Bike Stalled in Motion? : Kawasaki ZX Forums: Kawasaki Ninja Forum

kelpike · 10-20-2009, 01:01 PM

My 95 ZX7 stalled at a light about a week ago. It kind of seemed like I blew a fuse, it wouldn't even turn over. After checking each fuse, the bike started back up. Its been running fine for a week now. I was coming around an off ramp today and it stalled, i pulled the clutch in and downshifted and let it back out, nothing, but it backfired each time I let the clutch back out at each gear. I pulled the bike over and it seems to be turning over fine. You can even hear the difference from throttle off to throttle on to choke on, so I believe its getting fuel. The bike has sat for almost two hours, then started right up, ran for about 3 minutes, stalled, started and ran for a couple more minutes, then stalled and will not start, but continues to turn over. I changed the plugs about a month ago and don't put that many miles on from week to week. I have had some starting issues in the past that can be seen in previous posts. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Troublemaker · 10-20-2009, 01:50 PM

fuel pump??

1992zx7 · 10-20-2009, 04:40 PM

Sounds like new CDI box time mine did the same thing and it was the CDI.

suprajztwenty · 10-20-2009, 11:00 PM

sounds like an ignition switch wire is getting de-soldered. its a common problem with these bikes. next time it stalls, wiggle the wire at the switch very gently while trying to start it, too hard and you can rip the wire right out and you might not ride home that day.

ZXgreen7r · 10-21-2009, 04:46 AM

Mine did the same thing sitting at a light... I went to take off and she just cut out... pulled it over and it was the ignition fuse... later on in the same day it did the same thing when i was down shifting approaching a light... replaced the fuse again... I havent had a problem since.

may be the same issue?... its been running strong since

maybe its a connection in the fuse block somewhere?

suprajztwenty... any ideas?

kelpike · 10-21-2009, 04:43 PM

I have had issues with the key ignition switch ever since I bought the bike. Sometimes you have to turn the key on and off a few times before it will start to turn over and start. I kinda liked that figuring it might be harder for someone to steal the bike. Am I an idiot, but I thought the ignition was only used when starting the bike? Can a bad ignition or loose connection in the ignition actually make the bike stall? And would a bad ignition or loose connection allow the bike to continue to turn over but just not start?

ALBERT55 · 10-21-2009, 05:44 PM

i agree with 1992zx7, because my 05 was doing the same thing, it would just stall after a ride like at a light or at a stop sometimes even while riding, it would just shut off. was talking to a few guys in here and they said they had the same problem on their bikes, they replaced their CDI and it stopped doing it.

but same symptoms it would shut off, then after about 1min it would start back up, and then it would shut off down the road again within 5mins of riding. It might be your cdi, but im not sure, heres the link to the thread where we were talking about it, but i dont know cuz your bike is 95 zx7..but maybe the same concept applies.

http://www.zxforums.com/forums/zx-6r...4-degrees.html

hope it helps.

kelpike · 10-21-2009, 06:04 PM

The bike has a Vance & Hines Powerpac in it. The person I bought it from does not have the stock cdi box. I will have to look around for one. I just turned the key on and hit the start button but nothing happened so I moved all the wires around and that did nothing also, so I turned the key off then back on and it started up, and the bike idled in the driveway for about a half hour. I was expecting it to stall, but it didn't.

suprajztwenty · 10-21-2009, 11:34 PM

its not the cdi box...trust me, with what you said about the ignition switch, im 100% certain thats going to be your prob.

all current runs through the switch through the white and brown wires...the red/blue wire is is wired to a resistor in the switch, the cdi must see that specific resistance to fire the coils/plugs (keeps guys from hot wiring your bike) and yes, even if the cdi doesnt see this voltage wire, the bike will still crank all day long.

take your triple clamp off of the bike, flip it upsidown and take the switch off. youll need a hacksaw or a dremel to cut a slot into the tamper proof screws in the base of the switch. now is a good time to take the top half apart and give it a good greasing.

in the electric part, look for burnt spots and repair any wires with a soldering iron. use di-electric grease on all the contacts and it shouldnt give you any problems in the future.

kelpike · 10-22-2009, 08:40 PM

I pulled it all apart. Nothing seems to have any burnt marks on it and all the connections seem tight. Could it have anything to do with the white plastic piece with the 2 ball bearings in it? I don't know what could be wrong with that piece if anything at all but I almost always need to turn the key on and off multiple times before it will turn over. And do I wipe the grease off of all the parts in there? There is not much grease in there just a few spots.
(suprajztwenty) Is there anything else I should do to any of these parts before I put the whole thing back together? And thanks for your suggestions and especially for the photos because without those I would have been completely lost.

suprajztwenty · 10-22-2009, 09:08 PM

clean all the old grease off and put new grease in. id say put the switch back together and plug it in without putting everything back on, turn the key and see if it fires up. im thinking the prob was the ball contacts

Don · 10-22-2009, 11:21 PM

My bike was doing the same thing, stalling all the time. Would start right up, run for a few minutes then stall again. For a while I thought I dicovered a pattern where it would stall as soon as I went over 8000 rpm. But then I could be sitting at a light idling and it would stall. The techs up here replaced the ecu, secondary injectors and a couple of other components but nothing seemed to work. Then one of the guys switched my tank with another bike and the bike ran no problems. It turned out to be a dirty pump. I replaced the pump with a new one and haven't had a problem since. Do you know anybody with the same bike where you could switch the tank. Just another thought of something to try if you still haven't solved the problem.

suprajztwenty · 10-23-2009, 11:57 PM

pump is external on these bikes, easy to check if its clicking, disconnect the clutch switch and press the starter button, fuel pump should shoot its juice

K916 · 10-24-2009, 10:07 AM

Supra, why do you need to disconnect the clutch switch? why not depress the clutch instead?

suprajztwenty · 10-24-2009, 10:21 AM

because the bike will crank over and you wont be able to hear the pump click, with the clutch switch unplugged the bike wont start weather its in neutral or not...but your fuel pump will pump, its the easiest way ive found to verify its working properly