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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
PLEASE HELP ANY ADVICE OR POINTERS WILL BE GREATLY APPRECIATED THANKS IN ADVANCE.

hey all I'm new here but not new to bikes.
I picked up myself a 88 ZX750R F2 towards the end of last season. I feel like a got a good deal on her for 400$. The only down fall to it was she was parked for 18 years, in a dry and heated garage.
So I have since cleaned up the carbs, as well as the petcock. I have also changed the plugs along with a new battery. And site enough she fired up no problem. She smoked quiet a bit, but after running the smoking stopped. But I had the issue that she would only run on choke until she warmed up. Then she would die every time you touched the throttle. So with enough TLC I was able to get her to run, and she was quick to respond on a twist of the throttle. But under any load (In gear) I had no power at all.

So now this year sure enough she started right up but only for seconds and she was puffing the smoke again, and after a few seconds she does. But she will start every time for a couple of seconds and that's all and only with full choke.
When I was cleaning my petcock last year the spring disappeared. So I by passed it and put in my own fuel shut off. So this year I believe she may be running very rich as I removed my spark plugs and they were absaluty oil soaked. And was begging to think that the petcock spring was my hidden culprit but from what I have found on here that is not the case. And now I'm back to pulling my hair out again.
Anyone have some insight on where the best place is for me to start?
I'm thinking either valve seals or a vaccume leak.
 

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I would imagine the oil stem seals have gone hard over 18 years allowing the ingress of oil to cause your smoking issue but this wouldn't prevent the Bike from running it would just smoke until the oil is burnt off.
I suspect the Carbs need pulling out again and cleaning preferably in a Ultrasonic cleaner and I'd swap out the Pilot Jets for new ones.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I would imagine the oil stem seals have gone hard over 18 years allowing the ingress of oil to cause your smoking issue but this wouldn't prevent the Bike from running it would just smoke until the oil is burnt off.
I suspect the Carbs need pulling out again and cleaning preferably in a Ultrasonic cleaner and I'd swap out the Pilot Jets for new ones.
I just pulled my new plugs and they are fouled with fuel. So I am back to pulling the carbs again and clean them up and check my float height.
Does anyone know what my float hight should be at, with all stock jets?
 

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You may want to replace the float valve needles/ seats/ o-rings while in there. Likely dried and leaking regardless of float height will flood.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
You may want to replace the float valve needles/ seats/ o-rings while in there. Likely dried and leaking regardless of float height will flood.
Ive got my carbs off now and with the research that I have done and after inspecting the out side of the carbs I have 2 open vacuum lines that are not blocked off.
As well as because when I lost the spring out of my petcock and not knowing until now just how a vacuum petcock worked I still had my vacuum hooked up to the petcock with just a plain and simple fuel shot of switch. Would I have bin running rich because of the vacuum hooked up to the petcock?
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Well I just finished cleaning up and rebuilding the carbs. 3 of them were pretty bad and 2 of them ended up being stuck 1 was stuck open and the other was stuck closed. Everything is now moving freely, float heights are at about 15.5 right across.
I will be reinstalling them back onto her in the morning. I am sure hoping that she is going to come alive and show me how many ponys she has tomorrow.
I will let Yas know how it goes
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
So she is all back together with a freshly charged battery and she only seems to want to crank without starting. Any ideas on where to look or check before I dig back down into her?
 

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You say it was running before you worked on the Carbs then I would suspect it's not getting Fuel now.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
You say it was running before you worked on the Carbs then I would suspect it's not getting Fuel now.
It will start but only runs for maybe 5 seconds. It has to be full choke, and if I touch the throttle she will die out. But since I have cleaned the carbs again and now she will only just keep cranking. I think that is a fuel line issue and I'm going to get new fuel line today. And see what that does. I do agree that I have a fuel issue somewhere.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Up date I got er all back together and she runs as good as ever. But when I went to go for a boot I discovered that I had no clutch so I topped er up and bled the line. And next thing I was leaking break fluid down under by the shifter.
Am I looking at clutch slave seal?
 

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Yep, there is a slave cylinder rebuild in your future and this is common. I’m glad you got it running!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
So my next problem now shows up (gotta love these older bikes)
I did my clutch slave and rebuilt it cleaned it up. Once I got it all back together bled my clutch and got er running again 😎 It then starts to leak oil from the same place as it was from my clutch slave.
I'm pretty sure it's my clutch pushrod seal. So I dig back in and remove and clean the push rod and the end cap.
So when I took it apart I didn't see any seal of any sort. Anyone have any advice and can help me here.

When I put the push rod back in with the end cap it still spins freely and there is a gap between the cap and whatever that part is that the end caps goes into. Is that gap normal? It is that where the seal goes?
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Also I thought I read a post somewhere but can't seem to be able find it again that said to tap the end cap so that it goes in. But that just seems like a bad idea. I want to fix it not cause more problems.
 
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