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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
To make a long story short I cannot figure out why my Fuel pump relay circuit will not work. I have replaced the main harness (needed it, due to mice) and installed a new fuel pump. I checked the relay switches for the ECU and Fuel pump using the batt to activate the electro mag and a multi meter to check the switch and they operate correctly. I have no FI codes. The kick-stand switch, the engine kill switch were tested and working. I also replaced the tip sensor !

I then started to check the voltage potential for the relay parts. (see img)
The ECU relay flicks on (I can feel it trigger) and has almost total voltage drop across the BR &BK/Y.
The Fuel Pump relay does not activate, but has 11.85v on either side of terminal R & BR/Y.
The BR/Y go directly to ECU, is my ECU toast? I have searched everywhere I could and I am out of ideas, someone help please!

 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
I bought a brand new fuel pump, and a new/used ecu on ebay, changed out and still having same issue. So I’ve basically replaced every part in the fuel system and still no dice. Anyone have any suggestions as to what may cause the Fuel pump circuit not to work?
 

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this might be a dumb question but did you swap the relay
 

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this might be a dumb question but did you swap the relay
My bet is on the relay too. Because if you have voltage at w/y and the switch is closed, you should also see voltage at w/r. That's if you prob w/r and place the other prob to ground.

I noticed you checked the relay but I would like to know more detail on how you did this.


I would also check for continuity from w/r on relay 5 to ground. If there is none, check w/r to the fuel pump terminal w/r, then bk/y to ground. There would be a discontinuity in there somewhere.
 

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fuel pump don't work... needs a turbo
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Needs turbo? haha what it needs is to work and get sold. Less than 3k mi on bike, should be mint...

I swapped out the relays that came with new/used harness. Correct me if I'm wrong but the ecu and fuel pump relays are interchangeable. I've tried cycling through different ones I have and get all the same results.

It was suggested on a diff forum to check for spark as well. I will have time to check these Sat night or Sunday morning. I will post pics and results by sunday night of multi meter readings. That's if I don't hit big at Foxwoods tonight.

Thanks for responses, any other suggestions are much appreciated!


Sent from my iPhone using Motorcycle.com Free App
 

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it was a Jeremy Clarkson refence. yup if you swapped relays and still giving problems i would check spark, coil sticks... what is the bike doing exactly. are you hearing the fuel pump kick on . its quite loud on the 03-04 ... any mods. to fuel system such as pc3
 

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Really stupid suggestion here but, can you check the wires from the relay to the pump for a break? If you have power at the relay but not at the pump it could be as simple as a bad wire.
 

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Really stupid suggestion here but, can you check the wires from the relay to the pump for a break? If you have power at the relay but not at the pump it could be as simple as a bad wire.
+1 good thinkin. check all wires for bare copper, breaks, or grounding out
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Yes, I just tested everything again. I was a bit off on the diagram I provided (corrections below). I have 4 of the same to swap out with, one for ECU relay and one for the Fuel Pump relay from the old wire harness and two others from the new/used harness I just put in. All of the relays seem to work fine on ECU circuit but not on Fuel pump. Jumping the relay causes the fuel pump to kick on, but just run and run and run (normally it runs for a few seconds and then stops.

I tested each relay and they all seem to test fine. They were tested by providing power and ground from the ECU circuit. Each side was tested for voltage and resistance. On the switch side of the relay I had an average resistance of 100 ohms. Testing for voltage with (lead on ground) I had approx 11.52-11.6V on power and 0.16v on ground side. On the load side of relay resistance with power off was OL and 0.1 ohms with key on. All but one of these relays were very close to each other.

I went back and tested for power a fuel pump See picture below. Upon key turn I got: on red/blk wire 10.75V. On the yellow/red wire I got 0v. ground tested 0.001 ohm resistance(or checking for cont, it beeped). Someone correct me if I’m wrong but the red/blck is power suppy (which it has), black/white is ground and yellow/red is signal?



On the connector red/black connects to black/teal, yellow/red connects to red/white (and has good con straight to fuel pump relay, 0.1 ohms resistance), Black/white is connected to black/yellow (tested good to ground). There is also a 4th wire on the wire harness side brown/black and is connected to what looks like a terminator/blank cap. Both new and old fuel pumps are the same.












