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high guys just got my new 2012 zx14r. i have a question i am thinking about changing the rear sprocket and going two teeth less on the rear. will i have to remove any links from the chain? will i have to get a speed healer to adjust the speedometer ? ps i got a blue one
 

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You may have to remove a link or so. You might get away with sliding the axle all the way back, but then you won't have much leeway for future adjustment. You'll definitely need the Speedo Healer or a similar device to make the speedometer read correctly. The advantage will be that if you decide to regear again, even back to stock, the SH is always adjustable.
 

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high guys just got my new 2012 zx14r. i have a question i am thinking about changing the rear sprocket and going two teeth less on the rear. will i have to remove any links from the chain? will i have to get a speed healer to adjust the speedometer ? ps i got a blue one
Since two teeth less on the rear will give you a higher top speed what is it you want to do?
 

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Quinton Phuckin Tarantino
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200 mph club here we come:crazyloco:crackup
 

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I went with a 41 tooth and the adjustment indicater is pointing between mark 3 and 4 out of six marks on the arm. Might be ok with 2 teeth short without cutting chain but don't forget that if you shorten the chain you will have to live with the fact your chain is no longer a one piece unit. My 41 Brought my speed error from 6MPH fast to 3MPH fast. By that I mean shows 60 but actual is 57.
 

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Is this gearing change for increased top speed, or wheelie prevention? Inquiring minds want to know:evil
 

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I went with a 41 tooth and the adjustment indicater is pointing between mark 3 and 4 out of six marks on the arm. Might be ok with 2 teeth short without cutting chain but don't forget that if you shorten the chain you will have to live with the fact your chain is no longer a one piece unit. My 41 Brought my speed error from 6MPH fast to 3MPH fast. By that I mean shows 60 but actual is 57.
Chains are not one-piece (endless) in any case. Chain is made in bulk length and cut to specific length and then joined with riveted master links, which you can do yourself.

Also, the marks on the swingarm may or may not be accurate. The only way to know for sure is to align the wheels and THEN look at the marks to see if there's any discrepancy. After proper alignment, you can keep the chain adjusted and the wheels aligned by counting flats turned on the adjuster bolts.
 

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wheelie prevention when i go to the track
I've seen in SuperStreetbike and SportRider that they were able to pull off faster 1/4 mile times by dropping 2 teeth on the rear sprocket, even pro riders had trouble keeping the front end down with the torque of the new 14.

They also said that they couldn't launch over about 3500 RPM because of the same reason. This 14 sure is a beast, one the 'busa ain't touchin.
 

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My 2012 came from the factory without a riveted master link. If that is not endless, I don't know what is. I hope that something on the swing arm is accurate during chain adjustment. I eyeball mine using the mark points and justify that with vernier calipers.
 

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My 2012 came from the factory without a riveted master link. If that is not endless, I don't know what is. I hope that something on the swing arm is accurate during chain adjustment. I eyeball mine using the mark points and justify that with vernier calipers.
There is a riveted master, but the factory uses a air-powered riveter than has a head exactly like the one that puts the links together at the chain factory, so they all look the same. Chain is made in lengths, cut to suit and riveted into the proper-sized loop.

Eyeballing is great for shooting pigeons, but it won't align the wheels and neither will the marks on the swingarm. And neither will a vernier caliper unless it has 6' jaws.

For the wheels to be aligned, the front wheel has to be perfectly centered. Then, checking to two long straightedges to the rims (not the tires), the measurements front and back of the back rim on both sides must all be the same and the measurements to the front and back of the front rim must be that number minus 50% of the difference between the wheel widths. Once you have the back 4 measurements the same and the front 4 the same minus 1/2 of the difference between the wheel widths, your wheels are in alignment. At that point, you can adjust the chain slack properly by counting flats on the adjuster bolts to keep it the same side-to-side. Going by the marks on the swingarm is a crapshoot, and you'd be surprised to find out how far off some are.
 

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There is a riveted master, but the factory uses a air-powered riveter than has a head exactly like the one that puts the links together at the chain factory, so they all look the same.
I doubt it. More like they are supplied to kawasaki as endless chains of the correct length and they are fitted at the same time the swingarm is bolted into position. The FSM also makes reference to this in the chain removal section. When I had an RX1000 back in '86 the OE chain supplied by a Kawasaki dealer came endless and required removal of the swingarm. Either that or split it and fit a rivet up link.
 

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I doubt it. More like they are supplied to kawasaki as endless chains of the correct length and they are fitted at the same time the swingarm is bolted into position. The FSM also makes reference to this in the chain removal section. When I had an RX1000 back in '86 the OE chain supplied by a Kawasaki dealer came endless and required removal of the swingarm. Either that or split it and fit a rivet up link.
That may be, but the bulk chain still had to be cut to length and riveted back together to form the loop. They are not made in loop form. I can tell you've never seen a 55-gallon barrel full of one roller chain.
 

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I'm not following this endless chain thing.
I agree with Hammer. it has to be cut and spliced somewhere.
How can they make a chain in one endless loop without having to connect it somewhere?
if it was an O-ring, yes.
if it was a belt, yes.
if it was a chain, no.
 
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