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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
SORRY FOR THE LONG POST, FIGURED I WOULD GET MOST THE QUESTIONS OUT OF THE WAY UP FRONT

Ok guys, ill start by introducing my self. Names Kirt, 23, mechanic by trade, 3rd street bike after growing up on dirt bikes and quads... ok now on to the bike

95 zx6r. Naked, 03 zx6r exhaust header with turn down after cat. Factory pro jet "1.7" race jet kit. K @ N Filter in factory air box, no ram air, no air tubes, aiv deleted. Little back story- bought the bike in pieces. Got it back together after redoing the whole wiring harness and rebuilding the carbs, which already had factory pro jet kit. After getting it back together it ran rough but cleared up by the end of the first tank of gas. Unfortunately the rust from the bottom of the tank re-clogged my filter and carbs. Relined tank, and re-cleaned carbs. Bike ran fine up top but was flooding real bad down low and at idle. I noticed fuel was leaking by the needles as viewed from above the bike with no airbox on. I assumed the needles were just worn because the fuel needle valves and and retainers are new. I ordered a new factory pro kit and installed it following the directions perfectly. The only thing I didnt do was re-drill the main air jets, assuming this was already done from the original jet kit. Still had the same issue, CEPT WORSE. I tried setting the float hieghts to 15mm from the Factory Pro recommended 13mm. Still no dice.

So Ill be pulling the carbs again tomorrow and trying to figure things out. Please let me know if you have any ideas or suggestions. Thanks,

Kirt
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
I should also add that I did pressure test the fuel pump and it had a steady 5psi and ran constantly. Is it supposed to run all the time? I know fuel pressure is supposed to be ~2.3 psi max. So I put an adjustable fuel pressure reg on it to keep pressure at 2psi.
 

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I would check the float height in the carbs. If the floats are too high, then fuel will push out past the needles. There are lots of references on the forum to proper float height for your bike. Note that raising the float height reduces the amount of fuel held in the bowls.

On my 1995 ZX9 the float height is 13mm, +/- 1 or 2. One of my carbs was pushing fuel past the needle at idle, and checking the float height of that carb showed it to be at 9 or 10, and raising the float to spec cured that.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
okay so pulled the carbs today and set float heights to 16mm ( 13mm factory pro... 15-19mm stock) The needles seemed to have some play in them so I raised the e-clip to the top spot. Doesnt seem to flood out now. But just off Idle it is sputtering and not revving cleanly. Seems to idle better and is not visibly pushing fuel past the needles.... any suggestions? air fuel screws are 1.5 turns out....Thanks

Kirt
 

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Sounds like your main jet is too big or those needles arent working right. Try using the stock needles with the FP jets and see what that does.
 

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okay so pulled the carbs today and set float heights to 16mm ( 13mm factory pro... 15-19mm stock) The needles seemed to have some play in them so I raised the e-clip to the top spot. Doesnt seem to flood out now. But just off Idle it is sputtering and not revving cleanly. Seems to idle better and is not visibly pushing fuel past the needles.... any suggestions? air fuel screws are 1.5 turns out....Thanks

Kirt
You probably should not have messed with the clips. Depending on the type of carb, the needles dont have much or anything to do with idle. Put them back where they were. You likely just made your midrange lean as hell.

Set it to the instructions.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
christikitty- I was thinking the main jetting might be off as well. Im going to try some smaller ones and see what happens. The old needles are gone. They were very pitted.

Masta Squidge- The needles have nothing to do with the idle circuit on this bike. While I was in there adjusting the float height I noticed they had about 1.5mm play before seating. I simply moved the needle to the point where it was seating. The mid range is still to rich as well. Im thinking about dialing back down to a smaller jet. I just assumed with the open intake, high flow filter, and 03 header that it would need jetted with the common 180 195 jets that are recommended.

When I set everything accoding to the instructions provided by FP I had the fueling issue that started this thread....
 

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there shouldnt be any play at all in them, they should be able to drop all the way down to any clip position. If they are "bottoming out" and the clip isnt seating all the way down then perhaps you have the wrong jet kit/needles?

A jet kit should pretty much be drop it in and follow the directions. Having aftermarket exhaust and a high flow filter on there would only serve to make it more lean, meaning they wouldnt be rich in the midrange.

If its a CV carb, the topend is affected by the jet, midrange is all in the needle, etc. If your midrange is too rich and the needle is as low as it goes, then your topend should be waay too rich.

Of course if its not a CV carb, i have no idea.

