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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ripped the carb rack off a week ago Friday. Ordered everything need to rebuild. Set up a sterile table in my kitchen and rebuilt the piss out of the carburetors. The book said I didn't need to separate the carbs and clean one at a time. Then it tells me to soak each one for 30 minutes. That doesn't work when they are still connected to each other. Anyway I just removed all the jets, vacuum diaphragms, and everything else. I soaked the bowls and put the jets in the bowls to sit while I hosed down the body and choke. For a bike that hasn't been on the road for 3 plus years, everything was pretty free of varnish. Stabilizer is the shit. The #2 carb had some gunk around the needle jet holder, the bowls had some rust (?) particles floating around, and the pilot screws didn't look that great. But everything cleaned up well and with the K&L kits the pilot screws were not a problem. I did one carb at a time and by the 4th, I was a pro.

For anyone that wants to rebuild themselves, I have three suggestions. 1) use proper size screwdrivers, getting the bowls off with those phillips head screws is a bitch, press hard, I stripped 2. 2) I used a bamboo skewer to remove the needle jets and get out the o-ring from the pilot screw - brillant. 3) Carb cleaner is highly pressurized, wear glasses, I got a good shot to the eye and had to fill up the bathtub and stick my head in it for 10 minutes.

The absolute worst part about this whole deal is getting the rack back in the bike. The rubber carb holders on the airbox get in the way and either pull out or push in when I tried to manhandle the rack. Of course I forgot to hook the Throttle cables back up first. It was about 2 hours before I got the carbs in for the second time, and had all the hoses, cables, and boots hooked up and tightened. Damn frame is in the way hence the bloodly knuckles.

I really wanted to install socket head screws on the bowls, but sears hardware was out. I also wanted a inline fuel filter, but there isn't any room between the tank and carbs. I should have taken off the petcock and clean the filters inside. Screw it. Gas doesn't come out of the petcock without the vacuum line, I guess, and I'm not siphoning shit. I hate the taste of gas.

I decided to try to start the bike before I put all the plastic back on. Freaking battery is dead again. This battery was new in the fall and I charged it 2 weeks ago when again it was dead. So I jumped it with my truck. Took a minute for the carbs to fill, but I Started! Idle was alittle erratic at first, and I had to feather the choke, but once it warmed up a slowed killed the choke and adjust the idle screw at the same time. The book says it should idle at 1050rpm +/-, but it stalls below 1500rpm. Sounds good at around 1800. I think its a vacuum problem. I'll have to have the shop check the vacuums and charging system.

Time for plastic. I ordered the entire fairing kit on bikebolts.com, stainless steel with nylon bushing for somewhere around $25 with shipping. Some a-hole that owned it before me didn't put a single original bolt back in when they took off the plastic. This kit made it so easy to get the plastic back on and tight and look good too. Except for where someone shoved huge self tapping screws into the padded knee covers.

Took the bike for a fresh tank of gas. 94 octane at the Sunoco. The bike totally hauls down the road. Pulled into the station and the idle even straightened itself out. Although I back the bike up while it was still in gear and then couldn't get it into neutral (or any other gear for that matter). What's Up with That? I had to start it by pulling in the clutch. After riding it around for a few more minutes, I realized this only happens if I back up while its in gear. Has this ever happened to anyone? Otherwise it's fine.

So I cleaned up the bike, let it cool, put the cover on and back in the garage. Next week, a trip to the shop.

The following is what I think I should ask them to check:
First, and mostly importantly - Inspection.
Vacuum Problem?
Idle too high?
Recommend Carb Sync?
The engine is kinda noisy - Valve Adjustment? or Kawi knock?
Transmission problem? maybe external shift mechanism? (I'm not paying for anything that involve removing the engine and splitting the case.)
Test charging system.
Anything else I'm missing?
 

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Congrats on getting it all cleaned out and back together.

It sounds as though it was quite the comedy of errors while you were working on it... made for a good read as I'm sure we've all been there and put something back together and DOH!! realized we forgot stuff... ripped it apart again... and again...

:rotflmao
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks for reading, I'm glad YOU enjoyed it. As for the rest of you, for the love of puppies, I spent a good amount of time writing all that, no one has any comments or suggestions?

