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Old 02-18-2013, 06:19 AM   #1 (permalink)
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carb/ram air questions

hi guys, im new to the 99 zx9r C1. i have a 95 zx-750.

anywho, do i need new float needles if i set the float height to 15mm but it doesnt flood at around 17.5mm?

second question. im trying the ram air mod on the zx9. was fairly easy on the zx7. but im getting some sputtering around 5k RPM. the setup right now is, the float vent hose is connected through the bottom of the air filter (drilled thru the air box and past the air filter) so it sits above in the clean air portion. all the holes are as tight as i can get them.

*another thing to note (might be the problem) but the hose connected to the float vent has a one way air flow ristrictor. meaning, air that would come through the air box to the floats but it wont come back out. Is that an issue?

thanks guys

edit*
factory pro kit
155 158 158 155
38 slow jet.
one piece exhaust. no brand on it. (so not sure if its aftermarket)
needle is 3rd clip down with a space under and above.








Last edited by valentinoh; 02-21-2013 at 04:56 PM. Reason: added pics
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Old 02-18-2013, 02:44 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Hope this helps somewhat, since I have all of the bike's original emissions and float bowl equalization equipment.

I think what you're calling the RAM air mod is meant to be the fload-bowl mod, where you take the equalization tube coming up from the carbs and plumb it into the clean air side of the airbox, so that some of the snorkel and vacuum plumbing can be eliminated. I've heard a few do that and they seemed to think it worked out.

There's no problem setting the floats to 17.5mm so long as it doesn't screw up how you like your bike to deliver power. Higher is leaner and usually translates to poor throttle response and/or RPM flat spots. If your bike isn't exhibiting either, then leave it.

Your main jets, factoring in that FP is considered a direct conversion to Keihin, would seem a hair lean from stock and for San Antonio, TX. That's what I run on my E1 and it lives at 4,500' AMSL. I had to adjust the jetting down specifically because the bike would bog going over 10,000' summits as the AFR dipped below 13.3:1. Maybe yours is Dynojet.

To me, the ZX-9R has so much power, it's scary. I'm not going to worry about an extra pound of equipment when the bike only stops accelerating when it's into redline in top gear. Honestly, 175 MPH is too damn fast as it is and the fact that even where I live here at altitude, it's difficult to keep the front wheel planted. Why on Earth would I want to screw all that up by mod'ding it?
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Old 02-18-2013, 03:06 PM   #3 (permalink)
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I bought this bike for $700 last week, ofcourse with junked up carbs. so I attempted to clean them but they were real dirty. that I just bought a clean set off craigslist for $70.
then the issue was, bogging out over 4k.the float vent tube was just it in the open not even facing out side.so after reading several post.I realized it was the missing ram air plumbing, causing the issue.(leading to the float vent). so I read how to do the float bowl mod.

but again, in my first post I stated that. there was a one way flow,restrictor type thing in the vent hose. so I tried it out, put everything back and still bogging.

so today, I removed that air restrictor and put new spark plugs.low and behold. it's running great now. though I only took it up to 80mph with no bog. before it wouldn't go past 50mph or over 5k RPM without it losing power.

so I'm guessing removing the air flow restrictor did the trick and the new iradium spark plugs was a plus.
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Old 02-18-2013, 03:41 PM   #4 (permalink)
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also meant to put....

it floods at 15mm but not 17.5mm.
also the main jets read, factory 155's, factory 158's. so I assumed it was factory pro kit and these carb slides aren't drilled like a dynojet would be. though the original carbs slides do have the slides drilled but with factory 155īs, factory 158's.

so I honestly don't know what kit it has but it does have adjustable needles.so I'm assuming some sort of kit is in.
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Old 02-18-2013, 04:50 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by valentinoh View Post
also meant to put....

it floods at 15mm but not 17.5mm.
also the main jets read, factory 155's, factory 158's. so I assumed it was factory pro kit and these carb slides aren't drilled like a dynojet would be. though the original carbs slides do have the slides drilled but with factory 155īs, factory 158's.

so I honestly don't know what kit it has but it does have adjustable needles.so I'm assuming some sort of kit is in.
Agree, sounds like either Factory Pro or Ivan's. Congrats on your find and getting it to run better/right.

