|Topic Review (Newest First)|
|06-25-2019 10:32 PM|
|06-14-2019 09:09 PM|
The front sprocket is exceedingly tight from the factory and requires lots of effort to undo the first time (I've had three gen 4 zx-10rs). An impact wrench and a short air hose are often necessary to get that first one undone. I know of people who have cut theirs off in desperation!
A mechanic changed out my first front sprocket on this current bike but he had to move his compressor to right next to my bike to reduce the pressure loss from the air lines in his shop. What alarmed the hell out of me though was that when I then subsequently changed the front sprocket myself, after deforming the washer, the nut was finger tight! Seriously! It undid by hand!! I had words with the mechanic and vowed to never use them again. Fast forward to the next chain/sprocket change and exactly the same thing happened: the front sprocket nut was again *finger* tight. And I know that I torqued it up to precisely the right setting with a Warren and Brown torque wrench, rear wheel held in place by a block of wood through the rear wheel and the washer properly deformed.
So, what's happening here? I'm not sure, but something to watch out for. And yes, I cleaned the thread on the bolt and inside the nut too in case of any binding.
|06-13-2019 06:12 PM|
|The Heater||Buy a front wheel stand you can push the front wheel into. I swear by Condor front wheel stands. Leave rear wheel on pavement. You should not need a pneumatic impact wrench. Use a Propane torch to slightly heat just the nut after flattening the tabs on the lock device under the nut. Use a 1/2 inch drive torque wrench and six sided socket. It should loosen. If you use an impact wrench, set at lowest setting, do a couple short bursts. If nut does not move, increase to next setting, do a few short bursts. Just until it begins to slightly move. Impact wrenches can easily damage the shaft threads or destroy them.|
|06-09-2019 07:20 AM|
|quisp||2 x 4 through rear wheel and someone holding rear brake .|
|06-08-2019 10:53 PM|
|olajoe808||A breaker or an impact should get it off. did you block the wheel? In about 55k miles on Kawasaki the axles and front sprocket always use less torque then the manual never have problems later with removal or any things coming loose.|
|06-08-2019 02:12 PM|
A little judiciously-applied heat to the nut may help break it loose.
The last three I removed required an impact, one a 1" drive with 200 psi in the hose.
|06-08-2019 12:48 PM|
Breaker bar and a can of MAN will get it off.
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|06-08-2019 11:14 AM|
Originally Posted by KawaiFamily View Post
At the very least, you need a good quality six-sided socket and a large breaker bar.
If that won't shift it, you will need an impact wrench with a matching impact socket.
I had to bring one particularly stubborn one to a local truck tyre specialist.
Ride bike there, remove sprocket cover, use huge 1" drive impact wrench
to remove 27mm nut.....
Once that was done, I tightened the sprocket nut to a more reasonable
torque, refitted the sprocket cover and rode the bike back home to change
the chain and sprockets. The nut was fairly easy to remove on the second
|06-08-2019 09:44 AM|
|06-08-2019 09:43 AM|
Front Sprocket nut!!
Changing out my chain and sprockets. For some reason I can not get the drive nut off the front sprocket!! Do not have a impact or anything powerful! Was wondering if there were any other way to get it off?