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Discussion Starter #1
Well my ignition switch shit the bed finally at 33K. Ordered a new one and see that the plug is under the air box. I hear a lot of ppl saying about the air box modification and figured I would do it while I have it apart and can not find a step by step description explaining how to do it. If anyone has done this please either tell me what I do, or pictures would be great to help anyone else who wants to do this. I can not believe I cant find anyone explaining this so it would be a good tutorial if someone has done it.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
thanks good write-ups.. i take it you have done this and what is the gains from it? and this wont make it run any different and need jetted or anything like that?
 

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well, actually yes, theres been quite a bit of talk about it around here about it recently and some wrong information has been bouncing around.

Considering you have an aftermarket exhaust then yes, i would say it will make your bike run quite a bit smoother.

However, you WILL need to do some main jet adjusting if you do it. the idea of doing the mod will pressurize your float bowls with the same pressure as your airbox, and thus make it much easier for the bike to pull in fuel when the airbox ISN'T pressurized, and make it run the way it is supposed to when it IS pressurized.

Most people with no performance adders on the bike will run 150-160-160-150 jets instead of the kawasaki factory 170-180-180-170 configuration.

here's a few more resources
http://homepage.ntlworld.com/webzxr/zxr750r/Features/ken/ram_air_carbs.html
http://homepage.ntlworld.com/webzxr/zxr750r/Features/ventbowl.html
 

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X2 on the screen

Josh
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I just never really worked with carbs and would hate to do these modifications and have it fun like shit after, becasue it runs good now.. Just always looking for that extra little bit
 

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I just never really worked with carbs and would hate to do these modifications and have it fun like shit after, becasue it runs good now.. Just always looking for that extra little bit
The float bowl mod is really to allow more reasonable sized main jets for WOT. With race exhaust, ignition advancers etc the jets were approaching 195-200 which is retarded huge. Basically the valve closes off the vent for the carb bowls at WOT and when the engine is off, but is open at idle and cruise.

With the float bowl mod you would jet way down into the 160s... Or 170/180 with performance exhaust.

The screen makes a huge improvement IMO...

In reality if you like the way the bike runs then leave it, that's what's most important.

Josh
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Well I went to change my ignition today and this is what I found.. Its like someone did half of the clean air mod??










If anyone can let me know what is going on I would love to know.. and also the pictures of the wires were just wires wired half ass and was wondering if anyone knew where they go to.. going to re due them right but was curious
 

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If the connector on your ignition harness is not burned up yet, replace it anyways.

You will thank me later.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
what connector to my ignition harness? I bought a whole new ignition where the key goes if thats what you're talking about?
 

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Yep, looks like someone did the Kleen Air mod, half-assed it seems too. I would take that tape apart and make sure there is a solid tube connecting those rubber hoses together. Some use copper or galvanized pipe, others use plastic. Your choice.

Are you still going to do the Float Bowl Mod, or leave it?

Josh
 

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Yeah, that one. They have a tendency to burn up the white and brown wires because those two carry the full current of the running bike. Even if its new, the bike side isn't.

It winds up melting the connector and burning the "pins".
 

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Discussion Starter #20
I believe im going to just finish up the clean air mod.. do the bowl floats at some point this summer.
 
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