I'm starting a thread to keep everyone posted on the progress of this restoration. I bought this ZX7 back in 1992 with about 4000 miles on it. I'm the second owner. I rode it as my only transportation all through college and then some. It has about 45k on it now. Through a few moves and big changes in life, it has sat for at least 15-18 years. I think the only right thing to do is tear it all down, replace as much I can with new parts as necessary. I have included a photo taken just before I tore it down. the previous owner polished the frame. I am raking the frame, subframe engine cradle and swing arm to the powder-coater tomorrow to try to get i back to a stock finish. I am assuming a satin silver or satin aluminum will be a good match. I am open to advice here if anyone cares to chime in.
Plenty people here that know these bikes so ask questions.ojisan rider from Hawaii has been documenting his restoration so check out his post. If we don’t get photos of the progress we start to Piss and moan though so the more photos the better.
As someone who is rebuilding 2 H1s from the ground up, check for parts availability before getting too deep.
I tore three motors down and luckily two do not need and internal parts replaced. Shell bearings are absolutely impossible to obtain. Mine were in good condition and within spec.
Getting very hard/ expensive to find replacement parts for the H models. Fix what is required and ride it.
I just sent a message to the mechanic that does all of the work above my pay grade. I would like to know that I have a "fresh" reliable motor after this is all said and done. I will share this info with him. I cleaned it up a bit, so don't let the shiny parts fool you. It has 45,000 miles on it. Here it is today:
I wire brushed the loose stuff off and soaked it in vinegar overnight. Then took a brass wire wheel to it. Cleaned up great. I have been reconditioning parts for over a year just to prep for rebuild. Getting there but patience is needed. Most of the parts cannot be found and if someone is selling them in mint condition, prepare to pay$$.
Here are photos of my pulley which looked similar to yours. Couple hours work to get this result though.
did you treat it at all afterwards? I'll give it a shot. White vinegar, I assume? I'm thinking this shock is not worth rebuilding... I saw somewhere that the YZF 600 may be a good swap?
I will give it a quick shot of black paint but wanted to show how it cleans up. Wire brush off the loose stuff, submerse in white vinegar (10%) overnight, then take a wire brush/wheel to clean it up. Clean off residue with a squirt of brake cleaner. Have done many pieces this way. Do not leave any aluminum pieces in more than 24 hours and rinse off well.
I'm trying to collect parts right now. What do you guys recommend as a replacement shock? I think I read that a Yamaha shock is a straight swap.
is this a good option?
If anyone has an opinion on rebuilding the rear shock, or a good replacement, that would be appreciated.
Another thing I am thinking about is the oil filter... I always had to remove the oil radiator from its mounts, same with the main radiator. Then loosen the exhaust nuts to tilt downtime whole exhaust a bit. THEN I could barely pull out the filter under the dangling pipes. Loosening the nuts on the header was always a huge PITA. Do any of you know an easier way to do this?
I’m probably wrong but maybe the zx10r shocks fit from around 1998 maybe?!?! I seem to remember someone telling me recently but it may of been for my 94 7r
Not sure what can be done to make it easier. 1989 design was more user friendly and is easy to do oil changes.
Swap pans and put the H1 oil cooler on? Lot of work though.
H1 oil pan is different. Oil pressure switch is on the left (vs. H2 on right), slightly deeper (H1 oil capacity is .4L more) and the oil filter is external (vs. H2 internal cartridge).
The H2 system was redesigned to get the exhaust tucked under better for racing and get the filter tucked away. This lead to the H2 requiring partial disassembly just to do an oil change. H1 is better design IMO.
Discovering all the subtle differences between the two as I have a stash of H2 parts that came with my two H1s. As well as an H2 motor which is subtly different as well.
If the pipe is OEM or specifically H2, then no it will not clear the pipe.
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Related Threads
?
?
?
?
?
Kawasaki Ninja ZX Forum
1.1M posts
65.2K members
Since 2005
A forum community dedicated to Kawasaki Ninja ZX owners and enthusiasts. Come join the discussion about performance, racing, modifications, troubleshooting, maintenance, and more!