Help! Trouble shifting with my new 08 ZX-6R... : Kawasaki ZX Forums: Kawasaki Ninja Forum

mb hawaii · 09-06-2008, 01:25 AM

I have a 2008 ZX-6R that I got 1 1/2 weeks ago and I'm having trouble upshifting. It currently has 266 miles. I am making sure that I throttle off all the way and pull in the clutch all the way. I even adjusted the shift lever. It is very difficult to upshift. I sometimes often need to make 2-3 attempts and it happens on all the gears. Sometimes when I shift nothing happens and sometimes it feels like it's sticking. I'm still breaking it in and don't take it above 4000 rpm's. I did a search and came up with nothing. Any ideas? TIA

Scabbs · 09-06-2008, 01:42 AM

hows the oil?

mb hawaii · 09-06-2008, 01:57 AM

I just looked up my owner's manual and went out to check the oil level. Now this may be a dunmb question, but when checking the oil level, the bike should be off the kickstand and balanced right? Also there's only one oil gauge to check right? I did not find another one in the manual.. Thanks!

Oh, the oil level was full (bike off the kickstand and balanced)

gammac · 09-06-2008, 02:22 AM

Mine can be occasionally like that in a 1st - 2nd upshift when just warmed up. I adjusted the gear shift. Better when the motors properly warm. Also boot related. One pair is a little softer than the other.
gammac

mb hawaii · 09-06-2008, 02:30 AM

Hmm, mine does it whether the bike is cold or warm and seems to do it more from 3rd to 4th and 5th to 6th. Also when down shifting from 3rd to 2nd and 2nd to 1st it sometimes can't find the gear. The gear indicator goes blank and I need to engage the clutch to get it to slip into gear. Does that happen to anyone too?

craig_sez · 09-06-2008, 09:55 AM

GAWD!!!!!!!!,based on what im reading its his 1st bike......What a way to start out....

mr.nubbins@mac.com · 09-06-2008, 11:13 AM

I wonder if maybe the chain was set to tight on the bike I know when I have adjusted chains on my bikes in the past if it was to tight or loose it would not shift properly.

mb hawaii · 09-06-2008, 07:07 PM

Brought it to the dealership and had the mechanic take a look at it. He took it for a run and said that it was perfectly fine. He mentioned that it's the typical Kawasaki tranny and that I was having problems due to the break-in period. I was probably shifting to a higher gear at too low of an RPM (around 3500) trying to keep it under 4000 like the manual said. He also told me that it's okay to take it to 6000 and a occassionally higher. So on the way back I did just that and it's much better! I did a thorough search and did not find any mention of this "issue". Did you guys ever had this problem? Thanks for everyones comments and help. :)

Shifty1 · 09-06-2008, 10:39 PM

Problems due to the break-in period? Bullshit. You may be shifting at too low of an rpm but even then it shouldn't be that bad. If it keeps happening, use your warranty and don't take no for an answer. I'm tired of hearing about guys taking their brand new bikes to be checked out only to be told that everything's normal and then the bike blows up later. Some dealerships are just so damned lazy. That is why I do all my own work to my bikes. People today just don't give a shit about doing a good job and taking pride in their work.

mb hawaii · 09-07-2008, 02:11 AM

Thanks Shifty, I'll definately go get a second opinion. I decided to buy the ZX-6R because it's suppose to have the best transmission. :(

xxxdesigns · 09-07-2008, 08:29 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mb hawaii

Thanks Shifty, I'll definately go get a second opinion. I decided to buy the ZX-6R because it's suppose to have the best transmission. :(

...and it does! I would reccomend shifting around 7- 8000 rpm( won`t hurt the breakin) and make sure you pull completely up on shifter. Does it do it when powershifting?

mb hawaii · 09-07-2008, 01:08 PM

I haven't tried powershifting it yet. I was thinking that I should be able to upshift even though the RPM's are low.

Shifty1 · 09-07-2008, 02:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mb hawaii

I haven't tried powershifting it yet. I was thinking that I should be able to upshift even though the RPM's are low.

You should be able to. The other thing I would try to do is to adjust your shift lever down to help ensure a full, clean, positive shift. I was kinda in a pissy mood when I posted before but I stand behind what I wrote. Find the most reputable shop in town, and ask them to take a look at it. Make sure they do a thorough job. Afterall, that is what the warranty is for.

Tipys · 09-07-2008, 02:49 PM

I had kinda the same problems during my break in with my 07 ninja 650. I still cant get to go into 2nd at an idle I think thats the way Kawi is making a good trans by making it have to be over a certain RPM.

ZX6Ray · 09-09-2008, 01:41 PM

I have heard evidence directly from a honda tech that used to work in Japan who now lives in california that the reason these manufacturers "make up" a break-in period is for people to get safely accustomed to their brand new bike and not drive into a tree the day after they buy it. This is another way how manufacturers cover their asses. Unlike in the 70-80's engine honing is now more "polished". The surfaces of the cylinder walls are much more smoother than they used to be. Especially in Japan where QA is the backbone of thier pride. It takes much less time now to properly seal the piston rings to the cylinder walls. If you go easy on it for the first 600 miles, the cylinder walls will loose too much excess material and not get a chance to grind down the piston rings to completely seal the gap between the rings and the walls.

I say get it broken in properly by taking it through the rpm's in 4 easy steps. Before each step let the bike completely warm up 180-190F is where you want it. In between steps make sure you park the bike and let it cool completely then let it heat up throughly. This is for the importance of getting the engine to go through heat cycles.
1) Take bike up to 4K, deaccelerate in 1st gear. Repeat once.
2) Take bike up to 6K, deaccelerate in 1st gear. Repeat once.
3) Take bike up to 10K, deaccelerate in 2nd gear. Repeat once.
4) Take bike up to 14K, deaccelerate in 2nd gear. Repeat once.

Don't apply 100% throttle in these cases. Bring it up to the rpm's gradually and safely on a good road with no cars if you have no experience riding.

Change your oil and filter immediatly with 10W-40 of yamalube or kawasaki oil. I know it sounds crazy but what is crazy is the amount of tiny shavings you will see in the oil. You don't want that crap to keep recirculating.

At this point ride it however you want but bring it in for the 600 mile service.

Change your oil again with the same type oil at 1000 miles. There's a lot of shavings that end up in the oil so this is why you change it often in the first 1500 miles.

At 1500 miles it's time to switch to synthetic if you want. Amsoil, Motul and Repsol are the most reliable brands to go with. At this point you can change the oil every 3000 miles or shorter depending on what you do with your bike. i.e. track or commute.

mb hawaii · 09-10-2008, 02:48 AM

Thanks ZX6Ray for the detailed right up. I have 410 miles currently and I'll try the steps you mentioned on my way to the 600 miles service to get the oil changed right away.

gammac · 09-10-2008, 03:42 AM

ZX6RAY. Similar to and old technique used with cars years ago called "whipping it in" only you let the rev build on a downhill no load situation. Used it always.
gammac