Help please! 2000 Zx9r e1 won't start - ZX Forums
 
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post #1 of 17 (permalink) Old 05-11-2017, 10:41 PM Thread Starter
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Help please! 2000 Zx9r e1 won't start

Hey everyone new here so I recently bought a 2000 zx9r and when I got it the battery was completely dead (bad battrry) so once i got the bike home I bought a new battery (the bike had been sitting for about 2-3 months)when I got it I filled the tank with premium 91 and with the new battery the bike started up fine no issues although I noticed I have to open the choke passed half way to idle at 2000 rpm and when I would turn off the choke the bike would shut off unless I gave it some gas when I turned off the choke so i rode the bike for about 2 momths not everyday just everyonce in a while 2 maybe 3 times a week somtimes more i eould just cruze around some backroads with a couple of friends and one day last week we went out to ride for a bit about 45 minutes came home than I was heading out to go somewhere and when I got on the freeway I sped up to keep up with traffic and suddenly the bike started to bogg on me so I thought I had to throw it on the reserve tank so I quickly switched the knob to reserve and tried to give it gas but it kept on bogging so I downshifted and it still kept bogging on me so I had to pull over and I couldn't get the bike to start back up so once I got the bike back home I tried to see if it would start (this was 2 days later ) and when I hit the ignition button still nothing but the battery completely died out the lcd screen wouldn't even turn on so I tried to put cables and jump start it I got it on by holding throttle open like half way but it sounded super boggy and I pumped the throttle completely open from being half way and it wouldn't even rev it just sounded boggy and clogged so I took the battery back to AutoZone cause it was the new battery I had just bought like 2 months before and they said it was good but had no charge so I left it there picked it up the next day fully charged so when I got home I put some treatment in the fuel and put the battery back on and I opened the choke and it started right up I left the choke idling at about 2000 rpm and let it warm up a little and when I shut off the choke It stayed on and was idling fine than it began to sound boggy again loosing it's idle so I opened the choke and it started getting worse to where it got really boggy again and I had the choke completely open and it was just bogging at like 1200 rpm bouncing so I shut it off and now it won't start just sounds boggy or clogged when it cranks , also when I got the bike on the left side there's this little black knob that was kinda hanging and wasn't on it's bracket so not knowing what it was I moved it around and tried to put it back on the bracket and tried spinning to tighten but wasn't doing anything I've messed with this thing more than once and tried turning it a few times to be honest I have no clue what it is but It may be connected to something on the carburetors could this be what's causing my problems? Any help would be really appreciated thanks everyone!
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post #2 of 17 (permalink) Old 05-12-2017, 02:03 AM
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The knurled knob is the idle adjuster, and is indeed attached to the middle of the carbs. You will need to get the tank off to reattach it. After the seats are off, turn the fuel tap to off, and with a phillips driver remove the screw holding the fuel tap on and remove the fuel tap.

Prize off the fuel tap hose, there will be a little spillage, then undo and remove the front and rear tank bolts and lift the tank off.

Below the middle pair of carbs is where the idle adjust will screw back in, you'll need a torch.

Take a look at the big white connector under the front of the tank that goes to the ignition plug, the white wire in this plug can cause the problems so check its not corroding. Check the other plugs while your there.

Check the plugs coming up from the stator under the carbs for poor connections and melting, then check the black round connectors going to the voltage regulator under the front seat left side rear fairing for melting.

Hopefully you will find the problem in one of those plugs.

If you have problems starting the bike after it's just been running, try turning the fuel tap to OFF about Half mile before you stop, and turn it on again before you start the bike. If this cures the engine hot starting problem then you need to replace the carb float valves, as there worn and constantly letting fuel into the carbs and flooding them. This is a common problem when the bike has about 25,000 miles plus on it, sometimes less.


Last edited by yorkie; 05-12-2017 at 02:37 AM.
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post #3 of 17 (permalink) Old 05-12-2017, 08:45 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by yorkie View Post
The knurled knob is the idle adjuster, and is indeed attached to the middle of the carbs. You will need to get the tank off to reattach it. After the seats are off, turn the fuel tap to off, and with a phillips driver remove the screw holding the fuel tap on and remove the fuel tap.

Prize off the fuel tap hose, there will be a little spillage, then undo and remove the front and rear tank bolts and lift the tank off.

Below the middle pair of carbs is where the idle adjust will screw back in, you'll need a torch.

