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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I've had a '94 zx-6 since '95 and love the thing to pieces, do most of my own basic maintenance but want to start getting into it a little bit more after having read a lot of the mod posts. Got the bike out of the shed one spring, did my synthetic oil change, but the battery wouldn't keep a charge. I bought a new one (they gave me the wrong size), it was too tall for the terminals to reach so I turned the battery around and hooked em up.... backwards, aaaayyyyeeeee!!!! Heard a pop, checked the main fuse closest to the battery and it was fine. Now I'm at a loss and didn't have the time to go into it any deeper. My wife was glad I wouldn't be risking my life anymore now that I have 3 kids and no time to take off the plastic to find the problem, so the bike got stabilizer put into the fuel and she just sat...
Fast forward 3 years, have a new house with a garage, the honey-do-list is all caught up, kids see the bike almost daily and are itching to get on the back, and I now have the time to fix the problem. Pull off the plastic, find a blown fuse on top of the starter, replace it and everything lights up now! Kicking myself because I've been off the road for 3 years because of an F'ing fuse. The bike turned over, but I didn't want to fire it up until getting everything back in order. I've drained the gas out of the tank and carbs, went to change the oil but it was still crystal clear so decided not to, changed the header pipe portion of the exhaust because I had a hole underneath the bike, put in a new hi-flow air filter and inline gas filter, and I'm putting it all back together now.
I was planning on putting some carb cleaner additive in the empty tank and sucking it into the carbs to sit for a couple days but other then that I think I'm just gonna try and start it up.
Anyone have any other ideas before I get it all back together? Should I change the plugs? Drain and change the coolant, or the oil even tho its synthetic and looks new? I really don't want to take it apart again once I'm back on the road. There's not much of a riding season left up here in Niagara Falls, but if I can get a couple months of riding in before the snow falls I know I'll feel better about paying for the insurance to have it back on the road. Thanx in advance everyone. J
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Okay its' been a week and I've been working a lot but have made some progress and want to share some more details. When I drained the stabilized gas out of my tank I noticed some rust. Youtube videos showed filling the tank with vinegar would help with that problem. I used 5 gallons and let it sit for 3 days. This loosened all the rust flake, when I drained the tank I took the float out and also the top part where you put the key in and that left 2 nice big openings to get a pressure washer in. I sprayed everything out and the inside of the tank sparkled even when looking inside everywhere with a flash light and angled mirror. Also when I drained my carbs the 2 on the left side of the bike had some fuel come out, but the 2 on the right side had nothing come out of the drain holes. Is it more likely that the fuel evaporated out, or that the drain holes are clogged because of varnishing? Anyways, got everything back together, put the key in the ignition, turned it over, tried to give it some gas and the throttle wouldn't turn. What should be my next step here? I was thinking of taking the throttle apart and spraying the cable with penetrating oil or Kroil, or am I going to have to buy a new cable? Thanx in advance.... J
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I got the throttle apart today and the cables didn't look rusty at all from what I could see but I sprayed them with penetrant anyways. They still don't seem to move, but I don't see how the throttle is supposed to go back down? Is the throttle body itself spring loaded to return the throttle to the no-gas position?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
The work continues

So I sprayed the cables last night and let them sit. Got the tank and air box off today to expose the other ends of the throttle cables and they slide in and out of the cable sheath freely so it must be the throttle itself that's seized? Assuming that's what the other end of the cables are attached to. I've decided to take the carbs off and clean them as well. I've watched some generic carb cleaning videos on YouTube but wondered about how to take the bank of 4 carbs off my zx6, anyone have any guidance as to how to take them off for cleaning?
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 · (Edited)
Lol, I had my daughter first in November2010, then a son in March 2012, at which time the bike still worked and was just in winter storage. Bought a new house in April of that year and got the bike out shortly after when it warmed up. Changed the oil and bought the new battery, did the dastardly deed, and had to put the bike away while all the packing and moving and settling in happened. The bike was put near the bottom of the priority list while other projects that the whole family would benefit from, took priority. Had another baby in December 2014, but this summer I've somehow found the time to work on getting my bike back on the road. Hoped it would be something as minor as just changing a fuse, but expected it to be much more, otherwise I would have put in the time to find the blown fuse 3 years ago and would have been happily riding all this time. So, background now established, anyone got any idea about what's going on with the throttle issue, LOL. Also, I've taken off most of the old vinyl, and cut some of my own graphics that I've put on and am pretty stoked about. Photos coming soon, and opinions and comments are expected... J
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I just watched a YouTube video of someone removing the carbs off a cbr, and wondered if the process was the same for my 94 zx6. I'm wondering if the absence of any spring back from my throttle is due to the fact that my cables have been taken off of the throttle itself to lube them. Anyways, the video says the next step is to take off the choke cable, loosen and take the throttle cables off the throttle wheel (labelling which is top and bottom), undo 1 screw holding the whole carb assembly to the motor, then use a long Phillips screwdriver and loosen all 4 clamps holding the carbs to the engine. Is this the same set of instructions I'd follow for removing mine? J
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
One step forward, 2 steps back

