Kawasaki Ninja ZX Forum banner
1 - 18 of 18 Posts

·
Administrator
Joined
·
58,837 Posts
I used to use rotella t6 but they downgraded their specs to meet emissions and HH beat me up everytime i said the R word
Mobil 1 rt4 is good but I think it's overpriced
I now use Valvoline rt4
Is it the best?
maybe not
But I haven't blown up or died from any oil I've used
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
13,396 Posts
The price of Mobil 1 4T has been skyrocketing. O'Really's gets what the small bike shops used to ask and now the shops want even more.

Motul 300V Syn (same as Kawachem Syn) is good but expen$ive, also.

There's always Amsoil, which I thought was a little thicker than it's rating. Do they make it in 5W-40?

Castrol supposedly makes a good 4T synthetic. Never tried it. I have enough Mobil 1 4T for this season, but I better catch a sale and get a case before next.
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
58,837 Posts
Here's a good one
If you've ever been to kawiforums and the asshats over there just look at this one.
Mods liked him for some stupid reason
http://www.kawiforums.com/oil-lubrication/300394-some-more-oil-opinions.html

The best for me so far is a quart of Valvoline 20w-50 synthetic motorcycle oil, a quart of Valvoline 10w-40 synthetic motorcycle oil, and the rest Rotella T 15w-40 (about 1.6 quarts). I do not think mixing these oils is a big deal- your opinion may vary. People mix oil all the time when they switch from one oil to another, and they do not drain the engine completely.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
17 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Couple people told me Motul, I’m gonna give it a shot, never used it before. A mechanic told me not to use amsoil he said it leaks easily and he owned a ZX14 as well so I’m gonna steer clear of that. I wanted to run royal purple but I kind of feel like I don’t need it.
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
58,837 Posts
Amsoil leaks? That's a first
Haven't read too many good things about royal purple and yet guys swear by it
I don't think you'll do any wrong going with any motorcycle specific oil in the correct viscosity range
I prefer brands like mobil, Valvoline and any oil that you can get locally in case you need it on a trip
You won't find amsoil or motul on many store shelves
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
13,396 Posts
A leak is caused by a leak, not by the type of oil. I have used Amsoil and there were no leaks, so whoever said that is full of shit and trying to sell you something they have in stock.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
Just about any synthetic JASO MA/MA2 oil (consult for manufacturers weight specifications) should suffice. Class 4 synthetic (Amsoil) is great, class 5 (Motul 7100) is better but breaks down sooner. Class6 (Motul 300V) is a double ester and is great for racing (likely dumped/replaced often). They key is to change oil often. It is also wise to research oil filters as well. Some are garbage.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
13,396 Posts
Synthetic has two advantages; it doesn't gas off because it doesn't have all the volatile elements of regular petroleum oil and since it retains viscosity longer, you can extend the change intervals. If you plan on changing oil often, don't waste $ on synthetics.

There are folks here who change oil every 1000 miles and spark plugs every year. It's their money if they want to blow it. I change every 5000 because it was easier to track and remember than 6000. And good spark plugs last practically forever. If you NEED to change plugs as often as your socks, there's probably something else that needs to be addressed.

And if you're dumping a sumpful of Motul 300V more often than that, just send me your excess cash and I'll spend it on beer. At least it would be going to good use like that.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
188 Posts
Synthetic has two advantages; it doesn't gas off because it doesn't have all the volatile elements of regular petroleum oil and since it retains viscosity longer, you can extend the change intervals. If you plan on changing oil often, don't waste $ on synthetics.

There are folks here who change oil every 1000 miles and spark plugs every year. It's their money if they want to blow it. I change every 5000 because it was easier to track and remember than 6000. And good spark plugs last practically forever. If you NEED to change plugs as often as your socks, there's probably something else that needs to be addressed.

And if you're dumping a sumpful of Motul 300V more often than that, just send me your excess cash and I'll spend it on beer. At least it would be going to good use like that.
Fully agree, waste of money if you are dumping oil under 4-5K especially if running a quality synthetic, good dino oil can easily go 3K
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4 Posts
I read this rather large article that did an independent test on 200 plus oils for oil breakdown at 230 degrees. Apparently the psi that the oil can generate has a lot to do with its quality and that psi can drop dramatically when it is super-heated to 275 degrees.

Here is the article. It did test plenty of motorcycle specific oils and you would be surprised to find out that almost all of them were really low on the list.

https://540ratblog.wordpress.com/

I tried many oils when I bought my VFR800 due to it clunking when shifting. I found out later that it was not the oil but my shifting technique.

I now have an 06 zx14 and use the same oil that rated very high in psi at 230 degrees and only lost a little psi when super-heated to 275 degrees. I am aware that our oil doesn't go that high but in a high revving engine the better the oil can take high temps the better.

Mobil 1 0w40 for European engines full synthetic rates as high as Amsoil but costs less than 1/3 the price, and they sell it at Walmart for 23 bucks for 5 quarts.

It has no friction modifiers so it is safe for wet clutch's, and if you want to help your clutch even more, take out the stock springs and go with a stiffer spring set that holds the plates harder and prevents them from slipping as much. Less slip equals longer life.

Joel

It took me hours to read this article....but will have saved me a lot of money over the years and I now change my oil no later than 1500 miles, due to the nature of our engines breaking down oil much faster than cars. I have never understood guys that have black oil in their engines when it gets changed. Far too long to go in my opinion. Keep your engine a nice honey color and it will go forever.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
13,396 Posts
Mine was always a little darker coming out than going in, but never black or opaque. Blackened oil may indicate ring seal issues.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
30 Posts
The price of Mobil 1 4T has been skyrocketing. O'Really's gets what the small bike shops used to ask and now the shops want even more.

Motul 300V Syn (same as Kawachem Syn) is good but expen$ive, also.

There's always Amsoil, which I thought was a little thicker than it's rating. Do they make it in 5W-40?

Castrol supposedly makes a good 4T synthetic. Never tried it. I have enough Mobil 1 4T for this season, but I better catch a sale and get a case before next.
I've been running Castrol Power 1 for years in my ZX9R '99. EBC SRC clutch kit with stiffer springs. Runs great, both 10W40 and 10W50. Seems to run better with 10W50 since I have 69K miles on the bike. Also ran Elf Moto 4 XT Tech 10W50 for 2 years when it was available. Good oil too, but only about 80% synthetic. Good deal on Castrol on Amazon, under $50 for a case of 6 quart bottles. Sometimes on sale for around $37.
 
1 - 18 of 18 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top