HID's killing me!! Please Help!! : Kawasaki ZX Forums: Kawasaki Ninja Forum

Somefun · 09-29-2009, 04:00 PM

Guy's I bought two kits of DDM HIDs for my 14. At first I couldn't get them to work but then switched the plugs (after reading it in this forum) and got them to work. Problem is some time they work and some times they two. The left high and low beam always works but the right low and high only work when they want to. At first I thought it was the connector’s cuz if you jiggled them they would turn on. So I said screw it and cut the plugs out and soldered them. All but one plug on the low beam. So last night took it out for a ride and all worked fine. Now riding home from work low freaking low beam and no high beam. Take it apart and flick the hi lo switch back in forth and out of ten times they come on once or twice? What could be bad the ballast? Has anyone heard of this? The bike is new so there can't be any issues there....

joe23mike · 09-29-2009, 07:47 PM

try checking the fuse. i've seen in other forums that guys have increased the size of the headlight fuse.

jollyroger · 09-30-2009, 02:22 AM

This is a common problem.First off-make sure the grounds are all as they should be-all lamps coming on when the ignition fires.If not,check the ground for whichever one is not lighting.Switch the ground and see if it works.If jiggling the wire causes it to relight,then I suggest you do as you did(OR)as I did-get that plastic plug outta there first off.Then,manually push the pins down into the connector(course,you said you cut those off.You can still do this by cutting the solder points and twisting the wire so it will push into the connector).Then check again.If they're all lighting as they should,silicone the connections there and let em dry.That worked for me.Another thing you might check.The bulb housing has a "ground" metal piece on the ring.Make sure that is contacting the bulb base there(around the bulb).It should rub on the lens housing(that metal ring the bulb unit goes in on the lens itself).I also had to do as I did with the wires on the connector that actually goes to the bulb unit.Hope that helps ya!(never tried the fuse deal-maybe that would work as well?)

Somefun · 09-30-2009, 03:33 AM

Thanks for the ideas guys. I tried the fuse thing. It sounded funny to me about putting a bigger fuse in there but that’s what DDM said also. I put a 25 in place of the 15 and on the first fire up the right low beam worked and the hi didn't then I switched them off and turned the hi back on and it worked. It seems that maybe some times there might not be enough power to start the lights? But once they are on they stay on. I'll try putting a little dio grease on the ring around the bulb and see if that works. I had forgotten to say that I had also put the grease on all my connections to see if it would help and no luck. I had the bulb in my hand and was flicking the light on an off so I guess the ring doesn't ground the bulb. I'm running out of ideas. With all the connection connected with out the plugs that takes them out of the loop. Is there some sort of left and right circuit for the head lights? Cuz the left side hi and low work fine.

jollyroger · 09-30-2009, 03:46 AM

Each set-HIGH BEAMS-have to be grounded the same.Lows-grounded the same-meaning-If you get both high beams to come on-they're both correctly grounded and you should then make sure the connections cannot loosen or vibrate free.When they're actually lit-that's when you do the silicone deal-just don't touch the wires you know.Same with the lows-get em both working-"on",then silicone the connections.I didn't need to do anything with the fuse.DO NOT TOUCH THE GLASS BULB!It's too late now-but when they first come on-the first startup-they are supposed to be allowed to "burn in" for several minutes before shutting off.This "may" be part of the problem.But I also had to buy a couple more bulbs and basically replace the ones that were not "coming on consistently".That may have been why?After I got the new bulbs-I started them-and let them stay on for around 3 or 4 minutes before I shut them off and installed into the lens housing.Since then-doing the silicone deal and the replacement "burn in"-not had one problem-and that's about two months ago now.

Somefun · 09-30-2009, 04:18 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jollyroger

Each set-HIGH BEAMS-have to be grounded the same.Lows-grounded the same-meaning-If you get both high beams to come on-they're both correctly grounded and you should then make sure the connections cannot loosen or vibrate free.When they're actually lit-that's when you do the silicone deal-just don't touch the wires you know.Same with the lows-get em both working-"on",then silicone the connections.I didn't need to do anything with the fuse.DO NOT TOUCH THE GLASS BULB!It's too late now-but when they first come on-the first startup-they are supposed to be allowed to "burn in" for several minutes before shutting off.This "may" be part of the problem.But I also had to buy a couple more bulbs and basically replace the ones that were not "coming on consistently".That may have been why?After I got the new bulbs-I started them-and let them stay on for around 3 or 4 minutes before I shut them off and installed into the lens housing.Since then-doing the silicone deal and the replacement "burn in"-not had one problem-and that's about two months ago now.

