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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi all. I just did a complete rebuild of my 636, from getting new powder coat on the frame, fresh paint on the plastics, and a complete engine overhaul. The only problem I am having is getting the engine back into the correct timing. It's a brand new chain that isn't stretched out yet so that could be an issue but here's what happening... (Also I've read the manual and watch the youtube vid on how to do this but just can't seem to nail it down right)

I start by setting the crank to the 1,4 position. I align the marks on the intake cam with the head, and then insert the exhaust cam with the marks aligned. However when you start to tighten down the cam cover or put tension on the chain things start to change, because the intake cam is pointing down on the #3 cylinder (when things aren't tight the intake cam sticks up and rocks around so its hard to determine where its supposed to be at). I can keep the chain from skipping teeth while I do this but no matter what when its said and done the in mark on the intake cam is usually slightly above or slightly below level with the head. And moving it adjusting it one tooth still causes it to be slightly off. The exhaust cam is almost always dead on.

The only way I can get the intake cam to be dead on is if I move the crank from the 1,4 position but this causes the exhaust cam to be off, again adjusting by one tooth either direction doesn't fix it. And I really don't like the idea of not having the crank at 1,4 while doing this.

I've tried getting it as close as I could with the intake slightly below or slightly above, crank it by hand and it feels smooth, go to crank it by turning the bike on (but with no gas) and it makes a popping noise (like when you put your hand under your armpit to make a farting noise, yeah like that) and cylinder 2 doesn't seem to be pushing any exhaust out.

I've also noticed that as I go to crank through by hand, when a cylinder is at TDC the intake valve is slightly open, not sure if that's right.

So does anyone have any suggestions? Tips or tricks as to how to get everything lined up? Should I focus on getting the intake cam perfect and let the exhaust cam be slightly off or vice versa? Is that popping noise a serious problem or is that normal and just seeming louder because I have the exhaust header off?
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Well I got the timing super close by tinkering with the slack in the chain and taking the tensioner in and out while adjusting the cam positions. Still having the same problem.

To give you a better idea heres some pics and a video.

Here you can see the crank at 1,4
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g135/KnitGnosis/IMG_20120915_161550.jpg

Intake cam lined up
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g135/KnitGnosis/IMG_20120915_161606.jpg

Exhaust cam is super close
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g135/KnitGnosis/IMG_20120915_161624.jpg

Both
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g135/KnitGnosis/IMG_20120915_161641.jpg

But here's a video of the sound its making, plus it stalls out after a few seconds.
http://s55.photobucket.com/albums/g135/KnitGnosis/?action=view&current=VID_20120915_163906.mp4
 

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Did you take the rotor timing wheel off at all and are you making sure the exhaust side of the chain is tight when you put the chain on?
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
By rotor timing wheel do you mean the crank sensor wheel? If so then yes, but it only goes back on one way so I'm sure that's in the correct position. And yes the chain is tight on the exhaust side when I install the cams.

One trick I figured out was to insert and remove the tensioner as I rotate the crank to get the cams to line up. For instance putting the tensioner in and rotating slightly counter clockwise would allow for more precise movement on the intake valve without moving the exhaust valve, then I can remove the tensioner and rotate the crank clockwise to move the exhaust cam without moving the intake cam because of the added slack. As you can see in the pictures I got it pretty spot on.

Additionally, I noticed my valve clearance was off on 3 of the cylinders, so I had to do some readjusting to the valve clearance. It fires up now and runs much better, without stalling out, but I still think my timing is off cause I am getting some flames out of the #1 and #3 cylinders.
 

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You can try putting a flat piece of metal in between the cam gears. That way the cams should not move when installing them.
 

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just another quick question..
are you running a thinner head gasket or had the head decked?

but otherwise some good advice on here.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Yeah I had to also do some tinkering with my valve spacing. Some of the shims got mixed up when the engine was torn down and they were pretty worn down too. I ended up getting a shim kit and some feeler guages and re-doing all of them. It was very time consuming and took some trial and error but I got everything work well.
 
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