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How can the carbs be synced with the airbox in place? I cannot reach the sync screws or nipple adapters with the airbox in place? It seems that the sync should be done with the airbox in place, cannot see how to do it?

ZX-1100
thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #22
Not to worry. It's okay to take the box off if that's required for your model. By the sound of it, your ZX-11's sync screws face up at the front of your carbs. On my 2000 ZX-9r they are at the front but face backwards. On my second ZX-9r they face up and the airbox has to come off.

If I find a way to adjust them without taking the airbox off, I'll post it up. I think the airbox-on method results are more reliable, b/c my second bike is already out of sync after only 1,000 miles. Owning a tool like the CarbTune is the only way to go.
 

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Discussion Starter #23 (Edited)
How 'bout that!

EDIT: The quoted material may have been the result of a plugged pilot jet. I'm leaving it for historic relevance, but I am once again syncing at 1,500 RPM.

Learned something new after an extensive sync session on one of my bikes. Best results on my newer bike (using CVKD-40mm carbs) came from synchronizing the TBs at 900 RPM, not 1,500 as I've done in the past (on CVRD-40mm carbs).

And interestingly enough, the sync pointed out that my float heights are too low (lean) on this bike. F*CK. I just love this tool!! :rofl
 

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Learned something new after an extensive sync session on one of my bikes. Best results on my newer bike (using CVKD-40mm carbs) came from synchronizing the TBs at 900 RPM, not 1,500 as I've done in the past (on CVRD-40mm carbs).

And interestingly enough, the sync pointed out that my float heights are too low (lean) on this bike. F*CK. I just love this tool!! :rofl
As many carb questions pop up...this should be stickied IMO. :crazyloco
 

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How can you tell if your floats are out of spec?
When I had my carbs apart, I used a scale to check them and they were within the specs in the manual.
 

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Discussion Starter #26
How can you tell if your floats are out of spec?
When I had my carbs apart, I used a scale to check them and they were within the specs in the manual.
There's a difference between 'within specs' and how the height affects the low speed fuel circuit's lean/ideal/rich fuel delivery:

"If the engine is "dry" and flat between 2k to 3k rpm, raise the fuel level." Factory Pro.

If you haven't read their CV Carburetor Tuning Procedure, do it! The knowledge you'll gain from one page will be worth its weight in gold...if that could be measured. :dunno :evil
 

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Discussion Starter #27
As many carb questions pop up...this should be stickied IMO. :crazyloco
One obstacle even if stickied, a lot of riders don't know what a synchronization is for. But I appreciate and agree with your recommendation.
 

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Discussion Starter #28 (Edited)
#1 pilot jet went clogged on me!

This is what I get for letting the new bike sit for weeks on end without riding it and when I do only riding it 10 miles then parking it again. I had been noticing that < 3,000 RPM operation was getting annoying and erratic and I found out tonight why. The damn pilot jet hole for #1 was completely covered over. The ZXF advice of using a fine piece of wire did the trick. After starting it, the engine RPM was still bobbling about, so I hooked up the CarbTune to discover that clearing the jet made 1&2 off sync. Putting them back in line made the left and right bank off, so I put them back in line.

Took her for a spin. Wow, what a difference! Much much better. :rofl

All is right in the world again.

EDIT: No doubt about it, she's running fine below <3K again. Took the bike out to clear the carbon out, 273 miles worth. Feels good.
 

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Just got my Carbtune from England. My home made manometer is sheet. Finally going to do it properly here.
 

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probably a dumb question but are the carbs on a kawi like the ones on my old honda where as num 2 carb was the base carb ie non adjustable therefore used as a base to set the rest?
By base carb, meaning it is hooked directly to the throttle cables, and all the other carbs adjust to it. In this case Yes. At least for the 11, but I'm pretty sure most banks are that way. This doesn't really make it a "master" but to change the idle positon of 2 you can only adjust the idle screw, none of the sync screws will change #2. This is why you do 1 to 2, 4 to 3 (notice when you adjust the right most screw, 4 moves, not 3) and then 3 to 2 or right pair to left pair.

But good reading and with the amount of real time that we spend in the low throttle opening range on our bikes it is essential for good operation.
 

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There's a difference between 'within specs' and how the height affects the low speed fuel circuit's lean/ideal/rich fuel delivery:

"If the engine is "dry" and flat between 2k to 3k rpm, raise the fuel level." Factory Pro.