I never grounded them. I just plugged them in the snap connectors which one of those plugs ground them. Did you do somthing differant? With all the wires connected with out the plugs I should be fine there. Maybe something went wrong with the bulbs cuz I didn't burn them in? I started them and only ran them for a min or so? I geuss I should buy a full set hi and low and replace them to see what happens.... its just crazy....

jollyroger · 09-30-2009, 04:52 AM

Didn't you say you soldered the wires?Or was I wrong there.If you didn't,then the wire should have that pointed straight lead at the tip.If you removed the plastic connector deal where the wires go in,then you should be able to push the wire down into the connector and see if the lamp is coming on(but don't turn the power on UNTIL you've plugged in the wire first)Do one lamp at a time.Get one going.Then go to the other side(if it's not working)and change the wires around(the black and red).When that one comes on(both will be on,then silicone while they're on).And do the high beams(or low beams)as a set.that way,you'll have one complete set working.The grounds are really not marked,mine weren't.I had to reverse the wires a couple of times before I got the right combo going.Those connectors at the bulb end-the colored ones(green,and blue)-those were not contacting enough-so I had to wiggle the wires there till they worked okay-then siliconed those.I pushed the lead into the connector-got it working,made sure it was down in there good(bent the metal contact some in the connector with an ice pick)and solid and working.

Somefun · 09-30-2009, 05:14 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jollyroger

Didn't you say you soldered the wires?Or was I wrong there.If you didn't,then the wire should have that pointed straight lead at the tip.If you removed the plastic connector deal where the wires go in,then you should be able to push the wire down into the connector and see if the lamp is coming on(but don't turn the power on UNTIL you've plugged in the wire first)Do one lamp at a time.Get one going.Then go to the other side(if it's not working)and change the wires around(the black and red).When that one comes on(both will be on,then silicone while they're on).And do the high beams(or low beams)as a set.that way,you'll have one complete set working.The grounds are really not marked,mine weren't.I had to reverse the wires a couple of times before I got the right combo going.Those connectors at the bulb end-the colored ones(green,and blue)-those were not contacting enough-so I had to wiggle the wires there till they worked okay-then siliconed those.I pushed the lead into the connector got it working,made sure it was down in there good(bent the metal contact some in the connector with an ice pick)and solid and working.

On the right side high I cut every connector and soldered them. On the low I did the same but the one plug with the red and black wires. So on the high beam I can't see what wouldn't be working unless its the balast. They come on some times but only work when they want to.. So you would think a loose connection but I have that covered. I was wondering if the red and black connection on the low beam may want some how effect the high because that is the olny plug I didn't solder. But it must be the balast..

Eugenio_SS · 09-30-2009, 04:40 PM

i say it's a flimsy connector somewhere.

jollyroger · 09-30-2009, 09:28 PM

Yep-somethin's not connecting securely.

Somefun · 10-01-2009, 03:29 AM

I replaced every connector so I can't see it being loose. But I hear you guys. Does anyone know where Kawasaki grounds the head lights? Maybe that’s loose? But I would think the ground would be the same for the left and right lights. The left high and low work fine. Hey could it be possible that I may have the straight plug (think there is two per light) switched? The only thing is I thought that you couldn't do that because the plug arrangement wouldn't allow you to make that misteak? When I had it all together and working that's when I cut the plugs and soldered them.

jollyroger · 10-01-2009, 10:16 AM

Take the right hi and low-now switch the red and black leads one at a time.Get ONE working-secure all the connections-wiggle the wires at the bulb plug(factory green or blue)and at every connection on that circuit.If it goes out-you know-that's the problem connection right there for that one.Like I said-I broke the plastic plugs{off}(on the DDM wiring)and just inserted the pointed end into the connectors.Got them lighting,then siliconed.AND I used a pointy pick to stick down in the STOCK plug at the headlamps and forced the little metal contact in there "over" some(just a tad)to really squeeze that pointed wire end in it).I worked okay after that-You'll get it!I found those DDM plugs to just not make good contact reliably.I don't know if the "ground" configuration is the same on both sides(probably is?)-but I just got it to working-then secured it.They "may"not "look loose"but the contact just may not be quite enough for it to light.BEFORE I installed back into the lens socket,I siliconed and checked AFTER I siliconed-and allowed that to set up some-then checked again to make sure they were gonna come on.When they were all working ,then I reinstalled into the lens housing.