But those kits typically are about as drop in and go as this sort of thing gets. I can't imagine the correct kit would have the fuel levels way too high, the wrong jet, wrong needle... etc.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 · (Edited)
Masta- I know they shouldnt have play. That's why I adjusted them. I ended up pulling the carbs again today and went over them from top to bottom again. Made sure every passage was clean and reassembled according to the FP instructions. The only alteration I made was setting the floats to an inverted compressed height of 17mm instead of the 13mm as recommended. E-clips are on the 3rd spot as recommended. I noticed the plastic needle keepers that the springs sit on seem like they are binding on the slide housings. Doesnt seem to affect the bike when running though.

Bike's a lot better now. I still have what feels like a lean stumble around 4500 but it cleans out by 5-5500 and the bike pulls hard. Might try adjusting the air/fuel screw out a half turn. If that doesnt help Ill set it back and try going up one clip position on the needle. Getting tired of pulling these carbs.

Ill let you know how it goes monday when I can get a test ride.
 

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Im saying you shouldnt have had to adjust them. If you had to adjust them to get them to sit firmly, that means the needles were not at the correct position with or without the clips adjusted, because they were bottomed out/stuck on something.

The needles should have been able to seat in position 1, or 5.

I am curious to know how you fixed this problem just by changing float heights? Because if the needles didnt fit before, they shouldnt now. So at some point, something was horribly wrong.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I agree with you. They seat correctly now. I simply pulled everything apart and then reassembled again with the the raised float height. Everything seems better. Ill check monday. It was getting late and abour 35 degrees out. Monday seems like a better time to test and retune.

Thanks,
Kirt
 

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Good deal. Thats two of us today who have gotten things from totally fucked to god damn near good lol
 

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Look at my thread in the 7R section.

My carbs were jetted by a retard. Like, he took the instructions and threw them away and installed the kit without any knowledge of bikes.

My main jets were all in the wrong order, one of my needles had two shims under it - the rest had none. And the float heights were all wrong, and every one of them was different.

Then i had some trouble with it running like shit for a couple days, but it turned out to be just really bad plugs.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
nice sir, seems like we were in the same mindset. You gotta love how people assemble 4 carbs that are supposed to be synced with different parts/ settings in each and expect it to work right. If my bikes better Monday its getting new plugs and prolly an oil change. Hopefully we get some more of that unseasonably warm 65* weather up here
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
YAY, kinda

Sorry its been a couple of days, been busy. Anyway, I got to take the bike out for a short ride today. Bike started right up with choke and idled smooth. Waited for about 2 minutes for a warm up and went on a short ride. Bike ran great, lots of power. Still a slight hesitation around 4k. I can live with it tho. Now I have a new issue. After the bike reachs operating temp it starts to cut out and eventually dies altogether. If I wait for the bike to cool it will restart and operate correctly until it reachs temp again. It almost feels like it is just losing ignition. I checked the voltage when cold and it was correct and 2500 and 5k rpm. I checked again when the bike was warm and and having issues and it showed low voltage, around 12.4v and did not chage with rpms at all. Am I right to assume this is a stator/ rr issue? If im looking at the wiring diagram correctly, if the cdi doesnt see the signal from the stator it doesnt firing the coil. Please help, sucks having one thing fixed just to find another. I just want to ride.

Thanks in advance, Kirt
 

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Might be too rich. My bike keeled over and died in traffic (only at idle)every time it got up past halfway.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Might be too rich. My bike keeled over and died in traffic (only at idle)every time it got up past halfway.
Unfortunately this happens whether im full throttle or idle. It doesnt feel like it did before when the bike was running rich, before when it was rich at idle I could just throttle through it until it cleared out and then the bike would take off. This is almost the opposite... No matter where the throttle is it just cuts out. It starts with a single cut out and then gets progressively worse to the point of stalling in about 5-7 seconds. Almost feels like when a coil is cutting in and out due to lose wiring. I guess I could throw the light on the coil and see if its firing when this takes place. Maybe Ill try that tomorrow also. I pulled the cover off the stator and it looked fairly new. Tried to test resistance between the three wires. Unfortunately my digital multi was acting up. When it did read I was getting some anything from .3-.5, but I had atleast one reading of 367.8. Id like to get a different meter and check it tomorrow also.

Thanks for all the help Masta :mfclap
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Ok so after spending a couple hours riding around with a multimeter strapped to the handle bars. The regulated output from RR seems to be fine and the bike runs good. At anything other then idle... It will idle for 15 seconds or so and then kill itself. If i turn up the idle to 2200 or so It will sit and idle for hours... Right before it dies the voltage drops off down to the 9-10v range... what could cause this? Is there not enough power for the stator to create a field at idle? Havent dealt with motorcycle problems like this before. I couldnt get the ohms setting on the multi to work. I could only get a reading in the M ohm range. So I cant say for sure if the stator has proper resistance, and am I right to assume that there is no test for the RR? Thanks,

Kirt

Thanks,

Kirt
 
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