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Old 10-12-2009, 08:58 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Thumbs up has anyone done the slipper mod ?

i was wondering if anyone has done this mod it makes sense but does it actually make that much of a difference i dont want to pull the clutch out if it does not improve the handling and ride performance any info would be nice thanks
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Old 10-12-2009, 09:01 PM   #2 (permalink)
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its not a mod, its a feature...its already done from the factory. the only mod i can think of is either tuning it or disabling it. get up to speed in 3rd gear, about 35-40 and shift to first and dump the clutch, if you lock up the rear wheel the slipper is disabled. all it does is keep the wheel spinning untill the rpms are low enough to re-gain traction...think of it as rear wheel abs
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Old 10-12-2009, 09:10 PM   #3 (permalink)
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the bike comes stock with it but its setup so you barely notice it the stock plates are 2.3 mm they say you can swap them for 2.0mm plates with stiffer springs the yellow ones and its like the factory race setup
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Old 10-12-2009, 10:16 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blackedout7r View Post
the bike comes stock with it but its setup so you barely notice it the stock plates are 2.3 mm they say you can swap them for 2.0mm plates with stiffer springs the yellow ones and its like the factory race setup
I've changed the springs with the factory race kit springs.It does make a difference.What are you looking to gain from your clutch?
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Old 10-12-2009, 10:24 PM   #5 (permalink)
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i went with ebc's street racer clutch, its kevlar and has stiffer springs...i changed it like the first month i started riding, so i really dont know the difference in stiffer springs (as far as the slipper is concerned)

but yes, youre right, tuning the slipper will require thinner clutch discs...kindve a waste if you ask me, i think it works just fine
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Old 10-12-2009, 10:39 PM   #6 (permalink)
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well im a pretty aggressive rider and like my down shifting just dont want my tire slipping and sliding all over it is a heavy bike my best bud has an 05 r1 with a hinson slipper clutch and it sled out on me a couple of times i ride it more than he does i just want to have a 7 that looks bad ass and rides bad ass and cant justify buying a slipper clutch if all i need is some plates and springs just orderd my dyno jet stage 1 kit and factory pro adjustable ignition advancer sweet fly little piggy
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Old 10-12-2009, 11:33 PM   #7 (permalink)
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if you put stiffer springs, wouldnt it lessen the slippers ability? i havnt looked into how tuning it does it exactly, thats why im asking.
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Old 10-13-2009, 12:51 AM   #8 (permalink)
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well according to the article adding 3 2.0mm plates which takes off 0.9 mm with the stiffer spring rate allows the slipper clutch to engage sooner the guy says its the same setup as the ama 7rs so i just wanted to know if anyone has done this 2fat says theres a difference and i get a little crazy from time to time the stock spring is 17-18 he says use 18- 19 from the factory race kit you can get at the dealer homepage.ntlworld.com/webzxr/zxr750r/.../slipperclutch.html

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Old 10-13-2009, 10:35 AM   #9 (permalink)
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so...technically, after some time my clutch will be the superbike slipper after its worn down awhile...i can wait till then
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Old 10-13-2009, 09:12 PM   #10 (permalink)
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lmao smart ass check that web site let me know what you think if its aload of crap
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Old 10-13-2009, 10:47 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blackedout7r View Post
lmao smart ass check that web site let me know what you think if its aload of crap
you mean this website? http://homepage.ntlworld.com/webzxr/...perclutch.html

on my bike i can hear the back limiter working, mostly in first gear with the clutch disengaged you still get that high speed whining sound, thats the clutch trying to keep the engine rpms matched...from my understanding, theyre trying to lessening this effect (disengaged) and to allow it to slip MORE under incorrect gear change (while clutch engaged)

im not much of a racer on the streets...now if i was to go out to track days, the clutch would be one of the last things on my list because you need to saftey wire all your bolts, killswitch lanyard and all that jazz. i can see a point in the back limiter tuning, but the slipper adjustment is something that time will do by itself anyways right?
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Old 10-13-2009, 11:07 PM   #12 (permalink)
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thats what im talking about the back thingy im gonna order the parts tomorrow for it
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Old 10-13-2009, 11:25 PM   #13 (permalink)
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detailed pics please!
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Old 10-14-2009, 06:43 AM   #14 (permalink)
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Bikes shipped from the factory with zero slip. This was achieved using a combination of six or seven 2.3mm steels with the friction plates. The 7th steel sometimes had to be thicker or thinner to get the stack height into spec, due to small variations in friction plate thickness.

Going to six 2.0mm steels plus one 2.3mm with OEM friction plates is the easy way to get full slip without doing the actual measuring as detailed in the race kit manual. You can mix/match a combination of steels to get anywhere from full to no slip. You have to line up the outermost friction plate's tabs with all the others (no offset) or the clutch won't operate properly. The factory method requires an extra shaft so you can mount up your clutch pack and measure the height precisely on a bench.

The addition of 3 stiffer springs improves the clamping force without increasing lever effort too much. Swapping out all six can make the lever a bitch to squeeze, depending on what spring strength you choose.

I've run this setup in the past, and will be setting up my current 7R this way over the winter. The parts are cheap, and it is a worthwhile mod for those who like to ride hard in the twisties. Straight-line riders and cruisers wouldn't notice much beyond a decrease in engine-braking.
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Old 10-14-2009, 10:19 AM   #15 (permalink)
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so when your comming in hot and your not engine braking (clutch engaged), all you have to do is give it more throttle and it starts to catch again? or it doesnt engage untill the wheel slows down enough? what kindve rpms will activate the slipper? like if i just downshift a gear and let out the clutch the rpms might go up to 7-8k, is that enough to make the slipper activate, and if it is, when does the clutch catch back up and stop slipping?

Last edited by suprajztwenty : 10-14-2009 at 10:23 AM.
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Old 10-14-2009, 04:23 PM   #16 (permalink)
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cool good info bozo so i orderded 3 2.0 mm plates today cost $9 each i should order another 3 and get the medium springs x3?
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Old 10-15-2009, 05:40 PM   #17 (permalink)
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where did you find the parts?
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Old 10-15-2009, 06:20 PM   #18 (permalink)
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thats brand new at kawasaki i couldnt believe it first time my ass didnt hurt after i left got my carbon mirrors today black engraved block off plates and carbon folding shift lever i got from a zx9 needs a little modification gonna weld a piece of aluminium to the peg to bring the lever out quater inch if it works its gonna be badass and my dyno jet kit
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