What was the original issue? I re-read your post and didn't see what the original problem was - just a no-start? Lock cylinder jimmied?
Some background and model year may help.
Maybe I should start a new thread to attract more attention. I don't want to clutter the forums though.
Bike is a 1997 ZX7R with 34,500 miles on the clock. I've only owned the bike for a few months and in that time it's always had a habit of being somewhat difficult to start. Once the bike got going, it ran reliably and would start up without much issue. Since I've owned the bike I've done the following: Valve adjustment, Manual CCT install, new plugs, new battery (Deka YTX12-BS), carb sync, and air filter replacement. I believe the bike to be mechanically solid. With that being said the bike doesn't currently run. It'll crank and crank all day long but never attempt to turnover. I also don't believe that the fuel pump is working. With all of these symptoms I believe I'm having the rather common grey wire issue.
My earlier posts have more detail but, I started troubleshooting by backprobing the grey wire and only saw ~5.5-5.8v with the key in the ON position. I removed the ignition switch from the bike, at this time I noticed the brown wire connections were slightly melted. I removed the contact block from the ignition; I noticed that the previous owner had opened up the ignition and possibly replaced the resistor at some point. all the solder connections still looked solid though. there was also a nice coating of old WD40 all over everything. So I and cleaned everything with rubbing alcohol, and applied some dielectric grease to the contact points on the switch.
After cleaning and reinstalling the ignition I backprobed the grey wire again. There was a somewhat noticeable change in voltage, I was averaging 5.8v pretty often now. This still wasn't the 6v I need though. So, I ended up removing the contact block from the ignition again and soldering in a new 100ohm resistor just to eliminate the possibility. No change in voltage, I was still getting ~5.8 volts regularly. That leads us to where I currently am in the troubleshooting process.
This Saturday I went though every electrical connection on the bike that I could find (pretty sure I got them all). I separated each connector and cleaned the contacts with a light filing and reassembled the connections with dielectric grease. While combing through each connector I only found two melted ones, the connection between the alternator and wiring harness is melted pretty bad. However, it's been this way since I bought the bike so while it is an issue, I don't believe it's the root cause of my no start issue. As far as a fix goes, could I just cut the connector out and put a new (better) connector? The other metled connector that I found was the subframe ground that runs from the negative battery terminal to the subframe.
I was able to cut the melted boot off of the connector using a hobby knife. From there I filed the melted bits / corrosion off of the two connections and joined them back together with some dielectric grease. Once I was finished cleaning each connector I reinstalled the ignition switch and placed a freshly charged battery in the bike. Once again I backprobed the grey wire and was able to get 6.0-6.04v running through the grey wire (picture below). Unfortunately, my victory was short lived. I was unable to keep a steady 6.0v around for very long. Often the voltage through the grey wire would hover around 5.95-5.99v more often than not. I also discovered I was able to manipulate the voltage by jiggling the wiring harness coming off of the contact block in the ignition, and or turning the ignition on/off again.
However, this doesn't make sense to me because I know the connections on the contact block inside of the ignition are solid. I was able to give the bike a few solid cranks with 6.0-6.04v running through the grey wire. I couldn't get the bike to turn over though, it did look like the fuel pump was moving fuel (or trying) to move fuel to the carbs. When I started cranking the bike the fuel filter was pretty dry, after a few cranks I noticed there was probably 3-5mm of fuel sitting in the fuel filter. I also noticed while cranking that the voltage through the grey wire would drop to about ~5.0-5.4V, then would jump back to ~5.95-6.0v once I let off the starter switch, is this normal?
I haven't taken the time to verify spark / proper fuel pump operation. Mostly due to the fact that the bike was running fine before this issue started up. A few days ago I ordered a new ignition off of eBay (Very similar to: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Kawasaki-Ign...lWcuTK&vxp=mtr
). I'm hoping that installing a new ignition will solve my issues as my ignition is very tired and has a lot of play in the actual tumbler assembly.
However, if installing a new ignition doesn't solve my issues; what other areas should I troubleshoot next? I'm quickly running out of ideas here besides replacing all of the major electrical components on this bike. That or, creating a custom wiring harness for the bike. Oh, and I've also replaced every fuse in the junction box / starter relay with brand new (and proper) voltage / amp fuses.
Any help solving this issue would be greatly appreciated.
Direct link to image: http://imgur.com/a/blTKM