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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm not hands on with most of the bike stuff yet since I just got my first bike this past month. my battery keeps getting drained when I start it and run it. I got a new battery first and the new battery didn't change anything, it still drains. I got a new rectifier/regulator and the issue is still there. Then went for a new stator/alternator and still hasn't fixed it. Any ideas on what else it could be. The bike was built and setup for stunting I can ask the previous owner if he changed anything with the wiring. He came to my house to put the new rectifier/regulator in as well as checked volts from some different spots. Would greatly appreciate any help as I have no idea what's going on. Also don't want to have to take it to a kawasaki dealer. Thank you.
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Edit: The first two weeks I had it I was able to ride it up and down my street and at the time no issue was present. Never any light dimming, never any power drops. One day it was just dead the next morning and couldn't even turn the bike on. Put it on a tender since I had no other way to charge/jump it. Got it back to full and another 2 weeks goes by and at the time I had my permit and it was registered and insured so I met up with some friends about 30 minutes away and it was still fine. Fast forward a few days after that and I drove an hour away this time and the bike shuts off 30 minutes later while I was riding. Since then the battery has been getting drained whenever it runs.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
If you want some assistance you'll need to have a DMM to hand so we can run some test's.
the previous owner lived in town so he came and checked some stuff. I had no idea what he was doing at all but all I know is the battery was dropping once it started up. He checked some things under the storage area on the back like a fuse box thingy with his DMM. All connections said error which he said was good. And he checked a few other things as well but couldn't find anything. This was before and after he put the rectifier/regulator in for me. I'll also get a DMM tomorrow and ill get some info for here. I just don't know what to check
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Section 16.32 for a start.
That one page details Alternator testing, Post up results..
The bike didn't want to start for me. I got it up to 12.5V with the tender I was using. It almost started because I heard the engine go for a split second but then the battery would just make a clicking noise as long as I held the starter in.

When the key was off the battery was gaining charge while sitting not plugged into anything. Slowly trickling up to around 11.50V but would also slowly trickle down if I had to key to on.

I did get some results today by testing the connection from taking out each fuse in the fuse box. Here are the results to that.


I took them all out and tested between the negative lead and battery post. The results are in order of which I put them in.
15A spare which is a yellow rectangle with the number 20 on it - 0.00 mA
10A spare blue15 - 0.00 mA
15A fan blue15 - 0.00 mA
10A turn red10 - 0.00mA
10A head blue15 - 0.00mA
10A tail red10 - 0.00mA
10A ig red10 - 0.00mA
10A horn red10 - 0.00mA
15A ecu blue15 - between 0.05 mA / 0.10 mA
The left number is what was written on the little box I opened and the color with the number was the little rectangle with prongs I pulled out.
I tested with the DMM set to mA and took two measurements each time. red on the battery and black on the negative lead, then black on the battery and red on the negative lead. I'm guessing that the wires connecting to where you put your key in is draining power from somewhere. 15A ecu would give the bike power as I heard my starter making a noise when I turned the key to on as well as my FI light coming on.

I tried to take the fuel tank off but I failed miserably and got some fuel on me and the ground so I gave up on that. The previous owner said the FI light is always on because of the exhaust he put on it. Should I worry about the FI light? I don't know if its causing this problem or not I just forgot to mention that in my earlier posts.
Thank you
 

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Initial thought is the Battery needs testing and as your up to speed with the Meter we can do that easy enough.
Remove theBattery and charg it up overnight.
Take it off the charger when it's fully charged.
Leave it off the Bike for this test.
Meter set to 20VDC
1) Take a reading of the Battery voltage Red Probe to + on Battery & Black Probe on Meter to - on Battery.
2) Then let the Battery stand for 4 hours and carry out the same test still out of the Bike.
Post those 2 readings and we can proceed from the results.
 

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1993 Zx-7 L Model, 2006 ZX-10R
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The bike didn't want to start for me. I got it up to 12.5V with the tender I was using. It almost started because I heard the engine go for a split second but then the battery would just make a clicking noise as long as I held the starter in.

When the key was off the battery was gaining charge while sitting not plugged into anything. Slowly trickling up to around 11.50V but would also slowly trickle down if I had to key to on.

I did get some results today by testing the connection from taking out each fuse in the fuse box. Here are the results to that.


I took them all out and tested between the negative lead and battery post. The results are in order of which I put them in.
15A spare which is a yellow rectangle with the number 20 on it - 0.00 mA
10A spare blue15 - 0.00 mA
15A fan blue15 - 0.00 mA
10A turn red10 - 0.00mA
10A head blue15 - 0.00mA
10A tail red10 - 0.00mA
10A ig red10 - 0.00mA
10A horn red10 - 0.00mA
15A ecu blue15 - between 0.05 mA / 0.10 mA
The left number is what was written on the little box I opened and the color with the number was the little rectangle with prongs I pulled out.
I tested with the DMM set to mA and took two measurements each time. red on the battery and black on the negative lead, then black on the battery and red on the negative lead. I'm guessing that the wires connecting to where you put your key in is draining power from somewhere. 15A ecu would give the bike power as I heard my starter making a noise when I turned the key to on as well as my FI light coming on.