Take a look at the big white connector under the front of the tank that goes to the ignition plug, the white wire in this plug can cause the problems so check its not corroding. Check the other plugs while your there.

Check the plugs coming up from the stator under the carbs for poor connections and melting, then check the black round connectors going to the voltage regulator under the front seat left side rear fairing for melting.

Hopefully you will find the problem in one of those plugs.

If you have problems starting the bike after it's just been running, try turning the fuel tap to OFF about Half mile before you stop, and turn it on again before you start the bike. If this cures the engine hot starting problem then you need to replace the carb float valves, as there worn and constantly letting fuel into the carbs and flooding them. This is a common problem when the bike has about 25,000 miles plus on it, sometimes less.


Thanks for the quick reply , and excuse me for not being more specific but the idle adjust knob is still intact underneath the carbs it was hanging from the other end where the actual knob is and I've given it turns in both directions I'm assuming pushing the screw going in and out so could this actually affect the bike enough to cause a problem? How would I adjust the idle knob to how it should be? , I'll check that out today I'll remove the tank and check those plugs hopefully it's as easy as that and I change the plug and get going and as for starting the bike up to drive it i cant it wont stay on so could I just open the carb bowls pull out the floaters and let them sit in carb cleaner (assuming they are in still good condition) ? And would it be ok to spray carb cleaner up inside the carb where I removed the floats and the carb bowls? And yes my bike has roughly about 26,000 miles and was running like a champ before this happened thanks a lot on the info really helps and I will get to opening her up and checking everything today and hopefully I find my problem
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post #4 of 17 (permalink) Old 05-12-2017, 09:22 AM
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You said it went boggy like it was running out of gas, I know that feeling. Did it run out of gas? My reason for asking is my tank the normal "on" tube inside the tank fell off and it was running on "RES" all the time as the gas tube was missing so it would run the tank bone dry.

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post #5 of 17 (permalink) Old 05-12-2017, 09:57 AM Thread Starter
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You said it went boggy like it was running out of gas, I know that feeling. Did it run out of gas? My reason for asking is my tank the normal "on" tube inside the tank fell off and it was running on "RES" all the time as the gas tube was missing so it would run the tank bone dry.

Well when this happened I was on the freeway and it happened so randomly but I had already put gas earlier that day so when I switched over to "reserve" from "on" and it still kept bogging and when I had it at home I decided to check it a few days later and when I charged the battery because it died for some reason and I added that fuel treatment to the fuel that was in their already and I put the tap on "on" and it started right up once it passed some gas through with the choke open but than when I turned the choke off it stayed idling for a couple minutes than it started bogging again so I turned it off put it on reserve open the choke and it started but still sounded boggy so that's when I opened it all the way and it kept bogging at 1200 rpm down to 1000rpm and now it won't start I filled up the tank with premium gas and more treatment and it still not starting so that's when I began trying to look into what can be wrong because I'm out of ideas
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post #6 of 17 (permalink) Old 05-12-2017, 10:19 AM
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hmmmm so it starts with choke, runs boggy once off, was boggy on the highway, is the fuel pump working?
My kids ZX6 is kinda doing the same thing so we took the air box off and at idle the carbs are dumping way to much fuel into the system and it won't idle but unlike your once we crack it past 6k it will catch up and run.
Have you taken the carbs off and open them up to see if anything is amiss?

fahza fahza can you heeeaar me!
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post #7 of 17 (permalink) Old 05-12-2017, 12:54 PM Thread Starter
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So I haunt done anything to it but put fuel treatment in the gas and I got it to start up with choke turned off choke and start racing the gas and I was reving up to 6k and it was fine and I started pushing it out to see if I run it a bit with the treatment and it began to die(bogg out) I have a full tank of gas with treatment it's called sea foam can be used in more than just the fuel , so right now I'm going to see if I can get it on and ride it around the block hopefully I don't have to end up pushing it back home and than I'm going to take a look inside the carbs see if everything is good
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post #8 of 17 (permalink) Old 05-12-2017, 01:00 PM Thread Starter
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hmmmm so it starts with choke, runs boggy once off, was boggy on the highway, is the fuel pump working?
My kids ZX6 is kinda doing the same thing so we took the air box off and at idle the carbs are dumping way to much fuel into the system and it won't idle but unlike your once we crack it past 6k it will catch up and run.
Have you taken the carbs off and open them up to see if anything is amiss?
I'm going to take a look inside the carbs right now after I try and see if I can ride it with the treatment running through see if it helps at all and do u know how to adjust the idle adjust knob on the left side of the bike but that couldn't cause the bike to bogg out like that could it? And also I took a video but not sure how to post it
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post #9 of 17 (permalink) Old 05-13-2017, 04:14 AM
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The Seafoam wont do much if the carbs are already clogged.
Send the carbs out to have them cleaned Ultrasonically- IMHO
Replace any worn parts. This will rule out any/most carb isses.