I still have a few problems. 2000rpm is entirely too high to be idling, I'd turn it down but it'll stall. Does anyone else have problems with not being able to shift after backing up while in gear? And why the hell would my speedometer read 70 when I think I'm only doing 45?
 

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The following is what I think I should ask them to check:
First, and mostly importantly - Inspection.
Vacuum Problem?
Idle too high?
Recommend Carb Sync?
The engine is kinda noisy - Valve Adjustment? or Kawi knock?
Transmission problem? maybe external shift mechanism? (I'm not paying for anything that involve removing the engine and splitting the case.)
Test charging system.
Anything else I'm missing?
The knock is probably primary transmission snatch caused by the carbs being out of synch - if it is, it will do it less when you pull in the clutch & select 1st gear, older Kawi's are mechanically quite noisy. Before you synch the carbs check the valve clearances, as doing them after could put the synch out again. Once carbs are synch'ed the tickover should settle to the right rpm assuming the floats levels, etc are correct.

With the transmission make sure everything is adjusted right before you go looking for internal problems, this includes rear chain slack, slack in clutch cable + cable lubed, linkage between gear lever & selector shaft making sure everything is tight & the gear lever pivot greased.

HTH
 

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And why the hell would my speedometer read 70 when I think I'm only doing 45?
changed sprockets recently?
if you speedo is guided by the front ...... then that would be it
 

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The knock is probably primary transmission snatch caused by the carbs being out of synch - if it is, it will do it less when you pull in the clutch & select 1st gear, older Kawi's are mechanically quite noisy. Before you synch the carbs check the valve clearances, as doing them after could put the synch out again. Once carbs are synch'ed the tickover should settle to the right rpm assuming the floats levels, etc are correct.

With the transmission make sure everything is adjusted right before you go looking for internal problems, this includes rear chain slack, slack in clutch cable + cable lubed, linkage between gear lever & selector shaft making sure everything is tight & the gear lever pivot greased.

HTH
i concour what you've just said ny friend...
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Finally got the bike into the shop!

I haven't done much with it since the carb cleaning. It did start after I re-installed them and I put about 30 miles on it. But after that, starting the bike has been a bitch. It won't start on its own. I have to charge the battery, give it full choke, turn it over until the battery dies again, rinse, and repeat. It'll usually start after an hour of this process, but as soon as I touch the throttle, it dies again. Wet cell batteries suck.

So I loaded the bike into a E-350 van and drove it 30 miles to the Cycle Stop in Norristown. Of course it fell over in the back of the van. Snapped off one of the mirrors and probably gave myself a slipped disc trying to pick it up again.

I'll post again once I get the call.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Stopped at the Cycle Stop to check their progress today. Compression is good, good spark in all cylinders. The only thing he said was wrong was that the fuel petcock vacuum diaphragm had a hole in it. He said that my carb cleaning was insufficient and that the gas in the tank was funky. So it's getting another carb job and fresh gas. Should be ready for a road test and inspection this week.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
BIKE IS DONE!

Here's what they said:

Checked compression and spark before anything else: Perfect.
Checked battery and charging system: Good. Sealed batteries are not an option for me. (that sucks)
THOROUGHLY cleaned the carbs and tank. Fuel petcock diaphragm had a hole in it and that's probably what was mostly wrong.
Fresh Gas. Stabilizer is recommended if gas will not be used in one month and will not do any damage.

I also asked about valve clearance adjustment and use of synthetic oil.

Definitely and Definitely Not, respectively. Valve clearance problems can actually burn out the cams and Full Synthetic Oil will ruin my clutch plates. Semi-synthetic is a good choice and (he) recommends Bel-ray. (Cheap alternative to Suzuki Oil).

I'm so stoked.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Oh, I definitely recommend the Cycle Stop in Norristown. Everyone their is honest and actually like talking to you. And the store is frickin cool. They're also very reasonable. I spent less than $450 for 5.5 hrs labor, parts and inspection.
 

