Clutch problem!!!!!

[ZXtreme93]

I just put new cluth plates & ebc springs in my 93 c4. The clutch will not disengage with the lever pulled. During the process, the clutch lever was pulled while the plates & springs were out. What problem could that cause if any? I have bled the clutch & verified the slave cylinder was reinstalled properly after the front spocket change was made. Has anybody experienced this or have any ideas what the problem could be?

Thanks tiny

[Claude]

Have you tried to adjust your lever to the farther from the grip position? (never remember if it is #1 or #4 position...).

Or maybe your clutch lever is bent?

Beside those above, my bet your be air still trapped in the system.

[ZX11Forever]

I experianced the same thing during a front sprocket change. it took me almost three hours to get the air out of the system. I took some clear tubing and litterally sucked on the bleed screw to remove air pockets trapped in the system, Im sure there's an eaiser way to do this, but it worked for me.

[ninja11zx]

still air trapped in the line. they are a bitch to bleed. bleed the line first at the master cylinder. pump the clutch lever a few times and break the clutch line loose at the master cylinder. air always gets trapped there.

[Kawi_T]

Also, did you pump the clutch lever at all when the clutch was apart? I did when I had mine apart and it causes a world of problems. The piston in the slave moves out but never goes back in (does that make sense?). I had to open the bleeder screw and push the piston all the way back till it bottomed out. Ideally I think you should zip tie the lever to the bars then do the whole job then cut the tie when you're done.

[ZXtreme93]

I have bled the system more times than one man could ever bleed a system in a life time. When the lever is pulled the wheel is very difficult to turn, but gets easier as you continue to turn it (on a rear stand). I soaked the clutches in oil (20w50 amsoil) before installing them. It seemed really sticky & thick as I put them in, could the fact that the oil is not hot & the clutches have never been cycled play a factor in my concern?

Thanks Tiny

[Hammerhead]

Chances are you still have some air in the system. A Mityvac would go a long way toward making hydraulic bleeding jobs easier and quicker.

[ZXtreme93]

Well the saga continues! Took it for a test ride & the clutch seems to disengage & shift ok, but now the clutch slips around 6k rpm when I roll on the thottle pretty decent. Could air in the line cause this problem also?

[Hammerhead]

No, but improper play adjustment could. If you open the bleeder slightly and fluid pours out, there is pressure in the line when there shouldn't be. When you replaced the friction plates, did you check the metal plates for warpage and distortion? Also, did you check the ears on the clutch basket for burring and wear? Either of these issues could lead to improper clutch actuation. If the metal plates (or even one plate) are distorted, the clutch pack will not completely engage. If there are burrs or excess wear on the basket where the plates slide, this could cause probs also. I always check the simple things first.