I replaced the friction plates in my clutch. Started it up and when i push down to go into 1st it stayes in neutral. Click up into 2nd it shifts hard and when I let out the clutch, nothing. It also will not shift up into any other gear. What am i missing? Everthing was fine before i did this.
As long as the lever wasn't pulled while it was apart, there should be no issues with the throwout mechanism. I would suspect something was not assembled properly on the clutch side. Did you have a manual and follow the prescribed assembly sequence? You will most likely have to open it up again and check the function of the clutch pack while looking at it.
It may be a pig, but it's a pig with a rocket in it's ass!
I know very little about the mechanics of bikes. There is a very good possibility the the lever was pulled while i had it apart. Not knowing I guess causes big problems. I did follow the reassambly of the plates and springs.
When we shift into second, with the lever released the bike will move forward and backwards. My buddy said that the pressure plate should stop the from happening. I dont know if that helps or not. Im wandering about the lever being pulled while it was apart. I really do appreciate your help.
Remove oil fill cap and using a light look for movement inside of the clutch plates, if it worked before it should work now, providing everthing was put back in its place. From your description it sounds like clutch plates are not being pressed together by the spring force. Hammerhead is right most likely you will have to pull the cover again. try using a small screwdriver to wiggle the plates side to side throu the oil fill hole. clutch handle released they should not move.
i had this problem when i replaced my clutch plates...the plates are kinda hard to get them to slide back into position...if they dont slide back into position, the handle will be really hard to squeeze in and there will be very little play between the plates when you squeeze the handle....my advice would be to wiggle the plates back and forth until you hear them fall into place, if this happens then you will have more slack in the springs, re-torque the springs to the book specs and then give it another try.....I think that the problem is that your plates arent seating in the basket where they should be
New to this so sorry if its out ofdate. I just replaced the plates on my 97 ZX and the other thing it might be is that the final spacer plate goes into a different slot than all the others when you re-assemble it. Just a thought
dont think its hydraulic- there is a clutch stack adjustment- part of the slipper clutch, for the most part aftermarket clutch plates are not the same thickness, they are close, but the difference, times 7-8 plates and you have a problem, there is something about setting the stack thickness in the manual- I always by factory parts when it comes to clutches so its a non issue for me- see if someone on here has that manual and download it, also did you stagger the plates when you put them in the clutch housing- did you soak them overnight?
I have very good friend of mine looking at it now, I believe that he is reading all the help that everyone here has given. I honestly do appreciate it. I'll keep checking back and when we figure out the problem Ill give feedback to everyone. Do i just come back to this Thread or is there another way to let everyone know. This is my first time in a forum of any kind. Thanks all. Zack
Did you replace the springs along with the friction plates? If they are the originals, they are likely to be worn.
As Dave mentioned, whenever changing friction plates, you want to measure free play. The combination of aftermarket plates and worn steels could result in a free play measurement that is outside specs even for a race bike with the slipper function fully implemented. It's unlikely, but it could happen. Equally unlikely, but possible that a plate or two never made it back into the stack (unnoticed, stuck to an old friction plate, aftermarket kit didn't contain the proper # of friction plates, etc.) Combine one of those scenarios with weakened/shorter springs, and you aren't going anywhere.
Incidentally, activating the slipper is simply a matter of replacing one or more stock steels with thinner ones and using appropriately-sized springs. The bikes all came from the factory with zero slip. It takes a bit of experimentation to find what combination works best for each rider, and isn't really necessary on the street. Fun to play with, though.