[biggerboy]

New to this forum. Bought bike off Craigslist for $500. Very clean 22k miles, new rubber, brakes, K&N air filter. Whole bike is there, all plastics good. Bikes oil level was super high, I think its gas mixed in motor oil. Bike will start but either fouls out plugs or last event gas came running out all over the top of the front fender (never seen this before). I'm assuming carb problems maybe in float area.

Will this bike run with the air box off? Does this air switch on top of the valve cover need to work with vacuum through the air box with these CVK kein carbs?

Took carbs apart this is what I found corrosion in the slide needles. I cleaned them up with 600 sandpaper and muthers alum polish. They came out good. I found two small washer on top of the slide needle clip. They are not there one a parts diagram (why didn't someone just move the clips).

The float valves are in bad shape one is scored up towards the rubber tip. And the other three look like the tips are groove worn.

These float valves are $25 each. Any cheap leads are appreciated! While taking the slow jet out of one of the carbs I found the small rubber oring with a knick in it.

Last, bike compression ranges from cyl one 72 across as high as 85. Could the low compression be from a needed valve adjustment or from the gas mixed in the oil?

 

[christikitty]

Id start looking for an engine and rebuild kits for the carbs. You could try the valves but chances are the engine is toast.

 

[Hammerhead]

You are correct in assuming the floats are not seating. For the only $500 you have invested, you can afford to buy some new floats and float needles to make things right. You got it for next to nothing, so don't be afraid to sink a couple of dead Presidents into it to straighten it out. Get the carbs lined out, change the oil and fire it up to let it run for a bit and then re-check the compression. You may get a pleasant surprise. If it sat idle for any length of time, the rings could be stuck in the piston lands and running it may free them up. If not, you haven't lost anything.

 

[rileydeed]

I agree with Hammerhead (wow I thought that was gonna hurt to write, but strangley I think I am gonna be alright)
Another thing, just having all that gas on the cylinder walls and in the oil could cause your low compression. And I hope this is not insulting your intelligence. but did you have the throttle/butterflies wide open when you did the compression test. If not you will definately get a low reading.
Hope this helps.

 

[Hammerhead]

I agree with Hammerhead (wow I thought that was gonna hurt to write, but strangley I think I am gonna be alright)

:evil

 

[biggerboy]

Thanks for the quick response! The thing is if it needs a top end I want to call it quits. Parts for this bike are really expensive because of its age. Some parts are not avalable new. I'm going to put the oil back in the bike and try a compression test with the carbs off.

Question not anwsered yet... Does the air box have to be on to run? This air switch does it make the vacuum for these type carbs to work?

Also now that the float valves have been taken out of the carb cleaner solution and dried they seem to have got their proper shape back. But there is a very slight trace of wear on rubber side of tip. What is the float height for these carbs. Last 145 main jet, 35 slow jet, D&D slip on pipe. Any good here with these jets? The adjustment screw inside the carbs I found to be 3 full turns out. Is that right?

 

[biggerboy]

Compression test with carbs off and of course oil back in.
Cyl #1 140
Cyl #2 120
Cyl #3 150
Cyl #4 130

Hammerhead... what exactly is get the carbs lined out?

 

[Rick S.]

To run well on the street, the airbox needs to be used. To run in the garage trying to sort things out, the airbox does not have to be used. You do need to make sure that all vacuum ports are plugged otherwise the motor will try to idle at about 3K rpm. Taking the airbox off should not affect any vacuum lines. It doesn't on my zx9 which is almost as old as your 6.

 

[Rick S.]

I think what Hammerhead is suggesting is that you make sure all the carb and jet passages are cleaned out. Take all the parts....floats, jets, needles, etc and clean them as well as you can, then blow out with compressed air.....I used the little bottles of compressed air from costco...

Then set the float levels correctly to what it says in the manual and put everything back together. To seal my slide diaphrams I used a little bit of a silicone grease around the edges to make sure they stay where they belong when you put them back together.

Don't separate the carbs from each other.

 

[biggerboy]

Don't have a manual for this bike. Does anyone know how many turns out the pilot screw should be? The float level? Last are the jet sizes okay with the D&D pipe? Thanks!

 

[christikitty]

the slow jet is fine, a good starting point for float height is 14-15mm. 145 is a good starting point for the mains but you may need to go a hair bigger..150's 155's would prolly do better. But start with what you have and tune from there.

 

[biggerboy]

How many turns out on the pilot screw for starters?

 

[christikitty]

start with 2.5 turns out. Floats around 14-15mm

 

[biggerboy]

Thanks!

start with 2.5 turns out. Floats around 14-15mm

Thanks for your help.