I checked the tip sensor and is installed correctly with arrow pointed up.







Tested for spark and ****No spark**** this thing keeps getting worse.
 

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A few thoughts.
1. Is the stop engine switch on or off?(yes it's a very stupid question but sometimes the simplest solution is the right one.)
2. Why are you getting less than 11 volts at the fuel pump? A fully charged battery has about 13.2 volts and running it should be around 14.
3. When you turn the key on do you get any voltage at the pump without jumping power to it?
4. Is the FI light on? What code is it indicating?
I have the book for an 05-06 book and I don't think the bikes are too different.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
A few thoughts.
1. Is the stop engine switch on or off?(yes it's a very stupid question but sometimes the simplest solution is the right one.)
2. Why are you getting less than 11 volts at the fuel pump? A fully charged battery has about 13.2 volts and running it should be around 14.
3. When you turn the key on do you get any voltage at the pump without jumping power to it?
4. Is the FI light on? What code is it indicating?
I have the book for an 05-06 book and I don't think the bikes are too different.
1. I have checked the switch, and it seems to be working properly (wont turn over when its off and will when its on). I have also checked it with a multi meter.

2. Voltage is low because i had been cranking the bike over (troubleshooting). It should be sitting on the charger now if the mice didnt eat that too.

3. not from the yellow wire, only red

4. no FI light.

One guy suggested i check the resistor in the ignition switch. I will be checking that sometime this week/weekend.
 

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Ok, sorry if some things seem overly stupid but you never know lol. The power to the red wire, does it stay on or shut off after a few seconds? Is that the wire you jump to get the pump working or is it the yellow wire that powers the pump up? Forgive me for asking so much I'm trying to picture what's happening without opening book every time or checking my own bike.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Ok, sorry if some things seem overly stupid but you never know lol. The power to the red wire, does it stay on or shut off after a few seconds? Is that the wire you jump to get the pump working or is it the yellow wire that powers the pump up? Forgive me for asking so much I'm trying to picture what's happening without opening book every time or checking my own bike.
Oh its fine. I keep double and triple checking anything anyone suggests. You never know when you miss something. The power is always ava with key on, but I never thought to check it with the key off (will do tonight). yellow/red connects to red/white (and has good con straight to fuel pump relay, 0.1 ohms resistance from pump to relay) and if I jump it (bypass the relay) it works but not proper, just runs and never shuts off like it normally should.

Im going to check the ignition system out using the service man as someone else had suggested. First thing I was told to look at was " resistor in the stock ignition switch that lets the ecu know the bike is being started with a key and not being hot wired". He said to check that and the output should be around 7 volts(ill check service man to ensure that is proper).

I will post my results later tonight.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
it was a Jeremy Clarkson refence. yup if you swapped relays and still giving problems i would check spark, coil sticks... what is the bike doing exactly. are you hearing the fuel pump kick on . its quite loud on the 03-04 ... any mods. to fuel system such as pc3
sorry i didn't catch your questions earlier. something is causing the fuel pump to not receive voltage from the relay. I believe the circuit from the relay is the signal circuit that tells the fuel pump to turn on an off. This is all assuming power is red and black is ground (which both seem to check out fine. red/blk wire 10.75V-low due to uncharged batt from trouble shooting and black has .001 ohm resistance to ground.) no mods, all stock and only 3k mi.

Relays seem to check out fine. what I am thinking is that the other side to the relay goes straight to the ECU (correct me if im wrong), so something else is telling the ECU to not turn the fuel pump system on.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
I was not able to get very far tonight. I cant seem to find anywhere in the service manual the specs of what i should be getting for voltages. normally in there it lists : removal, installation and inspection and state the specs there. It just says see ch 16 for that but there isnt anything in ch 16 for it

I was able to learn from the wiring diagram that the switch operates off of the brown and white wires, however there are 5 different wires going to the ignition switch at the connector.

Blue=12.21
Red=12
Gray=9.53
White=12.39 (is hot on or off) and drops approx .20v when key is turned
Brown=12.25

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I attempted to put it in to dealer mode 1 so see if it would blink any codes and nothing happened. service man states to turn ign switch and ground out diag pin to chassis for mode 1.

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I also started to look into a few more things the service man instructed.

Interlock system - checked out per service man specs. stated needed 4v or more and got 12v
 
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