So I was able to find out today why my throttle cables were not moving, the valves in throttle bodies 1 and 2 are seized. 3 and 4 go up and down with the touch of a finger, but I can't move 1 or 2 to save my life. Even without finding this out today, the problem would have been rectified when I actually get the whole carb assembly out for good cleaning. I looked closely today and unlike the cbr600 video I watched, I couldn't see any central screw holding the assembly to the motor. I think if I just undo the clamps the whole assembly of 4 carbs will just come straight out. Now the bad news. The bike went over on its stand somehow today and was laying on the garage floor for about 15seconds. When I stood it back up there was a crack in the stator cover and oil started spewing out. I was able to let about a litre of oil drain out of the crack and then remove the stator cover. I ordered a new cover and gasket, and will be working on the carbs and throttle bodies until those come in early next week. Gotta put the graphics on hold for a while, maybe I won't be able to ride it this year...:frown2:
 

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Get a shop manual, read it and do what it says. Working on your bike without a shop manual is like trying to find a coin in the dark in tall grass. You might luck out and find it, but you're going to spend a lot of time phucking around asking weird questions. Get the book.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
When you say "shop manual", do you mean the service manual and supplementy manual? I bought those when I bought the bike over 20 years ago. I find them good for most things but if there's another book you'd recommend me getting, I'll pick one up as well, (or download it). I got the carbs and throttle body assembly out of the bike today, it was just held in place by the clamps to the motor, I just had a diffilcult time finding where the heads of the screws were. All cables have been disconnected and labelled and I'll see what I can get done tomorrow.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 · (Edited)
Progress and more questions

The kawi dealership called to let me know that the stator cover and gasket they ordered was in, so I packed up my broken piece and the carb/throttle body assembly and took it down to pick up my order and talk with the mechanic there. Turns out the parts guy ordered a pulser cover and gasket accidentally, so I ordered the stator cover and gasket from ebay instead. I showed the mechanic the seized valves in the throttle body and he said it was more likely just gunk in the needles and jets and soaking everything in a good carb cleaner should free everything up. He recommended getting carb cleaner made by Honda, saying it was the one he had the best results with, this from a kawi dealership! What does everyone else use? I'm not sure how many different brands there are out there, or what the different chemicals they're made of are, but I want to spend the money to get something that will do a good job.
Since the bike has fallen over, I really noticed the amount of lean I get with my kickstand and wasn't sure how to fix this problem. Are there shims you can purchase to change the angle? Should I look at getting a centre stand instead? Or I've also seen adjustable kickstands, are they a better option? Thanks for your opinions everyone.

PS. I work in the chemistry industry and have access to a wide variety of lab grade chemicals I could use to clean the carbs as well, pure Toluene, IPA, Acetone, Dichloromethane, you name it...
 

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I use super tech carb cleaner from walmart.
works great for about 3 bucks a can
I clean multiple sets of carbs a year
anything from lawn mower carbs to
a carb from a car. All I ever use is the
Walmart super tech carb cleaner. I haven't
found a carb cleaner that's better.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I'm on plant shutdown right now and have had lots of time to work on the carbs but without the Ultrasonic bath because the power was out. Butterflies were seized but open smoothly now, and the 2 valves that were seized also move freely. I had to use a very fine plastic type of SOS pad to get the worst of the varnish off the lip edge of the butterfly valves and where they rest on the carb, but everything looks clean now. I ended up buying a can of Carb cleaner that was branded by Canadian Tire, it works quite well. Does anyone recommend any kind of lube to put on parts before I put everything back together now? I should be finished with the cleaning today. I'll change spark plugs tomorrow and then get everything back together after the kids are in bed Tuesday night (hopefully the Stator cover will be in by then too). J
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Got the carbs back in today, with the throttle body cables attached everything is working the way it's supposed to so far. Also, changed the spark plugs, and sealed everything up with dielectric grease. Got my vinyl decals in today, so I've stated working on those too. Slowly but surely...
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
I did some trouble shooting today with throttle issues. Both throttle cables slide freely after I realized it was the butterfly valves that were seized on the carbs and not my actual cables being rusted. They are well oiled and throttle springs back to closed when the bike is apart, but when the airbox is back on somehow there's enough pressure on the cables that the throttle no longer springs back all the way to closed, it can be pushed back easily but it shouldn't have to be. Fiddled around with positioning for over an hour helped a bit, but it's still not 100% and its worse when I turn the handle bars all the way clockwise and the cable is "stretched" as opposed to when the handlebars are turned counterclockwise and the throttle cables are pushed by there position... Anyone run into this issue and have recommendations on how to fix it? Other then that, I added some black vinyl accent striping which really makes my pattern pop. Just getting everything back together for when the stator cover comes in on Saturday, so I'll just slap it on and go (fingers crossed).
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
It's been a couple days since my last update but it's because of a very good reason! Stator cover was picked up on Saturday, installed Sunday morning, and bike was running again by early afternoon, rough low idle but running. I'm pretty sure it's running lean and will adjust accordingly tomorrow, but yay after 3 years of sitting it's running again. Also, still have to sync carbs but I feel confident after watching several vids on how to do it cheaply. Will report in with new pics in the next couple days.
 
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