Still unclear what you meant by the air restrictor. You mean the air filter in the airbox?

But reading your posts, I think you're on the right track and your assumptions are sound. Give that whatever weight you think it carries.
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Alright! Trading bikes for a while was fun.I'm ready for mine back. No, seriously, get off my bike. Ahh, what a privilege it is to have such a sweet ride.
At the track she's said to be outclassed, but on the street, she reigns unmatched. She's the only big-bore canyon carving hypermiler I know of. -- Picture gallery, K&N air filter, SuperTrapp Aluminum Racing Series exhaust (Made in USA), ZG touring shield, & otherwise stock.
Science & OODA literate. ACA covered.
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Old 02-18-2013, 06:16 PM   #6 (permalink)
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lol

I'm calling it an air restrictor, not sure the technical term but basically it's a plug that was in the hose.if you blow in one way it will flow air but if you were try to blow out the other end, you couldn't. guess it doesn't really matter. but ill post pics. lol

thanks E1. you know your shit.


where did you start out with motorcycles?
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Old 02-18-2013, 06:50 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Thank you.

Beginning? 1972 Honda Cub. But if you try to find a nugget of my knowledge from there, you'll come up empty. Great fun reliable bike though.
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Alright! Trading bikes for a while was fun.I'm ready for mine back. No, seriously, get off my bike. Ahh, what a privilege it is to have such a sweet ride.
At the track she's said to be outclassed, but on the street, she reigns unmatched. She's the only big-bore canyon carving hypermiler I know of. -- Picture gallery, K&N air filter, SuperTrapp Aluminum Racing Series exhaust (Made in USA), ZG touring shield, & otherwise stock.
Science & OODA literate. ACA covered.
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Old 02-18-2013, 07:49 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Beginning? 1972 Honda Cub. But if you try to find a nugget of my knowledge from there, you'll come up empty. Great fun reliable bike though.

sweet! yeah like when did you get into them. like me,I got into this in October 2012
starting with my 95 zx750.
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Old 02-18-2013, 08:43 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Re: carb/ram air questions

Wow if you've only been learning since October, there's hope for me yet! LOL e1 is one of the wizards on here. Luckily for you, he decided you were worth help instead of ridicule :-P

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Old 02-19-2013, 06:08 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by e1_ZX-9r View Post

To me, the ZX-9R has so much power, it's scary. I'm not going to worry about an extra pound of equipment when the bike only stops accelerating when it's into redline in top gear. Honestly, 175 MPH is too damn fast as it is and the fact that even where I live here at altitude, it's difficult to keep the front wheel planted. Why on Earth would I want to screw all that up by mod'ding it?
I agree, a 9 still would be giving a hard time on nowadays IOM TT.
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Old 02-20-2013, 07:26 AM   #11 (permalink)
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Wow if you've only been learning since October, there's hope for me yet! LOL e1 is one of the wizards on here. Luckily for you, he decided you were worth help instead of ridicule :-P
Get out of here!! When have I ever been anything but nice...well except for those few times...okay I'm guilty.
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Alright! Trading bikes for a while was fun.I'm ready for mine back. No, seriously, get off my bike. Ahh, what a privilege it is to have such a sweet ride.
At the track she's said to be outclassed, but on the street, she reigns unmatched. She's the only big-bore canyon carving hypermiler I know of. -- Picture gallery, K&N air filter, SuperTrapp Aluminum Racing Series exhaust (Made in USA), ZG touring shield, & otherwise stock.
Science & OODA literate. ACA covered.
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Old 02-20-2013, 09:26 PM   #12 (permalink)
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I was actually hoping I wouldn't get the hammer for maybe my punctuation or such lol. as I seen him in action on a post. but yes,I was hoping he would and did chime in. thanks again E1
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Old 02-20-2013, 09:32 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Wow if you've only been learning since October, there's hope for me yet! LOL e1 is one of the wizards on here. Luckily for you, he decided you were worth help instead of ridicule :-P

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if you wanna learn and save money then you better have hope lol jk like everyone says have the service manual in arms reach and read through several post in the forum.
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Old 02-22-2013, 04:52 PM   #14 (permalink)
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While unorthodox, I'd think that would work



Only thing I can think of is the location at the front of the airbox somehow has a different air pressure than back towards the carbs. Does the airbox appear to seal well with the lid buttoned down?

