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Discussion Starter #1
18762

Hi everybody!
I have a 2003 ZX-7R that I am rebuilding. I bought this beauty from a customer who had not rode the bike in about 2 years.

I have rebuilt the carbs, new everything, everything metal is clean and free of carbon build up. Took the head off and cleaned out the build up from around the chain as well as the valves.

I took the bike to a local Kawasaki mechanic, as I am a multiple ASE Certification, I know they mean nothing lol, holding mechanic. I have the tools but not the in depth knowledge of a motorcycle expert. I was given a list of things they suggested, $2,700 worth of carb work and electrics.

So here is the issue. The bike wants to kick over, there is plenty of gas, new good starter solenoid. When starting it today, I noticed that when I hit the kill switch, the bike continued to attempt to start. I feel this is the kill switch internals and it should be changed.

The bigger issue, is that when attempting to start the bike, after a few cranks, the left air outlet from the carb will start puking fuel. I have no Idea why.

As always I am sorry if this question has been asked and answered, if so please feel free to tell me I'm dumb and point me in the right direction.
Thank you for reading,
GlubGlub
18763
 

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Those two hoses should join together and then one hose joins up with the smog crap that connects to the front of the airbox.

However I suspect the reason the fuel is coming out of there is possibly because the float needles are knackered and need replacing. I had the same issue on mine. Don't think OE ones are still available, but I got third party parts and they work fine.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Those two hoses should join together and then one hose joins up with the smog crap that connects to the front of the airbox.

However I suspect the reason the fuel is coming out of there is possibly because the float needles are knackered and need replacing. I had the same issue on mine. Don't think OE ones are still available, but I got third party parts and they work fine.
Thank you. It would seem that the smog crap has been deleted. should I just make a solid connection there? Maybe 1 hose connecting both ports, or capping both off individually?
Thanks for the fast response.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thank you. It would seem that the smog crap has been deleted. should I just make a solid connection there? Maybe 1 hose connecting both ports, or capping both off individually?
Thanks for the fast response.
Also, those 2 hoses were just put into 2 holes in the air filter housing.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Those two hoses should join together and then one hose joins up with the smog crap that connects to the front of the airbox.

However I suspect the reason the fuel is coming out of there is possibly because the float needles are knackered and need replacing. I had the same issue on mine. Don't think OE ones are still available, but I got third party parts and they work fine.
Also Also, I will pull the carb off again and check the floats, although they are new. Everything in the carbs are new and synced.
 

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An engine continuing to run after shutting off is often a melted alternator connector. It's a white 2-pin connector under the tank. If it's turning black, it's arcing. If that's it, fix it quickly as it can melt, burn and screw stuff up.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
An engine continuing to run after shutting off is often a melted alternator connector. It's a white 2-pin connector under the tank. If it's turning black, it's arcing. If that's it, fix it quickly as it can melt, burn and screw stuff up.
Thank you. I will check that out as well.
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
Here are 2 pics of what I can see. Electrical is my weakest area.
18771
18772

The second pic is the rats nest of wires under the rear seat. Also, I have no idea what the box with the barcode is. Any clues? *Meaning the box with the barcode in the top seat storage area.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
 

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That is definitely the float valves leaking or completely missing. The bowls are filling and then overflowing out the vent lines.
Be careful that you are not filling the cylinders with fuel. You could do serious damage.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
That is definitely the float valves leaking or completely missing. The bowls are filling and then overflowing out the vent lines.
Be careful that you are not filling the cylinders with fuel. You could do serious damage.
So take the floats out and inspect them. Can I send pic to a trained eye?
 

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Discussion Starter #13
18775

I noticed the float housing is a bit dinged around the edges. Could the float be catching on those rough edges? This is carb 1.

I am honestly unsure if I have filled the cylinders with fuel. How can I check?
Thanks again.

This is carb 2.
18776

No dings on carb 2 float housing.

Here is the float for the 1st carb.
18777

Appears smooth and clean to me.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
What is the
I'd remove carbs and float bowls and check float heights for starters.
What is the best way to check the float heights. Thanks for the response. Really loving this place so far.
 

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That Needle Valve seat looks like someone tried to remove it with pliers, I'd swop it out with a new Needle & Seat to be sure.
If you want to see if your cylinders have fuel in them you need to remove the spark plugs and turn the engine over and this action will force any fuel out of the spark plug holes.
BUT BEFORE YOU DO THIS YOU MUST DISCONNECT BOTH IGNITION COILS !!!!
You don't want sparks and Fuel to meet !!
Mark the Primary wire on each coil before disconnecting so you know where they go back on. (Disconnecting the coils is always good practice when cranking a motor without spark plugs attached and earthed as you risk the CDI getting damaged.
Also cover the plug holes with plenty of rag to catch and soak up any Fuel present.

Here is some info.


 

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Discussion Starter #16
That Needle Valve seat looks like someone tried to remove it with pliers, I'd swop it out with a new Needle & Seat to be sure.
That was me! I simply overlooked how bad it, well looks. Thank you so much for the info.
 
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Discussion Starter #17
I will post more and keep you guys updated. This is the best forum so far for this stuff.
 
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Discussion Starter #18
Here is a much better picture of the damaged Needle Valve Seat. I have replaced it with the old one that was perfectly fine.
18778

I also noticed that in the 3rd, Valve Seat there was a puddle of fuel. There was not a puddle of fuel in the other 3. I am unsure if this is relevant
18779

or just due to the angle that the carb is currently sitting at.
Thanks again.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Also, what is the tool used to measure the float and needle height? Just a digital calibration tool?
 
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