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'90 ZX7, Africa Twin, M109R, VFR800, RC8R, RSV Factory, Rossi R1,NS400R, Z1000, ZRX1100, 1125R, xb9
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Discussion Starter · #42 ·
Thanks, Good to know, Ill have to see if there is a "fix" for this or something I can use to replace the friction pad inside the switch gear.
 

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'90 ZX7, Africa Twin, M109R, VFR800, RC8R, RSV Factory, Rossi R1,NS400R, Z1000, ZRX1100, 1125R, xb9
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Discussion Starter · #43 ·
The choke should stay on in any position you set it. Should not return on its own. Something is wrong there.
Thanks, I figured as much, seems its the friction pad inside the switchgear (also new to me, never seen that before either)
 

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I'd like to have been able to give you the solution, but I haven't gotten around to figuring one out yet. I don't know if there is another model that could be swapped or cut down to fit. I'm sure there is some type of material composition that would suffice, and I was thinking some type urethane to look for first. The disintegrated block that was remaining there kind of reminded me of urethane...
 

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'90 ZX7, Africa Twin, M109R, VFR800, RC8R, RSV Factory, Rossi R1,NS400R, Z1000, ZRX1100, 1125R, xb9
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Discussion Starter · #45 ·
Ill have a look at mine in a while and see what I can come up with too.

Ill let you know what I come up with
 
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'90 ZX7, Africa Twin, M109R, VFR800, RC8R, RSV Factory, Rossi R1,NS400R, Z1000, ZRX1100, 1125R, xb9
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Discussion Starter · #46 · (Edited)
Tear Down is well under way. I hope to be completed the strip down by end of the week, ie bare frame & sub frame separated, engine out, wheels stripped of rotors etc. ie all down to the smallest parts.

Next up is the oil cooler, front brakes and pipes. once I get there, ill move it off the lift and use a bike jack under the engine, remove the front end and swing-arm. Then ill take off the lower removable frame rails and lift the upper frame off the engine.

That friction block for my choke lever is intact, I suspect its just clogged up with debris or the spring is weak. I've cleaned it and it moves more freely now, but I wont get to test it until it goes back together

Blue shop towels are soaking up PB Blaster which I sprayed on the header studs and all the frame/subframe fasteners.

Video to come once I get to end of the week. In the mean time:

Tire Wheel Fuel tank Automotive lighting Automotive tire
Motor vehicle Automotive design Automotive tire Toy Gas
 

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'90 ZX7, Africa Twin, M109R, VFR800, RC8R, RSV Factory, Rossi R1,NS400R, Z1000, ZRX1100, 1125R, xb9
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Discussion Starter · #47 ·
Tire Wheel Crankset Bicycle tire Bicycle
Wheel Tire Land vehicle Fuel tank Automotive lighting
 
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'90 ZX7, Africa Twin, M109R, VFR800, RC8R, RSV Factory, Rossi R1,NS400R, Z1000, ZRX1100, 1125R, xb9
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Discussion Starter · #48 ·
Tire Wheel Motor vehicle Automotive tire Automotive design
Wheel Tire Automotive tire Automotive design Motor vehicle
 

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Discussion Starter · #49 ·
A question for you guys. The next thing I need to do is remove the brake discs off the wheels. Last time I did this was on a GSXR750, and it was a HUGE pain.

I used a 2' breaker bar and had to use that the entire time to thread them out, a ratchet just wouldn't turn them. The Suzuki locktite was like green glass and hard as hell

I tried heat, and made no difference. 2 of the bolts on the GSXR got the heads stripped and I had to get nuts welded on them to get them out (then buy new bolts).

Id like to avoid that drama this time, any advice ?

What tricks are you guys using to avoid gauling the heads on the chocolate Allen bolts used to hold the rotors on?
 

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I would have said heat to soften the the hard thread lock. Maybe you didn't get the temp up enough to soften the Suzuki thread lock?

Next I would say shock - blip them with an impact driver set at a reasonable torque. Maybe the shock would break the crystaline thread lock.

Last thought, on old recollection, is Kawasaki's thread lock is the rubbery stuff, and doesn't seem to set hard like the liquid thread locks do.

If those ideas don't help, then all I can think I would do is combine the techniques, if you run into trouble with the Kawasaki rotors.

Eta: A tight fitting key, tapped with a hammer to set it into the base of the rotor bolt's head. Keep the tension down on the hex bit.
 

