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  Topic Review (Newest First)
03-28-2013 09:42 PM
e1_ZX-9r
Post Carbtune Pro 4 carb sync cold start - 2002 ZX-9R F1

Sorry, no big sound, revving or any of that.

This is an example of a cold start on my F1 and how mine idles after having its throttle bodies synchronized. Engine takes a solid couple of minutes to break the 104° F mark.



And a similar video from 2011, except the E1 is already warm.



For a fun science experiment, if you have a 2.1 or 5.1 sound system (with a subwoofer), invite your family pet in while you play each video. I'm curious to how they will react.
03-18-2013 06:48 AM
LeeCig
Re: Carburetor synchronization/synchronisation - 45 minute Do-It-Yourself

No pics or anything, just this exact OP word for word, and the location was the same so I figured it was you. Yes the dates were only a few days difference
03-15-2013 09:27 PM
e1_ZX-9r
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lee1111 View Post
... Also saw the same post on Kawiforums I believe. I was about to let you know you'd been plagiarized, then I realized it was you with a different screen name
??? I haven't been active over there for years and if there's a thread with my bike's pics, that ain't me.

Hope they plagiarized well enough to come to the same conclusions.

BTW, place a shop rag under your carbs to catch things you drop.
03-15-2013 09:17 PM
LeeCig
Re: Carburetor synchronization/synchronisation - 45 minute Do-It-Yourself

Yea it was my first time. I had already spent more time than I needed to when I went looking for answers. This resulted in a couple of rage posts This morning I just went out there bit the bullet and borrowed the nipples for each pair of carbs I was on. Kept dropping it on the #2 carb.......... This resulted in having to remove the bottom coolant hose to retrieve it. By the time I got to the 3 & 4,I just removed the coolant hose by 3 because I couldn't be bothered with it. Also discovered that since I was only using two of the hoses that came with my needle style manometer, I could use one over the nipple as I was trying to get it screwed in to keep from dropping it as much.

Thanks for this thread e1. It finally led me to my answers. Also saw the same post on Kawiforums I believe. I was about to let you know you'd been plagiarized, then I realized it was you with a different screen name
03-15-2013 04:36 PM
e1_ZX-9r
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lee1111 View Post
Re-read that thread again. My problem is that there are no vacuum nipples on 2 & 3. I will see if I can locate some at the hardware store tomorrow to keep from having to switch them around two extra times as mentioned. My manometer didn't come with any.
Others have been unsuccessful looking there, but you might get lucky. I'd look in the plumbing and irrigation isles for something in the 6mm ID range; you want the nipple to seal. You may be able to thread in a drip irrigation coupler or even a slow drip unit:

03-15-2013 04:16 PM
e1_ZX-9r
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lee1111 View Post
There are nipples on each of the float chambers.
First time?

If the bike is OEM and unmodified, typically you'll find the vacuum nipples as said, beneath each intake port. You can kind of tell that's where my CarbTune Pro 4 lines are connected to.



On modified bikes or perhaps 49-state (no CA emissions equipment) bikes, there will be a blank bolts, which doesn't really matter, because the CarbTune Pro 4 comes with 4 x 6mm plastic nipples that can be used temporarily.

CVK or CVR, same procedure, with the exception that CVR 9Rs can be synchronized with their airbox on. CVK I've don't this procedure enough times on both bikes, that having the brass OEM nipples and all the OEM vacuum plumbing attached greatly simplifies the overall process.
03-14-2013 07:53 PM
LeeCig
Re: Carburetor synchronization/synchronisation - 45 minute Do-It-Yourself

Re-read that thread again. My problem is that there are no vacuum nipples on 2 & 3. I will see if I can locate some at the hardware store tomorrow to keep from having to switch them around two extra times as mentioned. My manometer didn't come with any.

Quote:
Originally Posted by D-CON View Post
Sync'd up the carbs yesterday and I got that "being pulled by a freight train" feeling back during acceleration. Here's a lil custom plumbing I did to accomodate my setup. I installed vacuum nozzles on carbs 2 & 3 (1 & 4 were connected to the KLEEN plumbing) so all four carbs have them to make my life easier without swapping nuts and nozzles all the time. That said, I needed to block-off said nozzles and rigged up this fine piece of engineering awe: (3/16" hose and T's)


and installed:


took it for a short test ride and this lil piggy cried "WE-WE-WEEEEE" all the way 'round atlanta
03-14-2013 07:41 PM
LeeCig
Re: Carburetor synchronization/synchronisation - 45 minute Do-It-Yourself

Quote:
Originally Posted by Lee1111 View Post
There are nipples on each of the float chambers.
Aaaaaand those are drains.

I found this picture, so I believe I have found the right ports, but I'm just not sure how I can get all 4 synced at the same time.. I guess I could borrow the nipple off of 4, do 1 & 2, switch them over to 3&4, then use 2&3 to do all 4 carbs. If that's the case then I should have just bought the damn manometer with two Guages and saved myself some money
03-14-2013 06:58 PM
LeeCig
Re: Carburetor synchronization/synchronisation - 45 minute Do-It-Yourself

There are nipples on each of the float chambers.
03-14-2013 06:26 PM
LeeCig The manual says, "The take-off point for each cylinder is located at the base of the cylinder head intake port, directly beneath the carb intake rubber. Depending on model, the take-off port will have either a blanking bolt or an adapter fitting screwed into it." I found 2 bolts in the middle on the intake, and the two intake ports on the outside have hoses attached. My adapters that came with the manometer are not the same thread diameter as the bolts in the middle. I'm not sure where to go from here.
03-14-2013 06:18 PM
LeeCig
Quote:
Originally Posted by e1_ZX-9r View Post
The Carbtune vacuum hoses are attached, in order, to their respective intake vacuum nipples (#92150). You remove/pop-off the existing vacuum hose, attach the Carbtune hose, sync the carbs, then reattach the existing vacuum hose to its exact intake vacuum nipple.

