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Old 03-16-2010, 04:44 PM   #1 (permalink)
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spark plugs/ 9500 mile service

so i called two different dealers this past weekend to see what service is next. bike has never really been in for service since i bought with 1500 miles. all fluids have been change except for brake/clutch which is next for me. one stated 12000 miles for $200 and the other dealer stated 9500 miles and $500. i asked them what they do for 500 and it sounded like replace spark plugs and change fluids (which i change on my own fluids) the only thing that really i haven't done is change the plugs. it sounds like they just check a bunch of stuff. do you guys have any input on the service or how hard it is to change plugs? i know/think the 16000 valve inspection/adjustment will have to be done by them....
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Old 03-16-2010, 04:51 PM   #2 (permalink)
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I just did plugs this past weekend and it wasn't nearly as bad as I thought it would be. Kawa includes the tool for the plugs in the tool kit and it is immensely helpful. I had it done in about 30 minutes. NOT including taking off plastics. I can give you more info if you need it man. My next project is the valve adjustment and I believe that will be a mutha
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But it has now changed into a thread jacked argument in a thread about not jacking thread and wasting space... that is all
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Old 03-16-2010, 06:41 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ezmport View Post
so i called two different dealers this past weekend to see what service is next. bike has never really been in for service since i bought with 1500 miles. all fluids have been change except for brake/clutch which is next for me. one stated 12000 miles for $200 and the other dealer stated 9500 miles and $500. i asked them what they do for 500 and it sounded like replace spark plugs and change fluids (which i change on my own fluids) the only thing that really i haven't done is change the plugs. it sounds like they just check a bunch of stuff. do you guys have any input on the service or how hard it is to change plugs? i know/think the 16000 valve inspection/adjustment will have to be done by them....
Stumbled across this a few weeks ago. It should help. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A9no3rSrETc
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Old 03-16-2010, 07:12 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Stumbled across this a few weeks ago. It should help. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A9no3rSrETc
thanks man, that doesn't seem bad at all. i shoulda did it this weekend prior to putting bike back together today. damn. but i have 1500 before do. i wonder how ez the middle to plugs are. in any event that outter plug seemed gravy.
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Old 03-16-2010, 08:18 PM   #5 (permalink)
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You need to get yourself an owner's manual or service manual. It will have the service/maintenance schedule laid out for you and, if you get the service manual, it'll walk you through everything step-by-step.
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Old 03-16-2010, 08:29 PM   #6 (permalink)
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I have a service manual. If you give me a day or two I can scan at periodic maintenance schedule so you can at least have that. If you plan on keeping the 14 I would invest in the manual although I think you can find pdf versions on the web somewhere.
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Old 03-16-2010, 08:51 PM   #7 (permalink)
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The service manual is invaluable. However it only said to remove them and replace them. It does show which way the connectors for the coils need to face which is handy. I took out the left plug (setting on bike) from the left side and all others from the opposite side. It was easiest for me because less connectors for my andre the giant hands to work around. In any event as was stated you need a service manual so all your cable routings will be correct...not to mention all the other small things. Good luck with it man.
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But it has now changed into a thread jacked argument in a thread about not jacking thread and wasting space... that is all
06' ZX14 Candy Thunder Blue

