First Oil Change

[hammertime]

Newbie here, new 07 ZX-14 Black. I'm right at 600 miles and ready to do my first oil change. Anyone have a step-by-step on this? I searched for it on the forum but didn't come up with anything. This will be first time getting inside the bike.

Thanks!!!
Hammertime

[BlueBomber14]

Good luck Hammer ,hope the info was useful.

[ZXMex14]

First spotbike with easy access to Filter & plug -- what site did you refer him to?

James

[BlueBomber14]

Sorry James I sent this to a personal email address then sent a reply on the forum it wasn't a site or picture how to but a recount of the basics of the oil change as I do it. I'll put the same offer out to you as I did to him, if you would like some pics with the following how to I'd be more than happy too, but as you'll see below it's a pretty simple task, no harder than an auto oil change.

It's really as easy as you would think it is. pull the lower fairings off I like to pull the middle ones off too just so I don't scratch them, under the oil pan on the bottom of course there is a drain plug,remove the plug and let it drain completely then once that is down to a slow drip I like to remove the oil filter which is right behind the header on the bikes left side it points forward it's pretty obvious you'll see it no problem, ( I picked up a set of oil filter wrenches from the local Harbor freight tools) they are formed like the front (or top) of the filter and come usually as a set of three or four from small to large well worth the five bucks. They are handy because the factory filter is put on with like 20 ft lbs of torque!!! don't know why?? any way take the filter off and you'll have a bit of oil still in it so keep the pan under it and the drain plug. The reason I leave the plug out while I remove the filter as you'll see is to drain the oil that drains out of the filter back into the engine while it was removed. Then when it's drained replaced the drain plug bolt and wipe off the filter seat area on the engine put a little oil on the rubber O ring on the filter with your finger so it slides on the engine when it makes contact and tighten. Now the manual says to tighten it with a filter wrench to 20ft lbs of torque? I did not and from the checking around on the forums I did... neither do many other people. I tightened it as tight as I possibly could with my bare hands . Some others said they put there's on like a car filter ( 1/4 turn past the point that it makes contact with the engine block). Seems that no one is having a problem with them loosening so which ever way your most comfortable with I suppose. All you have to do now is add the oil till it is half way between the the two lines in the sight window on the right side of the engine below the filler hole, be sure the bike is perfeclty level when you check the oil level and not on the kickstand. I hope I didn't make you think I thought you were an idiot I just wasn't sure if this was your first bike or what experience you have turning wrenches so I put as simply as I could. You may already know most of what I said? Anyway I would be happy to get you some pics of the important stuff this weekend if you would like to see any of it. just say the word it's no problem. Good luck and enjoy working on your new ride.

[hammertime]

Wow!! That was really easy! With the very quick and thoughtful response over the weekend from BlueBomber14, I tackled this task without any major issues. With my new Pitbull rear end stand in place for the first time, I positioned the bike on a level part of my driveway. Then carefully removed some plastic, idled the bike for a few minutes to warm up the oil. Then 17mm wrench to remove the drain plug from the oil pan. Now the interesting part...what and the #$%& did Kawi use to tighten the oil filter?? I couldn't remove mine with standard oil filter wrench. So I wound up borrowing a friend's Snap On oil filter wrench and eventually it broke loose. After all the oil was removed, I smeared a little oil around the rubber on the new oil filter and reinstalled it (not so tight). Inspected the crush washer on the oil pan drain plug (it was fine) and reinstalled the plug. Then added approximately 4.7 qts Redline Synthetic Racing Oil (10W40). Reinstalled the plastic lowers and let it warm up before explaining to the wife that I needed to go for a quick ride to make sure the bike was still running properly

Thanks again for the help!!

[BlueBomber14]

Excellent, your as good as some of the bike mechs I've met already!!!

yeah that filter is stupid tight dude I don't get it!!!

I'm not an oil specialist but I have heard rumors and opinions that you should wait until the bike is broke in (around 5000 miles I think) before you go to the synthetic? Might check around. I think the theory is the oil is so good it doesn't let the parts break in against each other and seat right??? Again just what I'v heard here and there.

[hammertime]

I used to think that too, but then a few years ago had a nice conversation with one of the engineers at Chrysler's SRT facility. He explained that they put full synthetic in cars like the Viper and RAM SRT-10, etc. He gave many reasons they use it, and I asked him about the rumors of parts not seating properly, etc. He said they are unfounded. I know the new Corvette Z06 also comes from the factory with full synthetic Mobile 1. Some older vehicles with looser tolerances can't use it because the oil gets past some of those parts. I will say that since the oil change with the Redline Synthetic, the bike runs fantastic and the transmission shifts silky smooth now. Definitely a noticeable difference! If anyone else has knowledge about this, I would love to hear about it.

[BlueBomber14]

Thanks for the info.

Figured on switchin over this winter anyway I'll be at 4000miles come spring time so it won't matter here either way.

It seems there are as many opinions on the subject as there are on any other part or fluid you can get. If you pay somebody enough they'll test it in a way to make it look like the best. So I'm pretty much to the point that I go with what has worked for me in most cases. Everybodies situation is different (climates, riding style, maintenance habits, etc.) so it's hard to say one thing is better than the other unless the variables aren't variable???

[hammertime]

You're right, and I think they're all good, or they wouldn't couldn't continue to be in business. There is definitely a pleasant difference going over to synthetic. comes at a price though. The stuff is expensive, but the shifting is like butter!! Bike overall seems happier if that's possible

[ZXMex14]

Thanks a bunch guys on the Oil Change -- Folks who have high mileage with no problems seem to have it right -- the guy with 77K on his using MOTUL...
thats a book right there -- thanks for the detailed explanation -- shows that people do care out there -- we need more of that all around.

ZXMex14