How difficult would it be to replace the seals and bushings on my 1993 ZX 11 D1?

[battlecat]

I do have a workshop manual and most parts of the job don't look too bad...except disassembly of the fork leg, installation of the seals/bushings and filling with proper amount of oil seems to require special tools (there is a special "T-handle", together with an attached hex wrench to remove the Allen bolt. There's also a "fork tube outer weight" to separate the outer and inner fork tubes. There's a "fork oil seal driver" needed to install the seals. I'm not sure how hard it would be to install the bushings. There's also a special "fork oil level gauge" needed to add the oil). My question is this: Can a home mechanic do this job? If so, how do you get by without the "special tools"? My local shops estimates $300 to do the whole job themselves....they will give me a discount for removing the fork legs from the bike (I know I can handle that part of the job, but I'd like to be able to complete the entire job by myself if possible). Can anybody share some tips?

[chadzx11]

Never done it. Its on my list of things to do.

http://www.motorcyclecruiser.com/tec...als/index.html

[Richter]

I just finished doing mine on my "C". Wasn't too tough, but was very messy. You will need solvent to clean all parts before reassembly. (I used my laundry room deep sink, and to my wives dismay stained it permanently) I didn't need the weight to separate the tubes, not sure if it's different on the "D" but I was able to remove the spring retainer and jerk the outer tube downward a few times and the bushing and seal both popped out. The seal driver may have come in handy. I went to lowes and tried to find a pipe that had the right ID dimension to drive the bushing, but all I could find that was close was a PVC internal splice fitting. It worked, but left a few plastic shavings in the seal well that I had to fish out before tapping in the seal. If you could find a metal pipe that fit, it would save you the cost of the special tool. You don't need the oil level gauge if you have an accurate ruler. All you are doing is measuring from the top of the tube to the surface of the oil. Just lower the ruler past the specified amount an additional inch, so you can see the level on the ruler, then subrtact the inch to get your level. There is a tool to hold the innards from rotating while you tighten the fork tube screw at the bottom, which you shouldn't need if you have an impact driver or you remove the screw before removing the main spring and top cap. It took me 3 hours to complete, now that I have done it, it would probably take me 1. Not too bad, just make sure you keep everything clean!