Section 16.32 for a start.
That one page details Alternator testing, Post up results..
The bike didn't want to start for me. I got it up to 12.5V with the tender I was using. It almost started because I heard the engine go for a split second but then the battery would just make a clicking noise as long as I held the starter in.
When the key was off the battery was gaining charge while sitting not plugged into anything. Slowly trickling up to around 11.50V but would also slowly trickle down if I had to key to on.
I did get some results today by testing the connection from taking out each fuse in the fuse box. Here are the results to that.
I took them all out and tested between the negative lead and battery post. The results are in order of which I put them in.
15A spare which is a yellow rectangle with the number 20 on it - 0.00 mA
10A spare blue15 - 0.00 mA
15A fan blue15 - 0.00 mA
10A turn red10 - 0.00mA
10A head blue15 - 0.00mA
10A tail red10 - 0.00mA
10A ig red10 - 0.00mA
10A horn red10 - 0.00mA
15A ecu blue15 - between 0.05 mA / 0.10 mA
The left number is what was written on the little box I opened and the color with the number was the little rectangle with prongs I pulled out.
I tested with the DMM set to mA and took two measurements each time. red on the battery and black on the negative lead, then black on the battery and red on the negative lead. I'm guessing that the wires connecting to where you put your key in is draining power from somewhere. 15A ecu would give the bike power as I heard my starter making a noise when I turned the key to on as well as my FI light coming on.
I tried to take the fuel tank off but I failed miserably and got some fuel on me and the ground so I gave up on that. The previous owner said the FI light is always on because of the exhaust he put on it. Should I worry about the FI light? I don't know if its causing this problem or not I just forgot to mention that in my earlier posts.
Thank you