Somefun · 10-01-2009, 10:57 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jollyroger

Take the right hi and low-now switch the red and black leads one at a time.Get ONE working-secure all the connections-wiggle the wires at the bulb plug(factory green or blue)and at every connection on that circuit.If it goes out-you know-that's the problem connection right there for that one.Like I said-I broke the plastic plugs{off}(on the DDM wiring)and just inserted the pointed end into the connectors.Got them lighting,then siliconed.AND I used a pointy pick to stick down in the STOCK plug at the headlamps and forced the little metal contact in there "over" some(just a tad)to really squeeze that pointed wire end in it).I worked okay after that-You'll get it!I found those DDM plugs to just not make good contact reliably.I don't know if the "ground" configuration is the same on both sides(probably is?)-but I just got it to working-then secured it.They "may"not "look loose"but the contact just may not be quite enough for it to light.BEFORE I installed back into the lens socket,I siliconed and checked AFTER I siliconed-and allowed that to set up some-then checked again to make sure they were gonna come on.When they were all working ,then I reinstalled into the lens housing.

Jollyroger thanks SO much for the help I really do appreciate it! The thing that I'm say though is that all the Plugs are gone and the wires are directly connected and still the high beam has a mind of its own. You can turn the Hi Lo witch ten times and they may work 7 out of the ten. But I can't figure out why with them directly connected why they don't work some times. That’s why I was thinking maybe the grounds from right the left side may be different. I'm thinking maybe bad ballast. When the light does not light if you jiggle the wires it still will not come on. Only when you switch the switch back in forth will the y come on.

jollyroger · 10-01-2009, 11:16 AM

Well Arox-ya got me stumped then on this one!!!Originally,I had Xentec in there.Was having the same problem with those.Okay,so I though as you did-maybe the ballast.So....since they were fairly inexpensive,I ordered a new set from DDM.These began to have the SAME issues-BUT.......I tried replacing the non-lighting bulbs(with the wiring connections)with the Xentec bulbs that WERE working.Amazingly,that corrected the problem-So I really don't know if it was the bulbs,or something else that it just began working fine?You'll get it(one way or another!-hang in there!)ONE of the Xentec bulbs I plugged in to the DDM circuit,when I turned the key on,that bulb IMMEDIATELY burned out(fried the electrode).It wasn't even installed yet in the socket!So perhaps those bulbs are more fragile than we may think?I wouldn't touch the glass at all when you're working with em.

juicey69 · 10-02-2009, 10:59 AM

I just installed the hi this morning with no issue,BTW also from DDM and I already had installed the low back in summer.They're working perfectly and did not change the fuse like some folks here did.

Eugenio_SS · 10-02-2009, 11:24 AM

the intermittent On/Off might be because of connecting the wire on the opposite site with some convincing.
With something small, like a screwdriver for glasses, you can take the pin out of that connector and invert the wires... allowing you to connect it well... and maybe not make the connection flimsy.
Just an idea..

If you look @ this image:

You simply remove the outer black thing, then remove the wires... put the wires back in inverted, and put the plastic thing back.

jollyroger · 10-03-2009, 03:53 PM

Yes-good pic-that's it right there.That white connector-I pryed those over towards the center each,then took that Black connector-the male one-and removed the Black plastic housing-installing the wires straight into the white connector.The old Xentech I had-in their instructions-they mentioned to "before installing,insert the wires into the plugs and get the grounds correctly configured BEFORE installing the outer Black plug cover". The DDM's don't say that in there that I noticed.I had to do the same thing at the factory connector(on the stock wiring harness) that goes to the bulb itself-that plug in there(the blue and green ones).Had to insert the single wires into the blue and green connectors.

Somefun · 10-04-2009, 06:02 AM

Thanks for the pics. I wish I thought of swapping the wire in the plug before I cut them off!! LOL

So I put a larger fuse in there even though it makes no sense to me. However the lights have been working more frequently with this change. Which makes no sense? I'm going to make the swap and invert the wires on the low beam plug as that is the only one left and hope for the best. I'm headed out this week for a 1000 mile ride and I'm tired of fooling with them. Maybe this will finally do it.....

DEK · 10-26-2009, 08:01 AM

This directly from their web site so maybe you need the relay to solve your problem.

"Use this relay harness to connect HIDs to cars with very small gauge wiring that cannot supply the initial surge current required to light the bulbs reliably. Symptoms indicating the harness is required would be intermittent starting or lights going out after being turned on for several minutes and requiring you to turn the lights off and back on for them to turn back on again."

Eugenio_SS · 10-26-2009, 11:36 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DEK

This directly from their web site so maybe you need the relay to solve your problem.

"Use this relay harness to connect HIDs to cars with very small gauge wiring that cannot supply the initial surge current required to light the bulbs reliably. Symptoms indicating the harness is required would be intermittent starting or lights going out after being turned on for several minutes and requiring you to turn the lights off and back on for them to turn back on again."

not needed on our bikes.
Those are usefull usually for foglights when harness wires are quite small.