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Discussion Starter #23
Just noticed this.....
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The rod holding on float #3 is not as long, nor is it the same shape as the other 3. 3rd seems to be a hexagon and to short to properly brace. Could this cause the float to not act properly and pull in to much fuel?
 

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Regardless it needs replacing with the correct on, I don't think the Hex shape is going to help none either.
Just thought it probably wasn't replaced with the correct one because it comes with the Float and retails in the UK for £31.89
 

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Discussion Starter #25
The incorrect rod does allow for a lot of extra wiggle from the float.
 
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Make sure when you reinstall the seats you also replace the o-rings on them.
Float height can be done with a small ruler or the depth gauge end of a vernier caliper. Gently lift the float and lower it down until the tang JUST touches the pin on the float valve. Do not set it with the floats bottomed out. Do you have a service manual?
 

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Discussion Starter #28
Make sure when you reinstall the seats you also replace the o-rings on them.
Float height can be done with a small ruler or the depth gauge end of a vernier caliper. Gently lift the float and lower it down until the tang JUST touches the pin on the float valve. Do not set it with the floats bottomed out. Do you have a service manual?
I do have the Manual and I should reference it more. I replaced all 4 Seats, o-rings, floats and float needles. I luckily have a LOT of extra parts categorized in the garage. Here is what I was able to accomplish tonight with a bit of starter fluid. Thoughts and ideas?
 

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Is that spitting Fuel out of the inlet's when you rev the engine ? In addition to the Vent Pipe.
There's a nasty noise going on I don't recognize with a 7R :mad:
 

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Discussion Starter #30
Is that spitting Fuel out of the inlet's when you rev the engine ? In addition to the Vent Pipe.
There's a nasty noise going on I don't recognize with a 7R :mad:
Uh oh! Any ideas as to why its acting this way?
 

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I'd be doing a Compression test, tbh I always do a comp test when faced with running issues it's a great Diagnostic tool.
I would also carry out a leak down test but both of these tests require tools most folks don't own but a Comp tester is relatively cheap to obtain.
Additionally if it's sat for a while it could have a sticky valve/s or rusty seat/s.
 

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Discussion Starter #32 (Edited)
I measured out the float heights to 13mm, replaced a corroded plunger needle, made sure all the vent holes in the plungers were visible, they were, lost and found 2 cap bolts. Luckily the metal fan shroud decided to help me catch them, only took 2 hours to figure that out. Anyways, she started up good, no more throwing up fuel from the vents or spitting from the valves. Got the extra fuel out. Now she is idling at 9K, without choke and the main idle screw out all the way. My only thought is that I did not have a specific Pilot Screw turn measurement. Haynes has the non US measurements at 1 3/4 Turns. The 9R is 1 1/4 Turn so I split the decimal and went with 1 1/2. Maybe The Pilot Screw are too open? I believe that the 650 only take 1/2 Turn but I'm unsure....
I also noticed this.
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The California emission system has been deleted, do I need to create a full vacuum or should I uncap that blue port?
 

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No leave them all capped.
If it won't drop below 9k I suspect the throttle linkage is holding open for some reason, Maybe a cable is not adjusted right or something caught up.
 

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Discussion Starter #34 (Edited)
No leave them all capped.
If it won't drop below 9k I suspect the throttle linkage is holding open for some reason, Maybe a cable is not adjusted right or something caught up.
I will post another video before bed. Again, I can't thank you enough for your insights. I know your profile says you are in Tech, may I ask how you know so much about the Kawis?
 

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Not sure what is going on with those vacuum hoses. Number two should be blocked, not number three?? This is assuming the emissions crap has not been deleted.
If your idle is at 9000 with the adjuster backed out you have a stuck linkage (or maladjusted) or a huge vacuum leak.
 

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Discussion Starter #36
Not sure what is going on with those vacuum hoses. Number two should be blocked, not number three?? This is assuming the emissions crap has not been deleted.
If your idle is at 9000 with the adjuster backed out you have a stuck linkage (or maladjusted) or a huge vacuum leak.
It was a stuck linkages. Getting hung up on the lower carb boot screw. Duh moment. No video today. I could not get her started again. I can see the gas, she has compression and spark, maybe I need to check the spark again. I used some starter fluid but that seems to lessen her will to start. That makes me think its not a, not getting enough fuel, issue. I know compression is good.... damn. Maybe I just need to recheck the sparks.... any other ideas world?
 

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Discussion Starter #37
This is assuming the emissions crap has not been deleted.
It has been deleted. The more I get into it, the more I wish the previous owner had not removed it.... seems like it was engineered to function better with it? IDK.
 

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If the emissions are deleted, why the vacuum hoses? Where do they go at the other end? Removal of this junk will not affect starting and bikes run better without it.
 

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Discussion Starter #39
If the emissions are deleted, why the vacuum hoses? Where do they go at the other end? Removal of this junk will not affect starting and bikes run better without it.
The hoses are just connected to each other, the 3rd carb did not have a plug and was simply open. I placed the blue plug on because, well why have 3 plugged up and not the 4th...
 
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Discussion Starter #40
So here is what I ended up with when I attempted to start her up today. The first time was without jumper cables, the second time was with the cables connected.


After I got her running, for about 1 min, but this is what she sounded like. Let me know what you think.


The background noise in the second video is my car running.
 
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