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post #10 of 17 (permalink) Old 05-16-2017, 04:26 PM Thread Starter
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So I opened the carb caps pulled the floaters but when I opened the caps no gas dropped at all and I had been trying to start it and has full tank there was barley any gas sitting in the carb caps basically empty could it be my fuel pump stopped pumping gas?
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post #11 of 17 (permalink) Old 05-16-2017, 08:03 PM
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yeah carbs should be full of gas, make up a makeshift fuel tank and hose, run it to carbs and see if she starts up with a gravity feed. Take the fuelk pump out the the equation , it it runs then you know.

fahza fahza can you heeeaar me!
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post #12 of 17 (permalink) Old 05-17-2017, 01:22 AM Thread Starter
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yeah carbs should be full of gas, make up a makeshift fuel tank and hose, run it to carbs and see if she starts up with a gravity feed. Take the fuelk pump out the the equation , it it runs then you know.
Awesome I'm defiantly going to give this a try so I can just take the hose from the carbs to fuel pump and attach it to a gas tank and see if that gets gas running through?
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post #13 of 17 (permalink) Old 05-17-2017, 05:53 AM
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Well I am not sure that will work, I use a longer house and a container and hold it way above the bike so the gas has to go into the carbs, remember these are helped with the pump so just hooking the gas tank directly to it might not work. It should be enough to fill the carbs and get it running, we did this on my kids ZX6 as we thought we had a fuel pump issue but it turned out to be the carbs. We had the exact opposite problem his bike was over fuelling the system and stalling and running on 3 cylinders off and on.

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post #14 of 17 (permalink) Old 05-17-2017, 09:12 AM
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If your bike is standard with no mods to the sidestand or clutch lever switch, put the bike in gear, sidestand down, front wheel to a wall, just incase, rest a finger on the fuel pump black end cap just inside the rear subframe mount, and now with the ignition on press the start button, the bike should not turn over because its in gear and the clutch lever is out, but the fuel pump should prime the carbs which you will be able to feel tapping through your finger on the fuel pump. The tapping should be quick to start with and then slow to an almost stop, whit a tap every few seconds.
If you can't feel this, then check the fuel pump relay and its plug and wiring under the back seat, for damaged wiring or corroded plug pins.
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post #15 of 17 (permalink) Old 05-23-2017, 07:15 PM Thread Starter
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Well I am not sure that will work, I use a longer house and a container and hold it way above the bike so the gas has to go into the carbs, remember these are helped with the pump so just hooking the gas tank directly to it might not work. It should be enough to fill the carbs and get it running, we did this on my kids ZX6 as we thought we had a fuel pump issue but it turned out to be the carbs. We had the exact opposite problem his bike was over fuelling the system and stalling and running on 3 cylinders off and on.
So I did the gravity test and surly it started right up also tried to see if the fuel pump pumped any gas when o hit ignition and no gas passes through so I should test fuel pump relay and fuel pump right? How would I know which pin is which on the relay to test it with an ohms multimeter ? And also one of the carburetor caps started to spit gas out from the bottom when I tried the gravity test is that normal?
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post #16 of 17 (permalink) Old 05-23-2017, 07:30 PM
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For the electrical I have no idea, as for the gas coming out the bottom of the carb? no that shouldn't happen ever. There is no pressure when gravity feeding other then well gravity, seal might be bad then or recheck the bolts are tight, do not torque on them just snug. You might need a new gasket.

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post #17 of 17 (permalink) Old 05-24-2017, 10:01 AM Thread Starter
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For the electrical I have no idea, as for the gas coming out the bottom of the carb? no that shouldn't happen ever. There is no pressure when gravity feeding other then well gravity, seal might be bad then or recheck the bolts are tight, do not torque on them just snug. You might need a new gasket.
It wasn't dripping the gas from the gasket there's like a little hole on each carb cap on the bottom and it started spitting a little gas which I thought was weird I'll reopen that cap and double check gasket because I'm pretty positive I tightened them nice and snug but could be possible
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