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You don't know how hard I laughed reading this. So I bought a 1988 Zx600C last wednesday at 6, rode 500 miles in a week (first bike) then decided the gas (leak) dripping down my third and some of my fourth carbs was something I should fix. With no mechanical experience whatsoever I began, like you said, it took me a full day to get off the carbs, granted i spent part of that time repairing fairings and repainting and replacing the short shifting pedal that was on it, but still. Cleaned them the next day, spent two hours getting the carbs back in, which is pretty difficult to do, because those stupid exhaust manifold tubes go all over the place when sliding the carbs in, and there's zero space to manuever them. Anyways, everything back on it the bike didn't start and I realized, yup, I reversed my throttle cables, so my grip moved opposite the way it should. Removed the carbs again, and fixed that issue, only took my two hours total this time, but then got it all back together, and the bike doesn't start.
Well now I don't see any fuel coming from the tank to the carbs, and i popped the tap knob off the petcock, yup, solid leak.
So hopefully, if I replace the petcock assembly and whatnot, it'll be good to go.

Why didn't I just wait till winter to mess with it?
Anyways just thought our stories were oddly similar and equally retarded.
 

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If there was rust in the bowls of the carbs your gas tank probaly has rust inside it. You coudl cream coat the tank again. It use to happen to almost all the old honda trikes I have. Cream coat is not hard to do on your own and it will seal everything back up in the tank again. Nice ride by the way!
 

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If you have ever replaced the carbs on a C model bike you can relate to this tread. The frame is a couple tubes that runs from the front to just under the seat. Taking those carbs off is a bitch to say the least. Also as those rubber pieces that join the carbs to the manifold and to the air box age they get stiff. REALLY stiff. So between those and that frame it is a real pain. Then when you get everything on and you notice the cables are mixed up then you know you will have to do everything all over again. I have been there and understand like only another C model owner understands!
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
If you have ever replaced the carbs on a C model bike you can relate to this tread. The frame is a couple tubes that runs from the front to just under the seat. Taking those carbs off is a bitch to say the least. Also as those rubber pieces that join the carbs to the manifold and to the air box age they get stiff. REALLY stiff. So between those and that frame it is a real pain. Then when you get everything on and you notice the cables are mixed up then you know you will have to do everything all over again. I have been there and understand like only another C model owner understands!
And then, sometimes the carbs need to be cleaned a second or third time because dirt and rust hide in the petcock and fuel lines and come out only to get stuck in the needle jet which sends gas all down my khakis on my way to work.
 

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I bought a "92" ZX6R and was scammed by the person who sold it to me....It has very obviously (at least to my best friend who is a mechanic lol) not been riden as I had been told and he has taken the carbs apart to check them out telling me about rust in them and in the gas tank and how there is no way this person rode this bike...He had cleaned the carbs for me and I feel real bad now that I have read your stories hoping he did not go thru that for my bike lol......I have printed them out to see if they are any help to him...He has had a Gixxer and CBR so he has alot of experience with bike but not Kawi's....
 

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I bought a "92" ZX6R and was scammed by the person who sold it to me....It has very obviously (at least to my best friend who is a mechanic lol) not been riden as I had been told and he has taken the carbs apart to check them out telling me about rust in them and in the gas tank and how there is no way this person rode this bike...He had cleaned the carbs for me and I feel real bad now that I have read your stories hoping he did not go thru that for my bike lol......I have printed them out to see if they are any help to him...He has had a Gixxer and CBR so he has alot of experience with bike but not Kawi's....


A case of beer would probably help his missery! Or maybe a little more depending on how good a friend he is ;) (Gotta helpt the guys out whenever I can!)

If he removed the carbs to clean them then yes he went through all of it. If the manifold boots were stiff then it is the worst case scenerio. If they are soft then it was still bad but not as bad as it could have been.

Just a tip I figured out on this last tear down. If when you get to the point that you have the boots off and the carbs are in place but only being held on by the throttle cable, If you pull the plug wire off plug #1 you can swing the whole carb assembly to rider side left. It makes removal and install of the throttle cables MUCH easier.
 

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Well...I also had the gas tank puntured with screws that were used that were the wrong length.......Can you say ASS!!!!!....I found someone who was gonna weld the tank for me and he actually offered to buy the bike because he really liked it and he knew it is becoming a huge issue for me!!!!!!!!!!!!!....So as of tomorrow I will be bikeless again......I WANT TO RIDE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Sorry for the outburst I am just so fed up......
 
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