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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey All,
I just did the first change of the engine and final drive oil. Having read some concerns about the amount of metal in the oils, I thought I'd writes a few words down. I've been mechanicking for about 22 years now, and have done oil changes on everything from Yugo's to Ferrari's, from brand new to over 500,000 miles (1972 Toyota Celica). Many engine rebuilds as well. So I've seen a couple of quarts of used oil.
There was, as we all would expect to see, metal in both the engine and final drive oil. The amount was no more than I expected to see. Heavier in the drive oil, but that should be expected as well. I didnt see anything to cause concern. Hopefully all of your changes look the same, and dont cause you any worry either. Fine dust-like powder is fine, it is LARGE particles or chunks that should have you dialing your dealer.
I used synthetic in both cases, as I have done with every new machine I have ever had; here's why. I actually participated in a study about 20 years ago, comparing synthetic oil with conventional oil, as well as some of the teflon additives (which we KNOW we wont tread near!) Two brand new BMW 320i's were drained of their factory fillers, then driven normally for 50k miles. The oil was changed every 3k miles (cant remember filter interval for Beemers...) in both cars. Both were driven by employees of California based "Oil Changer, Inc", and swapped weekly. After 50k miles had elapsed, the engines were completely disassembled and EVERY component was measured, weighed, mic'd, etc. The car running the conventional oil showed wear consistent with it's mileage (average). The synthetic oil car was different. MUCH less wear (wish I still had the measurements). It was basically still new. Viscosity breakdown was also almost non-existent for the synth. Mobil 1 didnt start saying their oil was good for 5-6k miles until after this.
Anyway, I havent read anything that proved the whole oil thing like this test did for me. Something you could actually SEE, as opposed to just read about. If there has been recommendations that synthetic oils not be used in a new engine, I haven't heard of them, and hope someone will share knowlege. 485 miles, and off to the dealer for the inspections tomorrow.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I used Castrol Syntec 5w-50. 40w is good up to I think 104 degrees. We've had days hotter than that all week, so I'll stick with it. We freeze in the winter so it'll be good for that time of year too.
 

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I agree with you about the synthetic. I changed my oil at 100 miles because I did a hard break in, and used dino oil until 900 miles to flush out the motor again, then changed it to Mobil 1 synthetic in 20-50 weight, because the temperature in Phoenix can rach over 120 in the summer, and temps in excess of 110 are common. I also changed out the pumpkin using synthetic gear oil at 900 miles.
 

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Completed my first service today at 600 miles. When I made the appoint on Monday, the dealer didn't think the final drive gear oil needed to be changed. I told them that the owner's manual indicated the same replacement schedule as the engine oil and filter and they confirmed it with Kawasaki. My oil looked pretty grungy and the tech showed me the inside of the filter which was doing its job nicely and retained the gunk and miniscule filings. The final gear oil look a bit broken down as well, but I didn't notice any metal filings or flakes. I was surprised how little oil the final gear case holds. Probably why they recommend changing it out during each oil change. All other items required for visual and physical inspection were completed without issue. No error codes were found on diagnostics. I'll switch over to synthetic oils after the full breakin is complete (1000 miles). The dealer also confirmed that as long as I keep the receipts for oil/filter/lube, etc showing the dates purchased and kept reasonable records of routine maintenance performed that they would honor any warranty claims. I have a warm fuzzy that all is well in the universe. :rofl
 

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Semi synthetic is a blend of synthetic and dino oil, but at what percentage. You might be paying a big premium for 10% synthetic . I never use semi syn for that reason.
 

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Semi synthetic is a blend of synthetic and dino oil, but at what percentage. You might be paying a big premium for 10% synthetic . I never use semi syn for that reason.

I just read that while doing some research. In addition I read that it did well in comparison with BMW full synthetic mc oil. I got it for 4.99 a quart so looks like I will run it for a while and then switch to full synthetic.
 

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You know Castrol Syntec does not meet JASO MA standards and will cause clutch slipping right?
 

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You know Castrol Syntec does not meet JASO MA standards and will cause clutch slipping right?
WII's right - Syntec is for cars! I use it and it seems to work great. I use Castrol Actevo in my bikes.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I didnt know that! Thats why I asked for advice. Thank wii.
 

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Castrol makes a motorcycle oil that's pretty good. I stick with Repsol from my online dealer. I plan on running 15w50 in the new connie.
 

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Been using Castrol Actevo in all my bikes, never had any problem, always use OE filter. It gets very hot in SA and after 5,000km oil still looks good.
 

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Bikeshop told me that Castrol do not recommend using semi or full synth oils so soon, synth prtoecting too much causing the bedding in to be insufficient.
What is your take advise on it?? Bought Actevo, but they say I should only use it after 6,000 km service
 
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