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Got my 93 zx7 project almost running. I should not have trusted a shop to do something I am better educated to do, I just had the cash and am getting tired of the R&R process of carbs x 4. This is going to be my last carburetor machine and im ready and willing to do the set up. Got my aux fuel tank out and new motion pro sync stick. I dont know where to start. 93 zx7 with full Muzzy ( the only pipe for this year and model ). I have the stock 38mm Keihins. The carbs on it are also stock from a 93 to 95 zx7. Got em on ebay. I told the guys at the shop to please use the stock needles but they installed needles from a dyno jet kit. I dont even know what else they did nor do i care at this point. Bike is very difficult to start but does run after warm up. Wot from slow and low rpm will get it to fall on its face and almost die. Im starting over with the original carbs. Lookin for insight on what to use. I dont trust dynojet kits but i dont see anything else available?? Do i get a stage 1 kit and use its recommendations? Ive always used stock needles and shim them a mm or 2 and ditch the ones supplied by dynojet. Does drilling the vacuum valve help with throttle response? Im not looking to track this old beauty just want it to run reliably and without a terrible stumble at lower rpm. Im hoping some super smart carb wizard can pipe in with a once and done set up recommendation or at least get me within a few tweaks of the mixture screws for a smooth running Ninja zx7. Thanks if you read this
 

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Got my 93 zx7 project almost running. I should not have trusted a shop to do something I am better educated to do, I just had the cash and am getting tired of the R&R process of carbs x 4. This is going to be my last carburetor machine and im ready and willing to do the set up. Got my aux fuel tank out and new motion pro sync stick. I dont know where to start. 93 zx7 with full Muzzy ( the only pipe for this year and model ). I have the stock 38mm Keihins. The carbs on it are also stock from a 93 to 95 zx7. Got em on ebay. I told the guys at the shop to please use the stock needles but they installed needles from a dyno jet kit. I dont even know what else they did nor do i care at this point. Bike is very difficult to start but does run after warm up. Wot from slow and low rpm will get it to fall on its face and almost die. Im starting over with the original carbs. Lookin for insight on what to use. I dont trust dynojet kits but i dont see anything else available?? Do i get a stage 1 kit and use its recommendations? Ive always used stock needles and shim them a mm or 2 and ditch the ones supplied by dynojet. Does drilling the vacuum valve help with throttle response? Im not looking to track this old beauty just want it to run reliably and without a terrible stumble at lower rpm. Im hoping some super smart carb wizard can pipe in with a once and done set up recommendation or at least get me within a few tweaks of the mixture screws for a smooth running Ninja zx7. Thanks if you read this
Sounds like idle circuit is still clogged up. I would take the bowls, floats, idle air needles/o-rings/washers, choke valves, and slides out and spray carb cleaner through the passages checking for equal amounts coming out of the little holes under the throttle blades. Good luck.
 

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Sounds like idle circuit is still clogged up. I would take the bowls, floats, idle air needles/o-rings/washers, choke valves, and slides out and spray carb cleaner through the passages checking for equal amounts coming out of the little holes under the throttle blades. Good luck.
I agree. No cold starts is an indication of the idle circuit not getting enough fuel. I would buy another rebuild kit and thoroughly clean the carbs with carb cleaner. You can also use a pack of guitar strings in size 9's (9-42 gauge) to help with cleaning the small passages of the circuits.

Dynojet kits don't work particularly well without the drilling mod. Stock keihin and factory pro (FP) kits are plug and play.
 

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I agree. No cold starts is an indication of the idle circuit not getting enough fuel. I would buy another rebuild kit and thoroughly clean the carbs with carb cleaner. You can also use a pack of guitar strings in size 9's (9-42 gauge) to help with cleaning the small passages of the circuits.

Dynojet kits don't work particularly well without the drilling mod. Stock keihin and factory pro (FP) kits are plug and play.
Another rebuild kit shouldn't be needed if it's taken apart carefully.
Carb rebuilding and tuning is becoming a lost art. I'm starting to think about opening a side business doing that for vintage bikes. What I would need to do this on a mail order basis is a bench flow setup.
 
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