As for the in-line plug, it's probably some sort of filter. The snorkel probably had one to clean the air up going to the float bowls, but with that tube where it is now, in clean air territory, you should be safe removing it.

If you still experience problems, perhaps try moving the tube to the back of the airbox.
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Alright! Trading bikes for a while was fun.I'm ready for mine back. No, seriously, get off my bike. Ahh, what a privilege it is to have such a sweet ride.
At the track she's said to be outclassed, but on the street, she reigns unmatched. She's the only big-bore canyon carving hypermiler I know of. -- Picture gallery, K&N air filter, SuperTrapp Aluminum Racing Series exhaust (Made in USA), ZG touring shield, & otherwise stock.
Science & OODA literate. ACA covered.
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Old 02-23-2013, 11:40 AM   #15 (permalink)
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Only thing I can think of is the location at the front of the airbox somehow has a different air pressure than back towards the carbs. Does the airbox appear to seal well with the lid buttoned down?

As for the in-line plug, it's probably some sort of filter. The snorkel probably had one to clean the air up going to the float bowls, but with that tube where it is now, in clean air territory, you should be safe removing it.

If you still experience problems, perhaps try moving the tube to the back of the airbox.
yes, it seal pretty good. yeah I removed it..I think it was causing it, to not allow enough air because of it. I runs great now. I might lower the floats to 15mm tmrw though.

I also have to look at New spark plugs color to tell me more on which way to tune it.
when I was have the issue at first, I pulled the trigger and bought the ram air plumbing parts on fleabay for $30(2 front ram air plastics and the original hosing to the float pressure tube.) should be arrive Monday. not to sure ill put it just yet. again thanks E1
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Old 08-18-2013, 05:13 PM   #16 (permalink)
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I've learned this recently. All the ram air and smog stuff that is hooked up to the float bowl vents effects the main jetting directly. Unhooking all that stuff will make your bike run rich typically. Older bikes that don't have float bowl vent's hooked up to anything typically are running smaller main jets and run just fine. If you are to run close to stock jetting and not have any of the ram air or smog crap hooked up, then you will need to run a hose, no check valves or restrictions of any kind, from the float bowl vents to the air box somewhere so that there is a little bit of vacuum on the float bowls to make the air fuel mixture right. Or, you can vent the float bowls to atmosphere and try to figure out the right combination of smaller main jets. If that is a viable option, a good starting point would be to do some research on older bikes that have carburetors vented straight to atmosphere and find out what size main jets they run.
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Old 08-18-2013, 06:43 PM   #17 (permalink)
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Is your bike popping rapidly on decel? (as opposed to occasional and infrequent?)

I had a 98 (same generation) with only a factory pro jetkit and it had no issues with sputtering so I think the mod is masking issues elsewhere or the cause of the sputtering.

There's another entrance on the back-right underside of the airbox that the KLEEN (what I believe you're referring to as the air restrictor) connected to. I tried using that for the mod but had sputtering issues that got better after reconnecting the hose to the front RAM air but didnt go completely away until I discovered slides not seated right. I never tried again after figuring the slides out since the bike pulled 1st gear 12 o'clock powerwheelies (while leaning forward into it!); figured that was enough power lol.

Factory Pro requires KLEEN (air restrictor) be totally removed for its jetkits. You can cap the nozzles on the engine or T them together with 3/16" T's and hack the hose you removed.

Keihin #40 pilot part#92064-1108 (easier starting and you can go back to factory 2.5 turns out)

I remember my tuning was 160/162/162/160; middle 2 needle jets at position 4, outside needle jets at position 3; 14mm floats; BMC Street filter and Viper slipon; 35 city/45 hwy MPG...just for ideas.
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