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e1_ZX-9r
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Profile
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| Location |
Blackfoot, ID |
| About Me |
My used Kawasaki Ninja: 2000 ZX-9r E1 California model, Supertrapp 2.5" ID universal slip-on exhaust (Manufacturer Part # 422-25000) liquid gasket sealed, altered main jets, K&N air filter, Keihin CVRD 40mm carbs (stock #38 pilot jets & jet needles, pilot air screw caps removed), synchronized (03/2009), base elevation 4,500', premium octane only, stock ignition, 1-4 cylinder PSI - 180+, valves adjusted within tolerances, stock KLEEN air vacuum system, Mobile 1 15w-50 synthetic engine oil. Routine - Ride using reserve for the first 100 tank miles, then switch to ON. I also run her to reserve regularly and switch the tap to off before turning engine off.
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Objective: Tune the stock carbs for highway/canyon riding primarily above 4,000 feet & eliminate the low-RPM surge. Using feedback from low-mid-high RPM operation, it felt like the setup was lean-lean-rich. Kawasaki's baseline for this is #152 mains & #35 pilots (see stock settings at bottom). However, my 9's intake and exhaust flow more freely, so I was already starting with more air. I just needed to fatten the midrange to help the low-mid circuit and lean out the top end to prevent high RPM choking when going over summits. Along the way I picked up two sets of #155 & #158s from the local bike shop for next to nothing, to compliment the #160/165s already on my bike and followed Factory Pro's CV carb tuning procedure. Once the jetting was more ideal across the spectrum, I was able to tune mid-top end power by adding or removing discs from my Supertrapp exhaust. Nine discs work best for both power and visibility (sound).
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Carb removal procedure: Ride the bike with the gas tap set to OFF for about a mile. This will help drain some of the gas out of the main fuel line and help prevent spilling when it's removed from the tap. Let the engine cool sufficiently. Remove the seats, gas tank screws & three fuel tank tubes, fuel tap control knob, lift and rest the tank tap on the rag covered frame, remove main fuel line at the tap, remove the tank, remove the airbox, drain each carburetor's float bowl, disassemble carb wiring, loosen (4) carb boot retaining screws, and wiggle/rock the carbs out of their intake boots.
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Carburetor modification ranking (w/K&N, Supertrapp exhaust, elevation 4,500'), before & after
1) set idle mixture screws. Stock (see bottom)- poor idle, mod- 1 1/2 - 1 5/8 turns out. Ideal when combined with #2.
a) At fewer than 1 1/2 turns out, the engine returns to idle too abruptly, making for awkward shifting.
b) At 2 turns out, MPG drops over 15%, no power improvement.
2) synchronize carbs. Stock- extreme surging, mod- w/o #3, only between 3K-3.5K and even then mostly unnoticeable. Easiest starting & best throttle response to date. Best results come after completing #1, 3, 6, & 7
3) shim jet needle up 0.8mm. Stock- extreme surging from 2.5K-4.5K RPM, mod- 0.8mm ideal. This step alone will prevent surging
4) tune main jets. Stock- excessively rich, mod- dropped two sizes (3%) to improve throttle response (Kaw says -8% above 4,000)
5) Supertrapp discs & throttle response. Mod- 6-8 discs for stock/neutered like feel & high MPG, 9 ideal, 9-10 for superior torque & horsepower
6) float height. Stock- off, but good, mod- 4mm hard starting, 5mm ideal
7) K&N air filter must be saturated with K&N oil and/or 10/40 motor oil. Excess oil must be drained off, for best results.
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Setups 1, 2 & 5 are garbage. #6 is the best no compromise setup so far, better in fact than #3 which returned the most power yet and better than #4 because I still get great fuel economy, but with #3's power. It's like a free lunch!.
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Setup #7: Oct 2009 Winterized mode. Dropped the jet needles back to stock position and removed one diffuser disc from the Supertrapp to compensate (8 of 12). All other settings the same as #6. New record for my bike. 474 miles using 8.624g = 54.96MPG. New tank range ~275 miles.
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Setup #6: Aug 2009 New favorite setup. She cleared 213 miles to reserve today - 53 MPG. Mains staggered at 158/160, jet needles shimmed 0.8mm, pilot air screws at 1 1/2 turns, K&N air filter cleaned and oil saturated with K&N oil & 10/40 motor oil, carbs synched. 52 MPG which is significant because the power is like that of #3, which was returning 45 MPG at 9 discs. Rides like setup #3, very torquey. 207 & 206 miles to reserve, during two separate days of riding. What's really going to blow my mind is that in a couple weeks, I'll be able to remove the jet needle shims. Meaning the bike's range will increase even more.
