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The owners manual shows a couple of accessory leads under the fairing between the forks and gas tank. I'll look more into it tomorrow and take some pics when I find the one I'll be using for my GPS.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
My owners manual has incorrect pictures. The leads at the front under the fairing trim are strightforward. It's the ones under the seat which are very miss-leading. The actual acc leads are tucked away under the fuse holder which is under the tool-kit holder. Not sure what the wires are for that you can easily see (and easily mistake for the ACC leads) under the seat.
 

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Here's a small update...

I tested the leads with a multi-meter and found that all of these leads are "switched" on by the ignition and only the front left lead is 12V. The two under the seat are 7.5V and .75V. What those are used for I have no clue. I'll be wiring my GPS directly to the battery today since I want it "hot" all the time.
 

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Anyone removed that left hand top panel (the black one), have taken the 3 allen screws out from above and one on the fairing proper but it does not want to give, don't fancy forcing anything what with the cost of plastics and availability should I break it. In the process of fitting heated grips and a TomTom Rider Nav unit.

Any suitable advice would be gladly recieved.

Thanks in advance.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Here's a small update...

I tested the leads with a multi-meter and found that all of these leads are "switched" on by the ignition and only the front left lead is 12V. The two under the seat are 7.5V and .75V. What those are used for I have no clue. I'll be wiring my GPS directly to the battery today since I want it "hot" all the time.
Re the 2 under the seat - are you sure you're looking at the correct leads. The accessory leads are tucked away underneath the tool and fuse holder. These are NOT vissible without removing the tools and fuse holders. The 2 you can see easily are NOT accessory leads and do appear to have strange voltages.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
In addition to the accessory port on the right hand dash, there's an in-line accessory lead under the left hand fairing piece in the wiring bundle and two in-line leads under the seat right next to the tool box. Mine were right in the open were not tucked under the tool box.



http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t163/cc1408/Miscellaneous/P8020016.jpg

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t163/cc1408/Miscellaneous/P8020018.jpg
Not sure those under the seat are the accessory leads!
 

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Anyone removed that left hand top panel (the black one), have taken the 3 allen screws out from above and one on the fairing proper but it does not want to give, don't fancy forcing anything what with the cost of plastics and availability should I break it. In the process of fitting heated grips and a TomTom Rider Nav unit.

Any suitable advice would be gladly recieved.

Thanks in advance.
There is a clip behind the windshield that you need to undo. You might be able to reach it with the windshield in place but taking it of is no brainer and then you get direct access.
 

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Anyone removed that left hand top panel (the black one), have taken the 3 allen screws out from above and one on the fairing proper but it does not want to give, don't fancy forcing anything what with the cost of plastics and availability should I break it. In the process of fitting heated grips and a TomTom Rider Nav unit.

Any suitable advice would be gladly recieved.

Thanks in advance.
In order to fully removed the upper fairing piece you're referring to, you'll need to remove the windshield and the hex screw on the front of the fairing. I simply removed the 3 easy ones and gently lifted it up enough to gain access to the lead inside the rubber boot.
 

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Be careful, those look like the leads for testing the EFI.
There's nothing under the tool box except 3 bundles of wires. The 3 bundled connectors on the right side, which are housed in a block of foam, are probably for testing. I can't confirm that as of yet because the Shop Manual is on back-order. When I asked the technician about the low voltage readings I got on those leads he suggested that they might be on a relay and to try taking readings again with the motor running. One of the leads I indicated earlier also corresponds correctly with the color called out (black/yellow) in the owner's manual as an electrical accessory lead. The other lead is gray w/silver stripes and the book says black. It wouldn't be the first time the book was wrong. I'll try to confirm the readings sometime this weekend.
 

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Garry and Greg,

The rear accessory 12v leads are hidden a little bit.. You need to... remove tool box, flip ECM over out of the way, and you'll find them in a large black rubber boot, easier to move the out of the boot on the rear of it... Fred Harmon has it all figured out and posted... here's the link

http://www.pbase.com/fredharmon/accleads

Hope this removes the confusion... DONT use the low voltage leads!!!

See you on the road,

Jerry
 

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Thanks for the replies, was able to get enough access without moving panel, only slightly bruised one hand doing it lol. Most decent of Kawasaki to save us running power to the front, heated grips, sat nav and givi e121 plate attached so I can fit my givi e52 back box. Now if I can source a taller screen, headlight protector, rear hugger and gel seat i'll be a happy man indeed!
 

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Garry and Greg,

The rear accessory 12v leads are hidden a little bit.. You need to... remove tool box, flip ECM over out of the way, and you'll find them in a large black rubber boot, easier to move the out of the boot on the rear of it... Fred Harmon has it all figured out and posted... here's the link

http://www.pbase.com/fredharmon/accleads

Hope this removes the confusion... DONT use the low voltage leads!!!

See you on the road,

Jerry
Hi Jerry,

Who is this Fred Harmon guy? His home page is something else!

Bob
 

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Fred Harmon has been on the Gold Wing tech board for along time. He now has a Concours14 and gives it all the loving care of tearing apart and putting it back together on a regular basis reporting what he finds and posts it on the net.. He's very thorough, meticulous, and just an all around nice guy. Its guys like him that help us do the right thing when farkling our bikes... Beware.. the new bike has 3 computers and a canbus system for alot of the electrical system.. Not something you wanna hack into and end up frying something.. just to hook up a farkle...

Theres also Rich Riczinger or "Man of Blues" on the Concours site.. He's the resident tech guru for the concourier. Both great guys and FULL of info. Some reading required.. your mileage may vary..

Dont pass up any info either of these guys have to offer.

See you on the road,

Jerry
 

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Very good info. Thanks for keeping us honest.
 

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Thanks for the replies, was able to get enough access without moving panel, only slightly bruised one hand doing it lol. Most decent of Kawasaki to save us running power to the front, heated grips, sat nav and givi e121 plate attached so I can fit my givi e52 back box. Now if I can source a taller screen, headlight protector, rear hugger and gel seat i'll be a happy man indeed!
Have you got any photos? Which heated grips ans sat nav have you fitted?
 

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Will get some photo's sorted, went for tomtom rider v2 (europe) and oxford hot grips (with the new push button heat selector as opposed to the knob). Not totally happy with the GPS mount so in the process of designing and getting built a stainless steel "stud" so that I can mount the GPS between the yokes, once done I will post all details if it works out so that others can follow if they wish.
 
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