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Discussion Starter #1
Hello,

I replaced the two front turn signals on my bike as one had broke off, so I ordered replacements for both so they would match. Wired them up and both work fine when testing.
Tried to start the bike, however and all I hear is a click noise. Anything obvious that I can check to see why it wont start?
Before I replaced the turn signals it would start, so I can only assume it might be related to that?

Thanks for any help,
 

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Maybe a flat Battery due to Electrical instillation, Did you accidentally leave the Ignition on.
Either way first thing is to charge Battery fully and try again..
 

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Clicking is the starter solenoid opening to allow current to flow to the starter motor. But there's not enough juice in your battery to turn the starter so it clicks back closed. Repeat. Clickety, clickety click ...

Either charge your battery to full or hook your car battery to it. Odds are she start right up.

You likely drained the battery while installing the signals. If it was an old battery a full drain is sometimes the final stop before replacement. If it's not an old battery it should come back and hold a charge.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Maybe a flat Battery due to Electrical instillation, Did you accidentally leave the Ignition on.
Either way first thing is to charge Battery fully and try again..
hello... thought of that at first ... battery fully charged and was still a no go. : (
 

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Clicking is the starter solenoid opening to allow current to flow to the starter motor. But there's not enough juice in your battery to turn the starter so it clicks back closed. Repeat. Clickety, clickety click ...

Either charge your battery to full or hook your car battery to it. Odds are she start right up.

You likely drained the battery while installing the signals. If it was an old battery a full drain is sometimes the final stop before replacement. If it's not an old battery it should come back and hold a charge.
Hello,

Ya it's a new battery, but I did check and it's still full charged. Is there a resistor somewhere in the wiring harness that could cause this? Or would the symptom be something else if that were the cause?

Appreciate all the help folks....
 

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Resistor won't stop the Motor turning over it just won't start if it's faulty.
Reading your opening post and nothing jumps out with just replacing the Front turn signals.
I'm not convinced the Battery is good although you think it is, Have you got a Multi Meter ?
 

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I'm not convinced the Battery is good although you think it is, Have you got a Multi Meter ?
Agree. Just because a meter shows 12.5v or better doesn't mean the battery is good. I've had batteries that show good voltage but don't have enough amperage to turn the starter.

Hook it to your car or a battery you are 100% certain is good. In the U.S. most auto parts stores will run a full diagnostic on your battery for free if you bring it in. Any 12v source is safe so you can't harm your bike by hooking it to a car battery.

I've always found water analogies helpful when thinking about electricity. Voltage is the size of your water pipe. Amperage is the water pressure. You can have a 2 inch pipe (voltage) that's just dribbling water (amperage) so won't do any work. Or you can have 1/2 inch pipe where the water has enough pressure to take your head off (or turn an electric motor like a starter). The relationship is such that you can't have high amperage with low voltage, but you can have low amperage with high voltage.
 

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Make sure if you jump it off a car, DO NOT have the vehicle running.
I would like to say that I have done the reverse of this. Helped a guy jump start his truck with my zx7. Held the throttle steady at 5k-6k rpms for a minute. His truck started right up. I don't recommend doing this unless you're prepared to replace some components. I got lucky.

When I have had to jump start my bike; I have found that with the other vehicle KOEO, it doesn't have enough voltage/amperage to start it. With the car idling and the bike off for about 30 secs, it'll start the 7 no problem. Also, to help reduce current draw, I unplug the headlights on the bike.
 

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Make sure if you jump it off a car, DO NOT have the vehicle running.
Please Guys DON'T keep suggesting Folks jump start their Bikes from a running Car/Truck it will at some point end in tears for them, The charging system's are incompatible with each other and often Fuses are Blown if your lucky or ECU's are fried if your not.
If you want to risk it on your machines that's fine and dandy but please don't offer this ill advise to others.. ;)

If the Vehicles Battery won't start the Bike with it's Engine off then I wonder how it starts the Vehicle to begin with, Odd that one :unsure:
Any way to sum it up.
Make sure if you jump it off a car, DO NOT have the vehicle running.
 

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This is one of those topics where the internet perpetuates b.s.

Starting your bike from a non-running car (or any 12v source) can in no way harm your bike. A proper functioning starter will put a certain amount of load on the circuit and if the proper amount of amperage exists it will turn over. Nothing on your bike can be harmed by this. That's just science.

The only difference when the car is running is that the car battery is now having a charge applied to it (hence it's also applying it to your bike's electronics). A normal sized car/truck charges at about the same rate as a motorcycle - 13.5v to 14.5v. Again this would not harm your motorcycle.

The problem can arise if you car is not functioning properly (or perhaps on some very large vehicles or oddball systems in British and Italian cars) and is charging high. This would then put too much voltage into your bike's electronics. Your R/R is designed to convert excess into heat so there's a buffer even if you're getting a bit more than it wants.

Applying too much voltage for too much time will of course fry your bike electrics.

I've jumped bikes from running cars more times than I can remember with no ill effects.

I don't do this anymore because there's rarely a reason for it since a reasonably healthy car battery should work just fine. If it's not healthy you can run the car for awhile to charge the battery.

Also if you have a volt meter you can just check the car's charging rate. If it's below 14.5v your bike won't know the difference between it and its own charging system.
 

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This is one of those topics where the internet perpetuates b.s.
Yep this post I consider fits your statement nicely...

You say " I've jumped bikes from running cars more times than I can remember with no ill effects. "

Does this infer the Batteries of those Vehicles were not healthy enough to start the Bike but somehow managed to start the Vehicle to start the Bike :unsure: :unsure: :unsure: :unsure:
And this occurred more times than you can remember :rolleyes::rolleyes::rolleyes:

I don't do this anymore because there's rarely a reason for it since a reasonably healthy car battery should work just fine. If it's not healthy you can run the car for awhile to charge the battery.

Again it won't start the Bike but will start the Vehicle :ROFLMAO::ROFLMAO:
OK lets Agree to Disagree and advise Members to avoid the Vehicle running to negate the risk of damage occurring to their Bike..
 

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You've never had an issue, so the issue doesn't exist .......

Yep, I agree with your theories. Yet, I've helped a friend unravel a mess in his bike when he did it. You make many assumptions here:

- People grab a meter to test the car to make sure it's not over a given voltage before a jump

- People know their car is operating properly

- Cars never over-volt

- I could go on ........

You even admit the there is no reason to have the car running to perform a jump. 90's Kawasaki's have crap electrical. They are much more vulnerable to electrical issues than an average car. This argument is silly. Just don't jump a 90's Kwak with a running car.

It's like saying, I've never crashed, so don't worry about crashing.
 
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