If you haven't read their CV Carburetor Tuning Procedure, do it! The knowledge you'll gain from one page will be worth its weight in gold...if that could be measured. :dunno :evil
Thats the only thing I dont get. Dry and flat? Describe this.
 

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That would be not-sweet and non-sparkling?

Seriously though, the difference between rich and lean (high or low fuel level) in this area can be hard to describe. Both can kind of seem like a sag in power as the engine speeds up and starts to get into the main jet circuit and run cleaner. The rich version has more of a stumble or stutter i.e. wet as in clearing your throat. The lean version is more of a flat spot in the power curve and there is no stutter or bogging cough.

I would say, for grins go screw up your floats both ways and help us describe it, but it wouldn't be worth the time.
 

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Probably not, mine seems to be more of the rich thing, which would be only a fourth indication of it.


Floats have probably never been properly set. My bike has been abused.
 

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Discussion Starter #36
Probably not, mine seems to be more of the rich thing, which would be only a fourth indication of it.
Floats have probably never been properly set. My bike has been abused.
You'll definitely want to experiment with all the various settings the FP way.

As for the "dry/flat spot" concept, it is my understanding that between fuel circuits there are RPM spots where fuel delivery isn't linear. For instance, on my CVKD equipped 2002, I experimented with 14mm, where 13mm is stock: meaning 1mm leaner. I immediately noticed throttle lag, stripped the bike and put them back to 13mm.



Raising fuel height with the float will help smooth out the transition from pilot (slow) jet to jet needle.
 

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Discussion Starter #37
Adding some photos to help out

Eyeglass blade screwdriver used to adjust the pilot air screws symmetrically prior to the throttle body synchronization.

Tip #1: For the E* & F (2000 - 2003) models, Kawi recommends 1 5/8 turns on the pilot air screws, although 1 1/2 resulted in an increase in MPG, as well as, better hot starting. At 2.0 turns fuel consumption increased about 20% and mid-range throttle response turned lumpy. Both my 9Rs prefer 1 1/2 turns and easily eclipse 50 MPG except under the most extreme riding. (see Fuelly.com)

On the E1/E2 models the airbox can remain on, since the three synchronization screws face towards the back. Noted in the picture are the clear restrictor tubes, whose job it is to even out vacuum pulses.

A closer look at both the restrictor tube inserts (note #4) and the vacuum nipple locations under the intake boots (1998 - 2003, perhaps other models too).

This last photograph is not necessarily relevant to performing a carb sync, but I wanted to point out various items that some of your 9Rs may or may not have.
1) Leftmost: see the electronic connectors for the float bowl fuel cut-off solenoids.
2) Bottom center: original fuel filter, at that time with 54,000 miles on it.
3) Top Center: fuel pump
4) Right of top center: California emissions plumbing (blue/blk tubing).
5) Bottom right: California emissions charcoal canister (black rectangle).​

* Pictured: 2000 ZX-9R E1 California (CA) model
 

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:headscratch The Carbtune vacuum hoses are attached, in order, to their respective intake vacuum nipples (#92150). You remove/pop-off the existing vacuum hose, attach the Carbtune hose, sync the carbs, then reattach the existing vacuum hose to its exact intake vacuum nipple.

Picture compliments of CyclePartsNation.com

I found this thread in search, and thought, FINALLY. e1 has a zx9, I'll be able to figure out where to connect these damn hoses. Get down to this post...Oh yes, finally here it is...NO PICTURE.:banghead :banghead :banghead


Between this thread, my haynes manual, and the cycleparts break down of the 03 zx9r carbs, I still can't seem to figure out. e1, turn on your flashlight and shed some light for me please....They are CVK just for reference

Here's a new link for 03 carb parts breakdown
http://www.cyclepartsnation.com/oemparts/a/kaw/500b273cf8700223e479182e/carburetor
 

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The manual says, "The take-off point for each cylinder is located at the base of the cylinder head intake port, directly beneath the carb intake rubber. Depending on model, the take-off port will have either a blanking bolt or an adapter fitting screwed into it." I found 2 bolts in the middle on the intake, and the two intake ports on the outside have hoses attached. My adapters that came with the manometer are not the same thread diameter as the bolts in the middle. I'm not sure where to go from here.
 
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