I tried to take the fuel tank off but I failed miserably and got some fuel on me and the ground so I gave up on that. The previous owner said the FI light is always on because of the exhaust he put on it. Should I worry about the FI light? I don't know if its causing this problem or not I just forgot to mention that in my earlier posts.
Thank you
Initial thought is the Battery needs testing and as your up to speed with the Meter we can do that easy enough.
Remove theBattery and charg it up overnight.
Take it off the charger when it's fully charged.
Leave it off the Bike for this test.
Meter set to 20VDC
1) Take a reading of the Battery voltage Red Probe to + on Battery & Black Probe on Meter to - on Battery.
2) Then let the Battery stand for 4 hours and carry out the same test still out of the Bike.
Post those 2 readings and we can proceed from the results.
Before you do that, test for a parasitic draw. Remove only the negative battery cable. Attach the clip from a test light to the negative cable end, and touch the other end to the negative post of the battery. If it lights up, you have something draining the battery. You pull fuses until you find the offending circuit.
 

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Really ?
How to confuse the Bloke !
Your Jumping to a Parasitic Drain when clearly the op has a Battery issue and as any half sharp Tech would know we need a good Battery before moving forward with Diagnostics.

He tried to start the Bike and within a short time the Starter Solenoid was clicking !

I'll Bow out of this thread or Brishin won't know if he's on his Head or his Arse :rolleyes:
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
i missed your post on testing the battery out of the bike. I had it on a tender and it got to 12.2V and when i out it back in the bike it was 11.5V
i heard the engine start to go but then the clicking came. I just bought this battery 3-4weeks ago after the first time the bike died while riding it.
 

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Really ?
How to confuse the Bloke !
Your Jumping to a Parasitic Drain when clearly the op has a Battery issue and as any half sharp Tech would know we need a good Battery before moving forward with Diagnostics.

He tried to start the Bike and within a short time the Starter Solenoid was clicking !

I'll Bow out of this thread or Brishin won't know if he's on his Head or his Arse :rolleyes:
Why go through extra steps of taking the battery out, putting it back in, taking it back out, etc. It's a simple T/S step that the OP can take to ensure that he does or doesn't have a parasitic draw. Why else would a new battery drain after sitting? The normal discharge that occurs after sitting overnight does not account for a dead battery. Plus, he's got a new battery.

If this was a battery issue, his bike wouldn't have started at all. He's replaced all of the other components that are part of the charging system and his battery is still dying.

Don't choose to stop helping a fellow forum member because I or someone else mentions to test for a possible cause of a draining battery. It hasn't even been discussed as part of the T/S steps. Keep it simple.

Have your battery load tested to ensure it's still good. That's my only concern at this point. I'll bow out now since I stepped on somebody's toes.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Why go through extra steps of taking the battery out, putting it back in, taking it back out, etc. It's a simple T/S step that the OP can take to ensure that he does or doesn't have a parasitic draw. Why else would a new battery drain after sitting? The normal discharge that occurs after sitting overnight does not account for a dead battery. Plus, he's got a new battery.

If this was a battery issue, his bike wouldn't have started at all. He's replaced all of the other components that are part of the charging system and his battery is still dying.

Don't choose to stop helping a fellow forum member because I or someone else mentions to test for a possible cause of a draining battery. It hasn't even been discussed as part of the T/S steps. Keep it simple.

Have your battery load tested to ensure it's still good. That's my only concern at this point. I'll bow out now since I stepped on somebody's toes.
um i dont know if hes mad at me but i took the battery out and have it on a tender. ive had it on like for the past 6 hours and check it here and there with the volt meter. just checked it a bit ago and it was reading 13.2V and when i was testing with the volt meter i saw it dropping. I put it back on since i wanna see how high it can go then im going to leave it off for a few hours and check again
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
um i dont know if hes mad at me but i took the battery out and have it on a tender. ive had it on like for the past 6 hours and check it here and there with the volt meter. just checked it a bit ago and it was reading 13.2V and when i was testing with the volt meter i saw it dropping. I put it back on since i wanna see how high it can go then im going to leave it off for a few hours and check again
battery read at 13.2 when i took it off and 4 hours later its sitting at 12.8
 

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battery read at 13.2 when i took it off and 4 hours later its sitting at 12.8
Take it to your local auto parts store and have them load test it for what it's rated.

IMO, I think this new battery took a hit this last time it got drained.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Take it to your local auto parts store and have them load test it for what it's rated.

IMO, I think this new battery took a hit this last time it got drained.
put the battery back in. 12.7ish when the bike was off. 11.8 when the bike was running/turned the key to on. didnt gain voltage or really drop when revving. it was just slowly dropping overtime. turned the bike off and the battery jumped back up to 12.5ish
 
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