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Discussion Starter #1
As title states, bike runs great cold, but the closer and closer I get to the 220 degree mark, it bogs only when taking off in first. Sometimes it will flat out stall, at which point I either need to wait a few minutes and start it back up, or keep starting it till it disappears. I am kinda stumped. When it bogs I loose all power until it stalls

Steps I have already took.
-New CDI unit
-New K and N filter
-Drained the bowls on the carbs, fuel looked great, clean and not foggy
-New Oil and Filter

Bike already has the Kleen air mod, and is already jetted, and running a 4-2-1 hindle header, with hindle high rise muffler setup

New Spark plugs as well.

I want to believe its something as simple as a fuel filter, or dirty pump, but I don't understand how temperature would effect either of those two things, a dirty filter is a dirty filter, and well, a dirty pump too, unless the pump is faulty.

Input guys?
 

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Too rich.

A rich problem gets worse as the bike heats up, a lean one gets better.

The fact that you replaced all of that other crap first tells me you really don't have a clue what you are doing though.

You also probably did not know that you do not jet a bike to make more power. You jet a bike so that the fuel delivery can keep up with the modifications made to it. Adding more fuel does not just magically make more power.

SOOOO, your carbs are the problem. Not any of the rest of it. In fact, new filters probably made it worse.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I should also note, that if riding on a cool night, and operational temps don't go over 180 degrees, there is no problem, regardless of time riding, so its not time dependent, but directly temperature dependent.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Too rich.

A rich problem gets worse as the bike heats up, a lean one gets better.
Hmm too rich, k, aside from adjusting the carbs, have any tricks? I have looked over the manual, and adjusting the carbs looks like a daunting task, and it's somewhat intimidating, any tips for a carb newb?
 

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There are no "tricks" to modify fuel delivery outside of the carbs. 100% of it is controlled by them.

And you don't just go in and turn a screw. You need to find out at what point they are too rich. Idle? Cruise? Midrange? Full throttle? Decel? All of these things require different adjustment.

You may need a different jet kit, or maybe you just need to lower the needles a little bit.

Or perhaps you need to lower the fuel height or install smaller pilots.

http://www.factorypro.com/tech_tuning_procedures/tuning_carbtune,CV,high_rpm_engines.html
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Too rich.

A rich problem gets worse as the bike heats up, a lean one gets better.

The fact that you replaced all of that other crap first tells me you really don't have a clue what you are doing though.

You also probably did not know that you do not jet a bike to make more power. You jet a bike so that the fuel delivery can keep up with the modifications made to it. Adding more fuel does not just magically make more power.

SOOOO, your carbs are the problem. Not any of the rest of it. In fact, new filters probably made it worse.
Some good info! I should probably add, that the jetting was done before I got the bike, I assumed the jetting was done to support the exhaust.

I replaced the CDI simply because I had a brand new spare, rather then changing things that require money first, I figured starting with the cheapest things would be best.
 

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Good idea, free never hurts.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
The more I think about this, the more I feel it's something electrical related. Let me explain why.

Sometimes when it starts acting up, bogging and such, I can shut it off, and start it right away, and immediately the problem goes away. If it was running rich, I don't think it would make sense that shutting it off and restarting it would make the problem go away.

Thoughts?
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Update, I bought some NGK iridium's, and when I pulled the old ones out they looked exactly like this :


Thoughts? If I understand correctly that's pretty much a perfect color
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I'm starting to think it may be the igniter, If I understand correctly the igniter is what pulls/adds timing as the bike warms up right?
 

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Sounds like an electrical problem to me . When electrical items get hot this is when they breakdown . I would check the igniter resistance when cold and then hot when the problem occurs .Plug looks perfect to me
 
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