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Old 10-22-2009, 05:37 PM   #1 (permalink)
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hard to start, runs and idles fine

I've got a 93D ZX11 which has become hard to start in the past couple of weeks. This seems to come out of nowwhere--I've owned it for over a year, and never had any problems, even after being involved in an accident. The only clue I might have is that I dropped it about a month ago (centerstand doesn't work so well with small rocks under it ), but it ran fine for 2 weeks after that....

When I try to start it (sometimes, not all the time), it can take up to 5 seconds of cranking for the engine to turn over. Sometimes I have to try 2 or 3 times. I've tried with and without choke, with and without throttle, hot and cold, and can't seem to find reason or rhyme. But once it starts, it runs and idles without any problems at all.....

The gas is clean, and the air breather hole isn't clogged. I took the tank off and ran from an auxiliary tank and had the same problem, so I dont think its the tank.

Battery shows 12.5/12.6 volts on rest, and drops slightly while cranking the starter. Headlights and horn work fine on battery power.

The spark plugs looked OK except for the #4 (furthest right) had a bit of oil in the plug tube,which I cleaned. I think I need a new gasket for the entire top plate there, but thats a separate issue?

Took the carbs off and drained the float bowls--gas was clean, and all bowls were full. Checked float height and all was fine, but chickened out on completely dismantling the needles and jets.

Does anybody have any suggestions? Im leaning towards battery and will check that out again this evening, maybe try jumping from a car (turned off of course) to see how that works. What kills me is that I have no problems whatsoever idling or running, only starting! On top of that, it does eventually start every time!

Thanks.
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Old 10-22-2009, 07:10 PM   #2 (permalink)
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I agree that the battery is the culprit.

Not sure what full voltage is, but someone will chime in with the specs.

My '93 C4 shows the same symptoms when the battery is even slightly down.

Cranks and runs fine once it starts.

Good luck.
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Old 10-22-2009, 08:44 PM   #3 (permalink)
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I'd take a look at valve clearances. That can throw everything out of whack. Compression test is an easy one to do after checking the valves.
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Old 10-23-2009, 03:05 AM   #4 (permalink)
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So I'm completely buggered on this one. I went out with the full intention of pulling the battery and charging it (dont have a trickle charger, but i have a programmable charger that I can set at 12v 1.4 amp), and in the meantime look at the valve clearances as well. Went out to the garage, and decided to test the voltages again, just for reference. tried to start it, gave up after 2 seconds of cranking. Turned the ignition off, then removed the gas tank and set up an auxiliary tank. Tried again, no luck after a second or two. Hooked up the voltmeter to the battery--12.8 volts on rest, 12.5 with the key on. Pushed the starter button to see how low it dropped when it cranks, and it started right up! maybe half a second of cranking--voltmeter didnt even out. Turned it off and tried again, and again, and could NOT get it to have problems starting. When cranking it, it looks like it drops somewhere in the 10ish range, then goes up to 14 running, 14.7 around 3k. So I have absolutely no freaking idea what is going on. I'll go out again in a bit. but any other ideas would be great, while i'm taking it apart (it's supposed to rain this weekend)...

Thanks again!
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Old 10-23-2009, 08:24 AM   #5 (permalink)
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still check those valves and have the battery load tested... should not drop below 10.5v over 10-15 second test... make sure it full of DISTILLED water and fully charged before test...
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Old 10-24-2009, 08:36 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Ok, next question--how to I get the engine to turn to TDC? The Kawasaki manual just says do it, Clymer's says to take off the bottom left cover (dont remember the name for it) and turn the plug, found elsewhere on the internet to put the bike in top gear and turn the back wheel. I've had no luck with any of them. How hard should it be to turn the engine around to TDC? When i was trying to turn the back wheel, the bike started rocking on its center stand, which I assume shouldnt happen.....
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Old 10-24-2009, 08:43 PM   #7 (permalink)
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left side cover or just bump it around with starter button.... remove plugs first.... DO NOT USE A ALLEN WRENCH IF YOU PULL THE COVER !!!!!
it will move with the back wheel since unless ya have a lift and can strap it down....
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Old 10-24-2009, 10:32 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Ok, thanks! I finally did manage to get it with the starter button, then close in with the back wheel (had to pull a LOT harder than I expected...). I unfortunately then realized that I have only the slightest inkling of a clue what I'm supposed to be doing from there. Which seems to be a bad idea to me, to decide that this this this and this is all wonky, then go around changing things, when I'm not 100% sure of what I'm doing--ie, how am i positive that it's at TDC. How do I know which piston (1 or 4) is tdc--measuring down the plug holes, its the same, and looking through the intakes, one was only slightly open, while the other wasnt.....). So I think I may let the battery charge a few more hours, put my bike back together, and hope that that is the problem. And have a shop do the valve clearances :(
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Old 10-25-2009, 11:45 AM   #9 (permalink)
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ok well thats a bummer but its good that you realized its beyond your ability and stopped before screwing it up... good luck and hope ya get it worked out...
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Old 10-28-2009, 07:17 AM   #10 (permalink)
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Well, to follow up, I did eventually have a look at the valve clearances, and a couple on the exhaust side were a bit on the tight side, but haven't done anything about it--am reading up more about the adjustment process, where i can get shims and for how much, etc, then will weigh it against having it done for me......

However, I charged the battery at 1.4 amps for about 4 hours, and that did the trick! I've only started the bike a few times, but the hard starting problem seems to have gone away. On an interesting side note, the battery voltages read exactly the same as before--proof that voltages don't tell the whole story. I would have liked to measure amps before and after, but my DMM only goes up to 3 amps, so wasn't able to.

Thanks again for all the help!
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