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Discussion Starter · #51 ·
I would have said heat to soften the the hard thread lock. Maybe you didn't get the temp up enough to soften the Suzuki thread lock?

Next I would say shock - blip them with an impact driver set at a reasonable torque. Maybe the shock would break the crystaline thread lock.

Last thought, on old recollection, is Kawasaki's thread lock is the rubbery stuff, and doesn't seem to set hard like the liquid thread locks do.

If those ideas don't help, then all I can think I would do is combine the techniques, if you run into trouble with the Kawasaki rotors.

Eta: A tight fitting key, tapped with a hammer to set it into the base of the rotor bolt's head. Keep the tension down on the hex bit.

Cheers, yea IDK, I heated the crap out of it last time, problem is the aluminum theyre screwed into just sinks the heat away too. Once they were out, I took a piece of the thread lock and tried to melt it with my torch...no go, didnt even melt.

Ill heat it again regardless, maybe try my Air Impact gun too.

I hope its a different locktite.
 

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Discussion Starter · #53 ·
I got them off this morning with zero trouble !! thanks !!
 

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Discussion Starter · #54 ·

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Discussion Starter · #55 ·
So im now prepping the frame /swingarm components for paint. next week I need to go and buy the paint . So...my question for you guys with "pristine" ZX7's is:

Is the frame and swing-arm supposed to be a gloss silver, or a semi gloss silver ? a Grey gloss or grey semi gloss or ?

When I look at most of my parts they appear to be a semi gloss or even flat silver/gray (hard to tell sine time has ravaged the finish).

the down tubes appear to be a bit more glossy and silver but im guessing when new they all started out the same.

So...whats the right colour and finish ?

thanks guys
 

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Discussion Starter · #56 ·

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I can't give you any direction on the frame paint; yours is in better shape than mine. I would describe it more on the shiny silver spectrum than grey. While I'm in the fairing painting process now, I can't do the frame & swing arm now. It's going to have to wait. Perhaps someone will chime in who has powdercoated one in the past. There are some old threads about it, but I don't remember anyone giving paint codes. Colorite doesn't list a frame paint for our H2s, and if they had it, I'm sure it would be as crazy expensive as their green, blue & white bases.

I watched your videos and enjoyed reliving my experiences, lol.
 

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Discussion Starter · #59 ·
Cheers guys.

I got my paint yesterday, had it optically scanned and it matched to a Lexus silver. Im going with the standard base/clear coat. For clear the only 2 options were gloss and flat so Im going gloss. The single stage paints were either not available in metallic or they only have gloss with no flatting agent available.

Ninjanut, those parts look fantastic, did you do it yourself ? Unfortunately the powder-coat company up here is total SH*T (understatement), I've taken 3 frames there in the past and each time I had to send them back to be stripped, and I ended up paining all of them in base/clear. They were so bad I could have done a better job with a stucco gun, too much powder and not enough heat (my guess), they were either lumpy or like stucco and all rough, it was truly shameful.

Now I dont even try. Ill use them to strip and blast, but not to powder coat. They just blasted my pipes.

So im booked in at my buddys place (he has a pro paint booth at his house) for Friday this week, and ill get to painting the frame components then.

Busy prepping wheels just now (not fun).

h00ktern, thanks for watching the Vids! Re the paint codes, I typically just take the parts in to be optically colour scanned at the paint shop, usually comes out ok. My big issue this time was, could I get the correct gloss finish? and if it wasn't silver (just a shade of grey), it opened up the option of industrial IMRON paint. Anyway, all resolved for now.

Paint and body supplies are getting stupid expensive here. it was $72CAD for a small can of evercoat surface filler yesterday! Paint is at least $80 a pint or more depending on pigment (red is more expensive).

When I go to do the bodywork im guessing 2 pints of green, 1 pint Blue and 1 1/2 pints white and pearl.

I buy paint RTS (ready to spray), no mixing or catalyst needed, its all done at the paint supply shop, just filter it into the gun and go. Then I mix the clear & catalyst & thinner and that goes on top.

Started doing my own paint work last year, my buddy is a ex-painter, and retired school body shop teacher so he was happy to give me a few lessons.
 

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I simply dropped off the parts. He sandblasted everything and then powder coated. I was very happy with it and was not worried about exact colour match. I’m not building show pieces. They need to be durable as they will be ridden.
 
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