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Ok so I have looked at tons of threads showing how to carb sync but cant seem to find one with any pictures "Im a visual learner". I just purchased the carb sync tool and now need to learn how to do it. Here are a few of my questions..

Where do I hook up the vacume hoses that go to the gauges?

What should each carb read on the dial?

From my understanding there is only 3 screwe where you make the adjustments. One in between each carb? Correct?

Setting my pilot screws at 2 1/2 turns from back fro full closed, correct?

Also FYI, I have a K&N air filter and a Two brothers exhaust. Any help appriciated, Thanks!
 

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Ok so I have looked at tons of threads showing how to carb sync but cant seem to find one with any pictures "Im a visual learner". I just purchased the carb sync tool and now need to learn how to do it. Here are a few of my questions..

Where do I hook up the vacume hoses that go to the gauges?

What should each carb read on the dial?

From my understanding there is only 3 screwe where you make the adjustments. One in between each carb? Correct?

Setting my pilot screws at 2 1/2 turns from back fro full closed, correct?

Also FYI, I have a K&N air filter and a Two brothers exhaust. Any help appriciated, Thanks!
the vaccuum ports are under the carbs either has the block off screws or vacuum ports there. yes its 3 adjustment screws. i believe its 1 and 2 together, then 3-4 then 2-3 for syncing but dont quote on that. i have a d&d exhaust slip-on and i have my pilots turned out 1 15/16 turn out. but thats just me. and each carb should read even between the carbs u are adjusting. i dont think its supposed to be at a certain level so much just even with eachother. hope that helps.
 

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X2...

Normally bump the idle up to at least 2500, if not around 4000 rpm for the synch.

Synch 1 & 2 then 3 & 4 and then synch 1/2 with 3/4.

Don't focus on numbers just make sure the levels are as close to each other as possible.

Josh
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Cool thanks all.. So whays the stuff I read about the 160/170/170/160 stuff?

Also are the valves the knes witht the screws on em? At the bottom of the float bowls?
 

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The ones on the bottoms of the bowls are drains.

There are ports on the head underneath where the carbs attach for the vacuum. the 16/170 stuff is your main jet sizes, you probably dont need to worry about that.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Ive pulled the carbs and I do not see any block off Ports nor any places to hook up the vacume hoses on the bottom? Am I missing somthing here? I see the four screws that hold the bowl on, I see the pilot screws, but thats it? Nothing anywhere else? Can someone point me in the right direction? Thanks
 

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The vacuum ports are on the actual intake runners leading into the cylinder head, not the actual carbs themselves.

Josh
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
You wouldnt happen to have a pic kind sir would you?

Wait do they have a rubber hose connecting all of them together already attached to them? Running into the actual aluminum intake?
 

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... looking thru Google...

Josh
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Ok, so I hooked up the vacume lines to those Ports and it is working properly... Now i.was adjusting the screws and the bike started to bog down and then died??? Now it wont start.. Im a bit tired and frustrated, I had to step away for a minute. I was reading to posts like.. Yea it taked five seconds.. What the hell!!!
 

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Did you suck up the synch fluid?

Josh
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Om so I got it.. Sometimes you just gotta walk away for a second regroup then go back and finish er up.. It was still a bit tough to get it synced right but they came along good, all almost dead on with each other. Now I just need to pull the vacume lines and put back the original tubing.

I do still find somthing strange though. before and after the carb sync, when I try to put my choke on, the bike will bogg out and die? If the bike is on and I put it on real slow.. It will dip down a little then start to rev high. I never have to use the choke to start it but I just find ot weird that it does that?

I took pics of where the lines go for future noobs like me. Also no fluid in my carb syncer, im using the gauge needle type. Works quite well and I dont have to worry about any evaporating liquid or anything.

Will post pics tomorrow. Thanks all for the help!
 

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If you synced the carbs while warm like you were supposed to do, when you pull the choke the bike will die.
 

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This thread is old Christi. Sorry. Was just reading old carb sync threads and saw the famous "add pics tomorrow." Frustrated with being short 2 nipples. Lol
I've found my answer and I was going to add it to e1's 45 min thread
 
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