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Old 03-17-2010, 07:28 AM   #8 (permalink)
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This site has downloads of the 14 manual:
http://www.box.net/shared/ohyn64vgow
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Old 03-17-2010, 10:20 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Quote:
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This site has downloads of the 14 manual:
http://www.box.net/shared/ohyn64vgow
Very Cool Pizz!
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Old 03-17-2010, 03:52 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Nice vid there-NATURALLY,they DIDN'T include removing the inboard plugs-....his advice..."be careful".Ya-okay,of what?He mighta wanted to add-"don't angle the plug wrench when tightening or loosening"....think that mighta been a tad more informative?
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Old 03-17-2010, 04:53 PM   #11 (permalink)
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good stuff guys, i appreciate it OP and Pizz i am downloading as we speak. i actually have one, but again not always clear. it is nice to have locked on file though, i can print as needed. also watched that video looked very ez, however i wonder how the inner plugs work out. i will hit it some time in the next month or two. thanks again.
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07 zx14
rear fender eliminator
d&d race pack
muzzy fan
engine ice
hpc secondary fan
puig db windshield
chrome wheels
zx14 chrome heel guards
chrome levers/chrome frame sliders
led under glow kit
ccfl headlamp halo kit/led corner bulbs/35w hid lows sargeant seat
galfer platinum brake lines
pcIII/removed secondary flies,(171hp/103 torque)
6 inch roaring toyz stretch
vortex rear sprocket/ 530 chain
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Old 05-11-2010, 05:33 PM   #12 (permalink)
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I have removed the plastic but would appreciate a step by step comment from you on how to remove the plugs. Thanks
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Old 05-11-2010, 07:08 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Once you do the first one...you'll get the feel for it...the others will be easier.SEE BOTTOM part of this info BEFORE removing all the plugs.Remove left subframe arm.Move out of the way.Any wiring connectors,move them(or unplug them)and get em out of the way.Reach in there on the left side.Unplug that stick coil wire connector.Push down on the clip there and slide away from coil.DON'T loose the red rubber boot inside of the connector.(may be a different color-mine were red).CAREFULLY NOW....grasp that stick coil and turn from side to side while lifting up.You'll need to be a tad creative with it.It won't just pop off.I grabbed the coil with my left hand...and used a LARGE flattip screwdriver.I turned the coil back and forth and GENTLY,CAREFULLY applied upwards pressure to the underside of the coil connector with the flat part of the driver.You DO NOT WANT TO FORCE THE CONNECTOR AT ANY TYPE OF ANGLE.Lift with your left hand,lift with the screwdriver at the same time.Once it slips a bit loose...get the driver outta there and hand lift it out while still turning.Pull straight up and out from the valve cover.You can pop er back on the plug easily once she's over the plug tip...just turn back and forth,applying downward pressure to the center of the stick coil.She'll seat in there okay with a bit of a "click",though it's not really a click,you will feel it seat all the way.Do with all the plugs.Use that toolkit plug wrench and long handled box wrench for the plug wrench top bolt.OR...a 1/4 inch drive small socket(can't remember what size...about an 11 or so...something like that).Should not have to adjust the plug gap.Anti seize on the plug threads.Install gently and straight down into the head.You MUST be able to turn the plug(in the wrench)by hand for several several turns.If it's crossthreading,you'll know...it'll stop turning by hand right away.To not continue to turn if the plug starts binding right away.Stop,and regroup.Back er out of the hole,and try again gently.It may be a "bit" tight at first....not much Bro...it will turn by hand if it's going in right after the initial few tighter turns.Make sure the plug is ALL THE WAY pushed into the plug wrench rubber grabby piece.There is a connector about in the right aft area of the head there-you can just BEND that fastener(and connector)out of the way there to get to your center plug from the left side if you go in that way.Otherwise-when finished,make sure all plug connectors are "snapped" in the stick coils--and correctly.You'll hear and feel em click into the fitting when correct.Bend anything back where it belongs-make sure all connectors are reinstalled.DON'T yank on anything.Remember which connector goes with which coil.Take yer time.Tighten down snugly,but not too much...just snug.It'll tighten down.then just a bit more.That's all..If yer bike has been running fine,my guess is ....you won't need to replace your plugs.Pull that Right plug out and look at it.If it's tannish and clean looking-with no burning on the electrode...I'd say leave em in till you get to 24,000 miles.When you get your valves checked.If you DO end up replacing those plugs-start yer baby up at the end BEFORE reinstalling the bodywork.

Last edited by jollyroger; 05-11-2010 at 07:30 PM.
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Old 07-08-2010, 08:31 AM   #14 (permalink)
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Just did this last night. It is a lesson in patience.

If you have a temper, don't do it!

I generally followed Jolley's instructions, but didn't use a screwdriver to pry the coils out. I used my index finger, under the lip of the connector instead.

It took me about 30 minutes to do the plug replacement, including some "walk away" time....

The longest time spent was removing/replacing plastics.

Might be the placebo effect, but she feels stronger now....
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Old 07-08-2010, 05:42 PM   #15 (permalink)
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i just had the dealer do mine, wasn't that big of a deal. it was just simple to drop off and pick up and pay a bill done, don't get me wrong i wanted to do em, but maybe next time.. lmao.
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07 zx14
rear fender eliminator
d&d race pack
muzzy fan
engine ice
hpc secondary fan
puig db windshield
chrome wheels
zx14 chrome heel guards
chrome levers/chrome frame sliders
led under glow kit
ccfl headlamp halo kit/led corner bulbs/35w hid lows sargeant seat
galfer platinum brake lines
pcIII/removed secondary flies,(171hp/103 torque)
6 inch roaring toyz stretch
vortex rear sprocket/ 530 chain
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Old 11-03-2010, 02:49 PM   #16 (permalink)
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Anybody have experience with things as in they need gapping? Had them on all my bikes before and loved them. I didn't have to gap the others ones but just making sure with these.

http://www.schnitzracingstore.com/ca...showprevnext=1

I'll let you guys guys know if I notice a difference.
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Old 11-03-2010, 02:59 PM   #17 (permalink)
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I have those ones...not from Schnitz,but yeah...the same.I didn't gap mine.I think they were zx14 specific and pregapped.Working just fine.
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Old 11-03-2010, 02:59 PM   #18 (permalink)
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Well just read that the same plugs I bought are the stock replacements but no worries might as well get it over with.
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Old 11-03-2010, 03:00 PM   #19 (permalink)
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Stock replacements are perfecto IMO.Here I go again...but be real careful ya don't hit that electrode when installing.It's VERY TINY and will bend easily with a small tap.Course,you knew that
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Old 11-03-2010, 03:01 PM   #20 (permalink)
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I have those ones...not from Schnitz,but yeah...the same.I didn't gap mine.I think they were zx14 specific and pregapped.Working just fine.
Thanks jollyroger
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