ZX14 spark plug r & r. Is it time?

[Bikerboy4Life]

Has anyone replaced the plugs on the 14? Is it difficult, and can you direct me to any pics of the job, OR, a thread here, that details the job?

I want to do the job myself, and I haven't been able to find a thread here related to plug r&r on a 14

Also, what is a good mileage mark, to replace um ? Thanks!

[tampastockman]

This is copied from the manual for a 2006 zx14. I am not sure how much it will help. I have the whole manual in PDF format so if you have quest just ask and I will try to help. If I am reading the manual correct 7500 miles is the recommended spark plug replacement.

Spark Plug Replacement
• Remove:
Stick Coils (see Stick Coil Removal in the Electrical System
chapter)
• Remove the spark plug using the 16 mm (0.63 in.) plug
wrench [A] vertically.
PERIODIC MAINTENANCE 2-67
Maintenance Procedure
• Replace the spark plug with a new one.
Standard Spark Plug
Type: NGK CR9EIA-9
• Insert new spark plug in the plug hole, and finger-tighten
it first.
• Using the plug wrench [A] vertically, tighten the plug.
CAUTION
The insulator of the spark plug may break if when
the wrench is inclined during tightening.
Torque - Spark Plugs: 13 N·m (1.3 kgf·m, 115 in·lb)
• Install the stick coils securely. 􀅼Be sure the stick coils are installed by pulling up it lightly.

heres stick coils info

Stick Coil (Ignition Coil together with Spark Plug
Cap) Removal
• Remove:
Middle Fairings (see Middle Fairing Removal in the
Frame chapter)
• Disconnect the stick coil connectors [A].
• Pull the stick coils [b] off the spark plugs.
CAUTION
Do not pry the connector part of the coil while removing
the coil.
Stick Coil (Ignition Coil together with Spark Plug
Cap) Installation
• Apply grease to the stick coils.
• Insert the stick coils [A] as shown being careful of the coil
heads directions. 􀅼Align the lines [b] of the cylinder head cover and coil
heads.
CAUTION
Do not tap the coil head while installing the coil.
• Connect the stick coil connectors.
• Run the hoses and harness correctly (see Cable, Wire,
and Hose Routing section in Appendix chapter).
• Install the removed parts (see appropriate chapters).
16-40 ELECTRICAL SYSTEM
Ignition System
Stick Coil (Ignition Coil together with Spark Plug
Cap) Inspection
• Remove the stick coils (see Stick Coil (Ignition Coil together
with Spark Plug Cap) Removal).
• Measure the primary winding resistance [A] as follows. 􀅼Connect the hand tester between the coil terminals. 􀅼Set the tester to the × 1 􀈍 range, and read the tester.
• Measure the secondary winding resistance [b] as follows. 􀅼Connect the tester between the plug terminal and (–) coil
terminal. 􀅼Set the tester to the × 1 k􀈍 range and read the tester.
Stick Coil Winding Resistance
Primary Windings: 1.2 ∼ 1.6 􀈍
Secondary Windings: 8.5 ∼ 11.5 k􀈍
If the tester does not read as specified, replace the coil.

[jollyroger]

Gotta say this-at 20,000 miles,my plugs looked EXACTLY how they should with a correctly tuned motor.At 24,000,they were still in excellent shape.In all honesty,if you've done nothing to the mixture in your bike(having a Powercommander won't matter)-you probably don't even need to check em.But the one on the right hand side,sitting on the bike,is IMO the easiest one to check.If it looks good-there ya go!If yer looking for the "alignment"marks on the Valve cover(to orient the stick coils)fagettaboutit.The manual diagram is on page16-45,bottom picture.The pic just above that is the right side of the bike.If yer ever wondering if a plug is not firing-just reach (CAREFULLY) down and touch each header pipe.They should all be HOT!!!!(when running).Besides-I think there's a code for a malfunctioning plug anyway-in the FI error code display.

[Bikerboy4Life]

Originally Posted by jollyroger

If yer ever wondering if a plug is not firing-just reach (CAREFULLY) down and touch each header pipe.They should all be HOT!!!!(when running).Besides-I think there's a code for a malfunctioning plug anyway-in the FI error code display.

Seems like . . . . .if one plug wasn't firing, I would most definately know, by the shitty way it [would be] runnin' on three cylinders, right?

"touch each header pipe . . . . when running" ?? Do you think I'm . . . . . . nvm
Thanks buddy

[jollyroger]

You don't GRAB the pipe.And you may not notice it runnin on three cylinders-at least not for a while-the ECU has a way of compensating(so you'll get home).

[Bikerboy4Life]

Originally Posted by jollyroger

You don't GRAB the pipe.And you may not notice it runnin on three cylinders-at least not for a while-the ECU has a way of compensating(so you'll get home).

Ohhhhhhhhhhh. Ok! Had me wonderin' there, for a sec.

[jollyroger]

That's a good question though-I wonder what it WOULD feel like on 3 cylinders?

[Bikerboy4Life]

Originally Posted by jollyroger

That's a good question though-I wonder what it WOULD feel like on 3 cylinders?

I would think . . . . . juss a lil rough, and lacking power

[Bikerboy4Life]

So Jolly, was it difficult to access the plugs. . . .you know, a lot of labor, just to get prep'd to remove the plugs??

[jollyroger]

You gotta pull your midfairings off-that's the most work right there.That subframe on the left has gotta be moved out of the way.I checked BOTH outer plugs on mine-I didn't do the inner plugs.They can be reached with that stuff off.I just didn't trust at that time that I could NOT snap a plug(the inners)when retightening.I figured why chance it-the outer two looked fine.Just gotta be real careful you don't crossthread em in there.Use that plug tool in your tool kit-works really well-and install em slowly and straight in.Those inner ones will be a tight fit-you can use a large long shank flattip screwdriver to GENTLY work the stick coils up enough to grab em and pull-but be careful you don't start angling the connector there-you don't want to crack the stick coil housing.

[Bikerboy4Life]

Originally Posted by jollyroger

You gotta pull your midfairings off-that's the most work right there.That subframe on the left has gotta be moved out of the way.I checked BOTH outer plugs on mine-I didn't do the inner plugs.They can be reached with that stuff off.I just didn't trust at that time that I could NOT snap a plug(the inners)when retightening.I figured why chance it-the outer two looked fine.Just gotta be real careful you don't crossthread em in there.Use that plug tool in your tool kit-works really well-and install em slowly and straight in.Those inner ones will be a tight fit-you can use a large long shank flattip screwdriver to GENTLY work the stick coils up enough to grab em and pull-but be careful you don't start angling the connector there-you don't want to crack the stick coil housing.

thanks jr

[n2ojunkie]

Originally Posted by jollyroger

That's a good question though-I wonder what it WOULD feel like on 3 cylinders?

probably a busa


I know I'm new and no i've never been on one but it was too easy

[monty1320]

The manual says change them @ 7500 so I did. I've heard people say it took them 7 hours to change 4 plugs, or mabe that is the time allowed at the dealer? I took my flies out and changed all 4 plugs in about 3 hours. Advance auto parts was the cheapest place I found for the plugs, but they had to order them. They cost $7 each. Keep in mind the are not pr gapped for the ZX14 so you will have to gap thm yourself. Just be careful not to damage the tip! I would also recommend buying a service manual on CD. I got mine off eBay for $6 I think.