Picture compliments of CyclePartsNation.com

I found this thread in search, and thought, FINALLY. e1 has a zx9, I'll be able to figure out where to connect these damn hoses. Get down to this post...Oh yes, finally here it is...NO PICTURE.


Between this thread, my haynes manual, and the cycleparts break down of the 03 zx9r carbs, I still can't seem to figure out. e1, turn on your flashlight and shed some light for me please....They are CVK just for reference

Here's a new link for 03 carb parts breakdown
http://www.cyclepartsnation.com/oemp...82e/carburetor
08-16-2012 10:54 PM
e1_ZX-9r
Adding some photos to help out

Eyeglass blade screwdriver used to adjust the pilot air screws symmetrically prior to the throttle body synchronization.

Tip #1: For the E* & F (2000 - 2003) models, Kawi recommends 1 5/8 turns on the pilot air screws, although 1 1/2 resulted in an increase in MPG, as well as, better hot starting. At 2.0 turns fuel consumption increased about 20% and mid-range throttle response turned lumpy. Both my 9Rs prefer 1 1/2 turns and easily eclipse 50 MPG except under the most extreme riding. (see Fuelly.com)

On the E1/E2 models the airbox can remain on, since the three synchronization screws face towards the back. Noted in the picture are the clear restrictor tubes, whose job it is to even out vacuum pulses.

A closer look at both the restrictor tube inserts (note #4) and the vacuum nipple locations under the intake boots (1998 - 2003, perhaps other models too).

This last photograph is not necessarily relevant to performing a carb sync, but I wanted to point out various items that some of your 9Rs may or may not have.
1) Leftmost: see the electronic connectors for the float bowl fuel cut-off solenoids.
2) Bottom center: original fuel filter, at that time with 54,000 miles on it.
3) Top Center: fuel pump
4) Right of top center: California emissions plumbing (blue/blk tubing).
5) Bottom right: California emissions charcoal canister (black rectangle).

* Pictured: 2000 ZX-9R E1 California (CA) model
09-03-2011 10:15 PM
e1_ZX-9r
Quote:
Originally Posted by Masta Squidge View Post
Probably not, mine seems to be more of the rich thing, which would be only a fourth indication of it.
Floats have probably never been properly set. My bike has been abused.
You'll definitely want to experiment with all the various settings the FP way.

As for the "dry/flat spot" concept, it is my understanding that between fuel circuits there are RPM spots where fuel delivery isn't linear. For instance, on my CVKD equipped 2002, I experimented with 14mm, where 13mm is stock: meaning 1mm leaner. I immediately noticed throttle lag, stripped the bike and put them back to 13mm.



Raising fuel height with the float will help smooth out the transition from pilot (slow) jet to jet needle.
09-02-2011 06:46 PM
Masta Squidge Probably not, mine seems to be more of the rich thing, which would be only a fourth indication of it.


Floats have probably never been properly set. My bike has been abused.
09-02-2011 06:31 PM
rnoliver That would be not-sweet and non-sparkling?

Seriously though, the difference between rich and lean (high or low fuel level) in this area can be hard to describe. Both can kind of seem like a sag in power as the engine speeds up and starts to get into the main jet circuit and run cleaner. The rich version has more of a stumble or stutter i.e. wet as in clearing your throat. The lean version is more of a flat spot in the power curve and there is no stutter or bogging cough.

I would say, for grins go screw up your floats both ways and help us describe it, but it wouldn't be worth the time.
09-02-2011 06:18 PM
Masta Squidge
Quote:
Originally Posted by e1_ZX-9r View Post
There's a difference between 'within specs' and how the height affects the low speed fuel circuit's lean/ideal/rich fuel delivery:

"If the engine is "dry" and flat between 2k to 3k rpm, raise the fuel level." Factory Pro.

If you haven't read their CV Carburetor Tuning Procedure, do it! The knowledge you'll gain from one page will be worth its weight in gold...if that could be measured.
Thats the only thing I dont get. Dry and flat? Describe this.
09-02-2011 05:56 PM
rnoliver
Quote:
Originally Posted by unforgivenreality View Post
probably a dumb question but are the carbs on a kawi like the ones on my old honda where as num 2 carb was the base carb ie non adjustable therefore used as a base to set the rest?
By base carb, meaning it is hooked directly to the throttle cables, and all the other carbs adjust to it. In this case Yes. At least for the 11, but I'm pretty sure most banks are that way. This doesn't really make it a "master" but to change the idle positon of 2 you can only adjust the idle screw, none of the sync screws will change #2. This is why you do 1 to 2, 4 to 3 (notice when you adjust the right most screw, 4 moves, not 3) and then 3 to 2 or right pair to left pair.

But good reading and with the amount of real time that we spend in the low throttle opening range on our bikes it is essential for good operation.
08-31-2011 08:25 PM
Bobflyer Just got my Carbtune from England. My home made manometer is sheet. Finally going to do it properly here.
08-31-2011 07:17 PM
Orion Bookmarked for winter...thanx
08-31-2011 10:05 AM
zxflyinryan i think i need to sync my carbs. i doubt its ever been done looking at what the previous owner has done to my poor machine.
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