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post #1 of 10 (permalink) Old 10-12-2015, 03:36 AM Thread Starter
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Valve shims

What side does the shims goes?
The writings must face the rocker or the valve stem?I believe it's the rocker but I'm unsure.
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post #2 of 10 (permalink) Old 10-12-2015, 04:49 AM
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I don't think it matters, but putting the writing down will probably preserve it better than up where's there's a constant scrubbing during each opening/closing event. You should always measure the shims anyway rather than relying on their printed size markings.

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post #3 of 10 (permalink) Old 10-14-2015, 10:49 AM
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Originally Posted by Hammerhead View Post
I don't think it matters, but putting the writing down will probably preserve it better than up where's there's a constant scrubbing during each opening/closing event. You should always measure the shims anyway rather than relying on their printed size markings.
That's what I did. Measured each shim with a digital micrometer, then after the shims were all installed, I rechecked the clearance, TWICE. They were a bit on the sloppy side, but the bike seems to like it better that way.
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post #4 of 10 (permalink) Old 10-14-2015, 12:23 PM
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Due to the fact that clearances most often get smaller with time and mileage, it's best to set them as far as possible towards the big end of the tolerance range.

I know a guy who grinds his shims (big no-no) and sets his clearances to the absolute minimum with the thought that he gets max lift and performance for his trouble. Personally, I think he's insane.

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post #5 of 10 (permalink) Old 06-17-2017, 01:20 PM
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hammerhead can you explain your comment above a little bit? I adjusted my valve clearances several thousand miles ago. Long story short the bike sat for over a year. I had to clean carbs to get it running again. I was having some richness problems etc so I rechecked my valve clearances. Some need to be adjusted I believe. For example my exhaust valves on cylinder 1 are currently 2.35mm, but I used a feeler gauge and it looks like I need an increase to 2.45mm. Is leaving the current shim at 2.35mm on the big end of tolerance range?????

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post #6 of 10 (permalink) Old 06-18-2017, 09:40 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FreikDog View Post
hammerhead can you explain your comment above a little bit? I adjusted my valve clearances several thousand miles ago. Long story short the bike sat for over a year. I had to clean carbs to get it running again. I was having some richness problems etc so I rechecked my valve clearances. Some need to be adjusted I believe. For example my exhaust valves on cylinder 1 are currently 2.35mm, but I used a feeler gauge and it looks like I need an increase to 2.45mm. Is leaving the current shim at 2.35mm on the big end of tolerance range?????

Who knows without what your feeler gauge measurements are . The shims are in .002 increments .
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post #7 of 10 (permalink) Old 06-18-2017, 05:54 PM
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Originally Posted by FreikDog View Post
hammerhead can you explain your comment above a little bit? I adjusted my valve clearances several thousand miles ago. Long story short the bike sat for over a year. I had to clean carbs to get it running again. I was having some richness problems etc so I rechecked my valve clearances. Some need to be adjusted I believe. For example my exhaust valves on cylinder 1 are currently 2.35mm, but I used a feeler gauge and it looks like I need an increase to 2.45mm. Is leaving the current shim at 2.35mm on the big end of tolerance range?????
When something sits for a year, things can get gooed up and you can be fooled taking a valve clearance measurement. The first thing to do is to fire is up, make sure there's no leaks, change the oil and THEN run it a bit more before you check clearances.

If none of this is relevant, the clearances still are what they are and still need to be within spec. They most often get smaller rather than larger, and moreso on the exhaust side (normally) due to the hammering of the valve against it's seat. Plenty of lube at the top and little wear on the followers and rocker pads on a ZX-11.

Some clearance can come from wear of the rocker shafts and bores, but again, plenty of lube there and wear would take many miles of use (or less miles of abuse).

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Last edited by Hammerhead; 06-18-2017 at 05:58 PM.
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post #8 of 10 (permalink) Old 06-18-2017, 07:22 PM
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Quote:
Is leaving the current shim at 2.35mm on the big end of tolerance range?????
If the manufacturers valve clearance spec is .18mm to .23mm, then .23mm would be at the big end of tolerances. My bike clacks like hell when she is warming up, but once she warms up its all good.

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Last edited by Blainethemono; 06-18-2017 at 07:26 PM.
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post #9 of 10 (permalink) Old 06-18-2017, 08:36 PM
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the manual I have is saying spec is between .13mm to .18mm. I had all my original paperwork with the size of the shims for each cylinder that I had to change to when I did my first valve clearance check, and adjust. When I checked them recently my feeler gauge was allowing a tolerance of up to .18mm on most valves. Going up to the next range that started at .19mm was very had to get to slide between the cam, and shim along with some I could not even begin to. So, I believe my valves are good for now I will have to recheck after I get it running good first. I did have it running good at one point enough to take it on a ride, but that was short lived. At this point I think I am going to do a complete carb tear down again, along with a rebuild being orings, float valve, good cleaning again also. Maybe even a ultrasonic if I can find a shop nearby that can do it in house maybe. Thanks for all the insight so far. I hope to stick with this issue, conquer it, and learn something for the future which is always a goal on any of my vehicles except my 2016 Silverado which the dealer can take care of for now. Hope to report back with progress soon!

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post #10 of 10 (permalink) Old 06-19-2017, 03:33 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hammerhead View Post
Due to the fact that clearances most often get smaller with time and mileage, it's best to set them as far as possible towards the big end of the tolerance range.

I know a guy who grinds his shims (big no-no) and sets his clearances to the absolute minimum with the thought that he gets max lift and performance for his trouble. Personally, I think he's insane.

Yea, I would agree... not the best idea..lol.. Just to be clear so there are no misunderstandings, what Hammerhead is saying is it is better towards the loose end of the spec range... it is better for the valve to be a bit loose than a bit tight.. especially on the exhaust valve.. I shoot for the loose end of the spec on exhaust and middle of range on intake.. if you measure your clearance and take all the shims and mark what hole for everything, you can take the whole package to most shops and they will measure and help you get the right shim set up.. that is what I used to do when I first started... you can buy shim kits now pretty cheap.. I think around $80 or so... worth having for sure. And there are several online printed sheets that help keep track of what shim/clearance goes where...

https://www.zzr-international.co.uk/...p?f=13&t=14667 this is a template to help keep track of what goes where...

http://www.dansmc.com/valveclearence.htm this is a table that helps determine what shim... you can google valve shim table or template and find lot of these on line...

good luck

Johnny
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