sweet and non-sparkling?

Seriously though, the difference between rich and lean (high or low fuel level) in this area can be hard to describe. Both can kind of seem like a sag in power as the engine speeds up and starts to get into the main jet circuit and run cleaner. The rich version has more of a stumble or stutter i.e. wet as in clearing your throat. The lean version is more of a flat spot in the power curve and there is no stutter or bogging cough.

I would say, for grins go screw up your floats both ways and help us describe it, but it wouldn't be worth the time.

 

Probably not, mine seems to be more of the rich thing, which would be only a fourth indication of it.


Floats have probably never been properly set. My bike has been abused.

 

Probably not, mine seems to be more of the rich thing, which would be only a fourth indication of it.
Floats have probably never been properly set. My bike has been abused.

You'll definitely want to experiment with all the various settings the FP way.

As for the "dry/flat spot" concept, it is my understanding that between fuel circuits there are RPM spots where fuel delivery isn't linear. For instance, on my CVKD equipped 2002, I experimented with 14mm, where 13mm is stock: meaning 1mm leaner. I immediately noticed throttle lag, stripped the bike and put them back to 13mm.

Raising fuel height with the float will help smooth out the transition from pilot (slow) jet to jet needle.

 

Adding some photos to help out

Eyeglass blade screwdriver used to adjust the pilot air screws symmetrically prior to the throttle body synchronization.

Tip #1: For the E* & F (2000 - 2003) models, Kawi recommends 1 5/8 turns on the pilot air screws, although 1 1/2 resulted in an increase in MPG, as well as, better hot starting. At 2.0 turns fuel consumption increased about 20% and mid-range throttle response turned lumpy. Both my 9Rs prefer 1 1/2 turns and easily eclipse 50 MPG except under the most extreme riding. (see Fuelly.com)

On the E1/E2 models the airbox can remain on, since the three synchronization screws face towards the back. Noted in the picture are the clear restrictor tubes, whose job it is to even out vacuum pulses.

A closer look at both the restrictor tube inserts (note #4) and the vacuum nipple locations under the intake boots (1998 - 2003, perhaps other models too).

This last photograph is not necessarily relevant to performing a carb sync, but I wanted to point out various items that some of your 9Rs may or may not have.

1) Leftmost: see the electronic connectors for the float bowl fuel cut-off solenoids.
2) Bottom center: original fuel filter, at that time with 54,000 miles on it.
3) Top Center: fuel pump
4) Right of top center: California emissions plumbing (blue/blk tubing).
5) Bottom right: California emissions charcoal canister (black rectangle).​

* Pictured: 2000 ZX-9R E1 California (CA) model

 

The manual says, "The take-off point for each cylinder is located at the base of the cylinder head intake port, directly beneath the carb intake rubber. Depending on model, the take-off port will have either a blanking bolt or an adapter fitting screwed into it." I found 2 bolts in the middle on the intake, and the two intake ports on the outside have hoses attached. My adapters that came with the manometer are not the same thread diameter as the bolts in the middle. I'm not sure where to go from here.

 

There are nipples on each of the float chambers. :headscratch

 

Aaaaaand those are drains.

I found this picture, so I believe I have found the right ports, but I'm just not sure how I can get all 4 synced at the same time.. I guess I could borrow the nipple off of 4, do 1 & 2, switch them over to 3&4, then use 2&3 to do all 4 carbs. If that's the case then I should have just bought the damn manometer with two Guages and saved myself some money

 

Re-read that thread again. My problem is that there are no vacuum nipples on 2 & 3. I will see if I can locate some at the hardware store tomorrow to keep from having to switch them around two extra times as mentioned. My manometer didn't come with any.

Sync'd up the carbs yesterday and I got that "being pulled by a freight train" feeling back during acceleration. Here's a lil custom plumbing I did to accomodate my setup. I installed vacuum nozzles on carbs 2 & 3 (1 & 4 were connected to the KLEEN plumbing) so all four carbs have them to make my life easier without swapping nuts and nozzles all the time. That said, I needed to block-off said nozzles and rigged up this fine piece of engineering awe: (3/16" hose and T's)


and installed:


took it for a short test ride and this lil piggy cried "WE-WE-WEEEEE" all the way 'round atlanta :rofl

 

Others have been unsuccessful looking there, but you might get lucky. I'd look in the plumbing and irrigation isles for something in the 6mm ID range; you want the nipple to seal. You may be able to thread in a drip irrigation coupler or even a slow drip unit:

 

Yea it was my first time. I had already spent more time than I needed to when I went looking for answers. This resulted in a couple of rage posts :angry This morning I just went out there bit the bullet and borrowed the nipples for each pair of carbs I was on. Kept dropping it on the #2 carb.......... This resulted in having to remove the bottom coolant hose to retrieve it. By the time I got to the 3 & 4,I just removed the coolant hose by 3 because I couldn't be bothered with it. Also discovered that since I was only using two of the hoses that came with my needle style manometer, I could use one over the nipple as I was trying to get it screwed in to keep from dropping it as much.

Thanks for this thread e1. It finally led me to my answers. Also saw the same post on Kawiforums I believe. I was about to let you know you'd been plagiarized, then I realized it was you with a different screen name :crackup

 

... Also saw the same post on Kawiforums I believe. I was about to let you know you'd been plagiarized, then I realized it was you with a different screen name :crackup

??? I haven't been active over there for years and if there's a thread with my bike's pics, that ain't me.

Hope they plagiarized well enough to come to the same conclusions. :headscratch

BTW, place a shop rag under your carbs to catch things you drop. :rolleyes

 

No pics or anything, just this exact OP word for word, and the location was the same so I figured it was you. Yes the dates were only a few days difference

 

Post Carbtune Pro 4 carb sync cold start - 2002 ZX-9R F1

Sorry, no big sound, revving or any of that.

This is an example of a cold start on my F1 and how mine idles after having its throttle bodies synchronized. Engine takes a solid couple of minutes to break the 104° F mark.



And a similar video from 2011, except the E1 is already warm.



For a fun science experiment, if you have a 2.1 or 5.1 sound system (with a subwoofer), invite your family pet in while you play each video. I'm curious to how they will react.