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Setup #5: July 2009 I'm always looking for better and I've been reading about others setting their pilot air screws at 2+ turns, but this setup SUCKS!! Adjusted the pilot air screw out to 2 full turns and MPG dropped 15%. At cruising speed, the engine had an occasional surge and exhaust color was black. I returned the screws back to 1 5/8 and everything returned to normal. Can't say I didn't try.
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Setup #4:> March 2009 - Post carburetor synchronization - Settings same as #3, except I dropped the jet needles back to stock position, since it is not necessary for high altitude operation. Ran at 216 degree water temp/city driving. Detonatation only given low altitude, RPM, high air temps. Minor trade off in raw torque & horsepower from setup #3. Considering shimming 0.5mm or less next time for low altitude trips. Carb synch results in cooler water temps than other setups before synch & a quieter exhaust note, perhaps due to engine working easier. 340 mile loop & other runs = 52MPG; another 353 mile loop 54MPG; another 340 - excessive passing & 60,000 low speed corners, 50MPG: May run, topped the tank off before today's group ride, then put in 2 gallons on top of that at the 150m turn around, assumed MPG would be down significantly due to, well, a pace that was OH-CRAP/WTF. Nope. 300m so far, but haven't reached reserve (the last 1g).
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Setup #3: Exhilarating acceleration & roll-on torque. Floats or lifts the front wheel under hard acceleration below 2000,' with the best power results yet.
Carburetor setup (Nov. 2008): jet needle raised 1.3mm, pilot air screws 1 5/8 turns, main jets 155/158 (outer/inner) & all other intake system settings the same as setup #2.
Supertrapp 4" diffuser discs: 9 of 12. Unrestrictive and loud enough to be seen by motorists, but doesn't attract the law (at least so far). Driving impression: Best power and throttle response so far. Eliminates surging & detonation completely, even in low altitude searing Summer day roll-ons. Impressive torque 1 - 8K RPM, then a rush above that. ~80MPH hwy trip (oxygenated winter fuel) = 45 MPG (9 & 10 discs) - 49 MPG (8 discs), non-oxy fuel 50 MPG,
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Setup #2: for comparison only - louder exhaust note & superior acceleration than setup #1. Carburetor setup (Sept. 2008): float height 5mm, staggered main jets #158/160 (outer/inner), pilot air screws 1 1/4 turns & K&N air filter oil saturated (diagonally drained outside for 12 hours) to compensate for more exhaust flow.
Supertrapp 4" diffuser discs: 8 of 12. Driving impression: Superior power characteristics than stock & setup #1, eye opening acceleration below 2,000', somewhat noticeable/tolerable 2,500 - 3,500 RPM surging, but still better than stock. Linear power delivery 1 - 8K RPM, then a rush above that, even at high altitude. Loud enough now to be noticed/seen by motorists wherever I go. Easier hot starting, nice idle - but wants to stall above 9,000', runs cool, circumstantial pinging. ~85MPH hwy trip = 49 MPG, fwy speeds 370 mile loop = 53.8 MPG
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Setup #1: for comparison only - slightly louder than stock, impressive MPG, plenty of linear power delivery, strong midrange, little surging.
Carburetor setup (Aug. 2008): float height 4mm, staggered main jets #155/158 (outer/inner), pilot air screws 1 1/2 turns out. K&N air filter double oiled to compensate air flow due to less restrictive Supertrapp exhaust
Supertrapp 4" diffuser discs: 5 of 12. Slightly louder than stock at all RPM. Nice deep howl.
Driving impression: Linear power characteristics, much better than stock, 2,500 - 3,500 RPM surging virtually eliminated. Linear power delivery 1 - 12K RPM, i.e. no top end rush. MPG boost of 4% - 9% over stock even with canyon carving (54.9 MPG). Somewhat difficult hot starting - engine acts flooded (probably due to float height). Better idling, runs cool, circumstantial pinging.
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Stock setup: poor idling, extreme low end surging. Drivable when accelerating or above 65MPH, but otherwise annoying power delivery & surging. Pings under load below 5,000 RPM, especially at low altitude. Runs hot, difficult to start anytime (usually requiring two attempts), sounds & feels like it's running on 3 cylinders. Good power delivery for a 900, bogs under acceleration above 6,000', quiet stock exhaust, lightly oiled K&N air filter. Bike has potential, but needs work.
Carburetor setup (July. 2008): Messed up synchronization altered by previous owner (he may have thought synchronization screws were idle screws). OEM pilot air screw settings -- 1 1/16, 1.0, 1 1/16, 1 1/8 turns, float heights (mm) -- 5.5, 5.0, 4.5, 5.0 (stock 4mm +/- 2mm), #38 pilot jets, N9BB jet needles, #160/165 main jets, all valve clearances below tolerance. Stock 2000 exhaust outlet diameter (OD) 2 3/8" |
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