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2023 ZX10R KRT Edition

474 Views 11 Replies 4 Participants Last post by  Anthonyvanover
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My bike only had 20 miles on it when I was doing a brake test. I coasted around a corner in first, when the bike straitened up I got in to the throttle hard, shifted to second and stayed on the throttle, shifted to third then pulled in the clutch and started applying the front brake. As soon as my foot touched the rear brake pedal the rear brake locked up and would not release. I even tried pulling up on the pedal with my foot with no change. Before hitting a car I had to grab the front brake hard causing the rear tire to leave the ground. As soon as the rear tire made contact with the ground, the engine started to chug hard about 10 times and then died. I had the clutch pulled in the whole time. I started the bike and tried to get it to repeat what happened at lower speeds but could not get it to repeat it. My concern is it'll happen again at high speeds. What should I do?
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My bike only had 20 miles on it when I was doing a brake test. I coasted around a corner in first, when the bike straitened up I got in to the throttle hard, shifted to second and stayed on the throttle, shifted to third then pulled in the clutch and started applying the front brake. As soon as my foot touched the rear brake pedal the rear brake locked up and would not release. I even tried pulling up on the pedal with my foot with no change. Before hitting a car I had to grab the front brake hard causing the rear tire to leave the ground. As soon as the rear tire made contact with the ground, the engine started to chug hard about 10 times and then died. I had the clutch pulled in the whole time. I started the bike and tried to get it to repeat what happened at lower speeds but could not get it to repeat it. My concern is it'll happen again at high speeds. What should I do? View attachment 23914
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Did you buy the bike new from a dealership? If so, take it back to them with your concerns. If it's a faulty caliper or master cylinder, they should be able to replace it at little to no cost to you.
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Yes, it only had 1 mile on it when I purchased it. They came to my house and trailered it to the dealership and hooked it up to the computer. They said it doesn't have any codes and everything seems to be working fine. The rear brake reservoir is plumb filled to the top with no air visible between the top line and the lid. They said that's ok, but I've never known it being ok to completely fill a reservoir.
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There should be a bit of air gap in reservoir, though the cover/seal has an expansion bladder that might make it seem to be full, pull the cover off and view the level.

Could there be a collapsed hose locking up pressure and caliper?

All issues are odd for a brand new bike.
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Yes, it only had 1 mile on it when I purchased it. They came to my house and trailered it to the dealership and hooked it up to the computer. They said it doesn't have any codes and everything seems to be working fine. The rear brake reservoir is plumb filled to the top with no air visible between the top line and the lid. They said that's ok, but I've never known it being ok to completely fill a reservoir. View attachment 23924
There should be a bit of air gap in reservoir, though the cover/seal has an expansion bladder that might make it seem to be full, pull the cover off and view the level.

Could there be a collapsed hose locking up pressure and caliper?

All issues are odd for a brand new bike.
Do what @TaxmanHog suggested. I can't believe they would only hook it up to the computer for diagnostic and not look at it from a mechanical POV. I'm disappointed.
I still have to pull the cap for the reservoir. I also have an appointment with my tuner. He'll give it the once over. He's not very happy with it either.
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I still have to pull the cap for the reservoir. I also have an appointment with my tuner. He'll give it the once over. He's not very happy with it either.
Keep us posted
.. this model has ABS so tech was prob looking for a sensor code (prob rear wheel speed) related to this, no excuse for not doing the standard physical checks tho.

ABS often uses a comparison of wheel speeds front to back as one determinate of how it intervenes.

As an aside please upgrade your braking technique, don't pull in the clutch & brake, leave the clutch in until the last second. An emergency brake method should be the same as normal just harder. Hit the rear brake a tiny amount before the front but only enough to stabilize (causes the rear to squat slightly) as most braking effect is from the front. Front brake, squeeze for a moment to settle suspension then grab as hard as needed. Doing this maximizes retardation & minimizes stoppies and instability, ABS will/should provide a margin of error for the street; ABS is not used on most racebikes so develop a technique that works regardless of ABS. Most decent raceers can outbrake ABS which is just one of several reasons it's generally not used on the track.

This is what my race coach taught me & it works great, takes a bit of practice to get right tho.
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I will keep you updated.
This bike doesn't have ABS. My Z900 did, plus a lot of upgrades and a tune. I've noticed it brakes way different, everything is different. That's why I was out checking how it worked in comparison, which there is none. Everyone said it should have never locked up like that, and then died. So that's it's own thing. I truly do appreciate the knowledge. I'm going to read it a few more times and then again before I go riding. I could stop the Z on a dime. I want to be able to do that with this also. I used the engine brake and the gears a lot, this bike engine brakes completely different. It's going to be a learning process for sure.
I am suspicious of the master cylinder having a restricted relief port, a partially blocked port is not allowing quick enough flow when the foot pedal is at rest, possibly the port was not machined properly.
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Had it looked at by the place where I bought it. They gave it a clear bill of health. When I brought it home I took the cap off to check the reservoir. It was filled above the full line. So I soaked done up with a paper towel. Now it's in the middle of the lines. Just put a full Akrapovik exhaust system on it, taking it this week to get tuned. He knows about what happened and is going to go over it while it's at his shop. Even though it hasn't happened again, I'm still leary of it happening again. I wouldn't know how to go about getting the ports tested or who to even ask where to take it. I'll let you know if he finds anything out.
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