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Old 03-09-2010, 12:11 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Coolant Level, Change

I was looking at my coolant level, and when the bike was cold taking the radiator cap off, I saw no coolant. Also the overflow (the tank under the seat Im assuming) was empty. Do I just top off, or would it be a good idea to change the coolant. How do I ensure my radiator and coolant levels are good. Thanks.

-Slevn
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Old 03-09-2010, 12:20 PM   #2 (permalink)
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I'd get the fairings off and start looking for leaks. Coolant will leave a white/light green residue behind...find the source of the leaks and take care of it. Then change out the coolant completely.
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Old 03-09-2010, 03:32 PM   #3 (permalink)
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since coolant isnt 100% coolant it will evap off...... so maybe fill it with DISTILLED WATER in the rad/expansion tank and then keep an eye on it...... if you want to change it out then go that route and keep an eye on it..
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Old 03-09-2010, 03:43 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Ok, well there appears to be a very small leak, hopefully it either isn't hard to fix or well, just hopefully it isn't a major pita. Here's a pic, bettr than explination. Bike is running much better since cleaning the carbs.

Options, do I have to replace this part? Is it hard? Would some radiator stop leak be an option for a temp fix (get me at least riding it a bit and replace later). Thanks.

It looks like it's leaking right around this edge on the front side of the block.


Other side looks good.


-Slevin
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Old 03-09-2010, 06:31 PM   #5 (permalink)
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there are 2 bolts that hold the coolant pipe on the block. there are 4 o rings that seal the pipe to the block. o ring is leaking or the tube is rotted.
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Old 03-09-2010, 06:44 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Looks to me like the pipe has a pin hole in it somewhere from internal corrosion.

DO NOT under any circumstances use any kind of stop leak on the bike. It has a habit of plugging up cooling passages in the engine and radiator when used on cars. The passages are much smaller on bikes so they will get plugged up
much easier. It is much easier to replace that tube as opposed to a radiator or even worse...having to tear apart the engine to try and clean out all the crap after it starts running hot suddenly.
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Old 03-09-2010, 07:28 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by foxjohnc View Post
Looks to me like the pipe has a pin hole in it somewhere from internal corrosion.

DO NOT under any circumstances use any kind of stop leak on the bike. It has a habit of plugging up cooling passages in the engine and radiator when used on cars. The passages are much smaller on bikes so they will get plugged up
much easier. It is much easier to replace that tube as opposed to a radiator or even worse...having to tear apart the engine to try and clean out all the crap after it starts running hot suddenly.
I agree completely. I was very leary or trying stop leak stuff anyway. Well it looks like a semi minor fix. With the very small amount that is leaking, is it ok to drive and monitor the coolant level closely.

For the replacement of the part, I'm pretty mechanically inclided...got my carbs done nicely :) Does anything need to come off other than the pipe. I see that possibly the exhaust manifold may need to come off, and obv the rubber tube it feeds from, but if it's just the 4 o-rings that I could replace along with a new pipe, then I hope that resolves the issue. Thanks for the help as always. This has been a wealth of information for me.

-Slevin
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Old 03-09-2010, 07:38 PM   #8 (permalink)
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would be alot easier with the header out of the way thats for sure... just order a new pipe along with 4 o-rings , grease them up a little and pop it back in place......
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Old 03-09-2010, 08:14 PM   #9 (permalink)
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QUOTE Foxjohnc.DO NOT under any circumstances use any kind of stop leak stuff on the bike. If your radiator starts leaking, (you get a stone in your radiator) you can use coffee, yes coffiee it stop small leaks, but just to get home or the next workshop. NEVER stop leak stuff. I used coffee on my MMC Galant just to get home (200 Km). I cant find this distributor pipe on the Kawasaki page but it looks like a part of the cylinder head. But it is problebly ok to get the end tin welded in a shop.
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Old 03-09-2010, 09:22 PM   #10 (permalink)
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The coolant pipe is $80 at bike bandit-

http://www.bikebandit.com/houseofmot...-zx-11/o/m9732

I think you can get it in and out OK without removing the header. You may be able to get it repaired, depends on how rotted it really is.
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Old 03-10-2010, 06:23 AM   #11 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Slevin View Post
How do I ensure my radiator and coolant levels are good.
-Slevn
Directly from the manual:

- Fill the radiator up to the thermostat housing filter neck with coolant
(do that slowly so that it can expel air from the circuit)
- Fill the reservoir tank up to the "full" mark
- Recommended mixture: 50% soft water 50% coolant, freezing point 31 F
- Bleed the circuit using the air bleeder bolt
- Start the engine and warm it thoroughly until radiator fan turns on
- Stop the engine and wait for it to completely cool down
- Check coolant level in the reservoir and add if necessary

let me know if you need pics, I'll post them
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Old 03-10-2010, 07:39 AM   #12 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by giguen View Post
Directly from the manual:

- Fill the radiator up to the thermostat housing filter neck with coolant
(do that slowly so that it can expel air from the circuit)
- Fill the reservoir tank up to the "full" mark
- Recommended mixture: 50% soft water 50% coolant, freezing point 31 F
- Bleed the circuit using the air bleeder bolt
- Start the engine and warm it thoroughly until radiator fan turns on
- Stop the engine and wait for it to completely cool down
- Check coolant level in the reservoir and add if necessary

let me know if you need pics, I'll post them
Thank you very much for this info. I have the service manual somewhere in PDF, my laptop shut off abruptly and now I have to find it again.

-Slevin
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Old 03-10-2010, 01:45 PM   #13 (permalink)
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If you remove the header, don't forget to buy new crush gaskets before reassembling ;)
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Old 03-11-2010, 09:24 AM   #14 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by giguen View Post
- Recommended mixture: 50% soft water 50% coolant, freezing point 31 F


let me know if you need pics, I'll post them
SORRY!!!

freezing point is MINUS 31F (-31F)
not 31F!!!
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Old 03-11-2010, 09:30 AM   #15 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by giguen View Post
SORRY!!!

freezing point is MINUS 31F (-31F)
not 31F!!!
ah no you had it right the first time......

328F or 0*C or 273.15 K or 32*F or 0*C or 273.15 K
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Old 03-14-2010, 03:01 AM   #16 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by zaneyzrex View Post
ah no you had it right the first time......

328F or 0*C or 273.15 K or 32*F or 0*C or 273.15 K
ummmmm, 0C / 32F is water freezing point.
coolant (recommended) freezing point shall be -35C / -31
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Old 03-14-2010, 11:16 AM   #17 (permalink)
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Cool

Quote:
Originally Posted by giguen View Post
ummmmm, 0C / 32F is water freezing point.
coolant (recommended) freezing point shall be -35C / -31
my bad missed the COOLANT FREEZING POINT..
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Old 03-15-2010, 06:11 AM   #18 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by giguen View Post
Directly from the manual:

- Fill the radiator up to the thermostat housing filter neck with coolant
(do that slowly so that it can expel air from the circuit)
- Fill the reservoir tank up to the "full" mark
- Recommended mixture: 50% soft water 50% coolant, freezing point 31 F
- Bleed the circuit using the air bleeder bolt
- Start the engine and warm it thoroughly until radiator fan turns on
- Stop the engine and wait for it to completely cool down
- Check coolant level in the reservoir and add if necessary

let me know if you need pics, I'll post them
Do you have a picture of the air bleeder bolt? I think I know where it is I just want to be sure I am thinking of the correct one. Thanks.

-Slevin
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